[BIGNUTT]

Okay, until yesterday I always thought the pinch seam or welds were right at the last little lip on the actual fender (always see people leave it after trimming). Well I was wrong those little circular stamps or welds are way down where the holes are in the fender. So I am wondering if I want to just keep that last little lip on the fender will I have to cut little strips upwards between the pinch welds and fold them inward? Or is there another weld further up holding the sheet metal together?

[Mtxz453]

well when I trimmed my fenders i tried cutting little strips and folding them inward but it came out really messey, so what i did is i cut the fenders to where i needed them with a saw zaw and to make sure it didnt rust and rot out, i went over it with black cauke and smoothed it out. once it was dry i went over it with a little touch up paint and they looked great. So far it has worked fine, no rusting and not messey bending.

[BIGNUTT]

Originally Posted by Mtxz453

well when I trimmed my fenders i tried cutting little strips and folding them inward but it came out really messey, so what i did is i cut the fenders to where i needed them with a saw zaw and to make sure it didnt rust and rot out, i went over it with black cauke and smoothed it out. once it was dry i went over it with a little touch up paint and they looked great. So far it has worked fine, no rusting and not messey bending.

But you still bent them inward right? I mean if you saw past those little welds it will have to be rewelded together and the welds are even with those holes, which yu got to go past them, uggh.

[fryed_1]

I cut past mine and haven't had any problems. Except by the rear doors (4dr) I cut almost to the line of the door, and cut about 3-4" out of the rest. That was a while ago and I haven't seen any problems...


Then again, I'm not really about "looks" on mine either...

[joshbish]

yeah, I cut past the welds in the rear on mine because I didn't really know any better --- I had a saw in my hand and I just didn't know how to stop myself. Powertools, woohoo! After I was done I looked at my work and could see straight up into the cab --- haha. I used some of that truck trailer tape used for making repairs. I just pulled the two pieces of sheet metal together and taped it up long-ways. The tape is made with very aggressive adhesive and it's been on for almost a year I guess, and it's never come off even with the weather and mud. I'll take a pic when I get home.

edit: I just looked up that stuff online and it's like $80 a roll for the 4" stuff. So, that might not be a good option. I guess that's one of the good things about having a family in the trucking business --- cool stuff laying around.

[xjrrrdx]

Kind of hard to see but I did the cut and fold technique and it turned out nice and smooth. My only recomendation is take your time or the paint will chip and peel.

[Moose_God]

Originally Posted by Mtxz453

well when I trimmed my fenders i tried cutting little strips and folding them inward but it came out really messey, so what i did is i cut the fenders to where i needed them with a saw zaw and to make sure it didnt rust and rot out, i went over it with black cauke and smoothed it out. once it was dry i went over it with a little touch up paint and they looked great. So far it has worked fine, no rusting and not messey bending.

Dude, you said "black caulk."
I need to quit watching Beavis and Butthead.

I used the "cut a bunch of slits and fold" method on my rear fenders. It chipped the hell out of my paint. I think I'm going to trim up the rear flares and put them back on. Either that or Herculiner the little bit of a flare that's left to cover up the chipping.

[BIGNUTT]

Looks like my only real option is the cut and fold. I keep hearing hoe the paint chips when you fold the metal under the fenderwell, is there anyway t okeep this from happening? Will I need a rubber malot or can it b done slowly by hand (with gloves)? I have a couple bottle of touchup paint, I just don't want this to turn into a mess.

I am more worried about cutting the smae amount up into the Jeep so when I fold the metal its all even.

[GottaBeJeep]

http://www.rocklizardfabrications.com/fender_trimming.htm

Don't do the cut and fold method. It is not necessary, plus it causes the paint to chip off and the rear panel gets all warped and just looks like crap. I have trimmed a lot of XJ's and have never had to cut past the pinch welds or do the cut and fold for anything smaller than 35" tires. Trim right up to the pinch welds, and bumpstop properly, you can do 35" tries on 5" of lift without doing a hack job to your rear end. The only time my rear was cut and fold was to fit 37's on 6" of lift, and if I could do it again, I would have put near pinch welds above the factory ones, then trimmmed right up to the new welds, and still would not have done the cut and fold.

If you like the appearance of your XJ and don't want to see a wavy rear panel or the wheel well to look like a hack job by a five your old, don't do the cut and fold.

[Matt Gertsch]

Has anyone ever cut past the pinch weld then gone back in and put new pinch welds in?

[BIGNUTT]

Originally Posted by GottaBeJeep

http://www.rocklizardfabrications.com/fender_trimming.htm

Don't do the cut and fold method. It is not necessary, plus it causes the paint to chip off and the rear panel gets all warped and just looks like crap. I have trimmed a lot of XJ's and have never had to cut past the pinch welds or do the cut and fold for anything smaller than 35" tires. Trim right up to the pinch welds, and bumpstop properly, you can do 35" tries on 5" of lift without doing a hack job to your rear end. The only time my rear was cut and fold was to fit 37's on 6" of lift, and if I could do it again, I would have put near pinch welds above the factory ones, then trimmmed right up to the new welds, and still would not have done the cut and fold.

If you like the appearance of your XJ and don't want to see a wavy rear panel or the wheel well to look like a hack job by a five your old, don't do the cut and fold.

But I don't want the holes showing. The welds are even with the fender bracket holes and I want them gone. I just want to leave the one little lip left.

So its risk bending the fender inward or having the ugly holes showing, I'll takemy chances.

Just noticed you used something to cover the holes? I don't know I don't want black trim around my fenders and I've seen some good cut and fold fenders.

[BIGNUTT]

Originally Posted by mgertsch

Has anyone ever cut past the pinch weld then gone back in and put new pinch welds in?

Yes people have and?

[GottaBeJeep]

Yep, used a 5/8" trim to cover the holes. Just thought I would give you an option before risking making the fenders look bad, since it appears you want it to look good. Just something to think about...you can always cut off more later, but you can't put it back on if you screw it up.


AS for going back an rewelding after cutting past the pinch welds, trust me, like I said in my earlier post, it is easier to put in new pinch welds above the old ones before cutting, because once you cut past the pinch welds, the whole thing pops apart, then you have ot clamp and weld and just way to much work when it could be done right the first time. I like the mottos "Work smarter, not harder" and "Don't bite off more than you can chew", especially when it comes to trimming fenders.

[Mtxz453]

haha yea sorry about that i butcher the spelling of words.. but i cut past the spot welds because i made the mistake of cutting them with a saw zaw and you dont really have to much control over that thing. But they did come out nice just a little bigger than i anticipated. But like i said i used a litle caulk and touch up paint and i've had no sign of rust.

on the one side i started bending but all the paint chipped and it came out wavy, not even at all it was real ugly, so i turned on the saw zaw and went to work.