Im running 33s with about a 4 inch an havent cut my fenders yet. Could i just cut along the top of the stock fender flares and just follow that line? Is that too much to cut off?
I'm running 33"s, on a 4" lift.
I kept the flares, raising the fronts up to the crease line. After locating them to the new location, mark and cut away the fender beneath. Try to keep as much of the inner plastic liner as possible, making sure the gap between the fender and door is covered to prevent mud from entering the hinge area. If you totally remove the liner, fill the door gap with something like a pool noddle, glued in place.
2001 Sport, 4" lift, 33 X 10.50 KOs, R.E. DB, R.E.-UCA, JKS-LCA, ACOS, 8.25-4.56-TruTrac, SYE, D-30 E-locker w/alloy shafts, Hidden M8000 winch, Vanco front and ZJ rear disc brakes, Lots of armor, Towing baseplate. http://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/c...7603770130683/
Im running 33s with about a 4 inch an havent cut my fenders yet. Could i just cut along the top of the stock fenderflares and just follow that line? Ir is that too much to cut off? Thanks in adavance
In the front, if you roughly follow the outer edge of the fender flare (you can see the line when you've removed the flares) you've basically got enough room for 35s. I'd cut it along that line for 33s as well.
In the rear, do the cut 'n fold. Same thing, works up to 35s. Do NOT cut the lip off completely, or you'll separate the inner and outer fender from each other. Only cut up to pinchwelds - no higher - then fold the metal strips up inside the wheelwell. If you live in the salt belt, I suggest using plenty of rubbery undercoat to cover the folded pieces inside the rear wheelwell.
If you cut there you'll be far above the rear cut and fold line in the rear. For practicalities/flex sake, its a good place to trim and at 4" you'll get a LOT of front up travel out of it up front. However the rear will be your weak point due to the pinch welds. If you can cut the rear and extend the opening/wheel wells you'll be in very good shape.
Timo says you'll have clearance for 35s, but in my experience you could easily clear 37s or more. You won't have as much up travel, but with proper bumpstopping you'll get good down travel and droop. The rear is your real weak point if you're not capable of welding or cutting past the pinch welds, extending the rear wheel well and having it welded properly.
I run 33s on 2" and with trimming that you're asking about I probably would get the same performance you're getting now out of 4" and 33s.
@ 4" lift you don't have room for larger than 35s anyway without doing some sheetmetal work - or you'll need a lot of bumpstopping and it leaves you with very limited amount of uptravel. Even 35s is a bit tight fit with about 2-3" bumpstopping.
However, cut 'n fold rear + front trimmed to flare outer edge leavys you with good clearance for 33s. Whack in the pinchweld seam at the back of front wheelwell if you already haven't..