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Track Bar Bolt

412 views 3 replies 3 participants last post by  RLE 
#1 ·
Hi,

I replaced my track bar thinking that would solve the DW as I did a steering check and there was play on the frame end of the TB.

I re torqued all the TRE, etc after 100mi. I'm still having problems. I did find that driver wheel TRE was infact not tight.

sadly, I didn't know to inspect the axle bolt holes to see if they are wallowed out. So I plan on doing another steering check as soon as I can have someone clock the wheel for me. I do here a small clank when I rock the steering back and forth at a red light, hope to learn the source.

I live in an LA apartment with street parking, not the easiest situation to work the Jeep or else I'd already be wrenching.

I understand 2 options, weld washers onto the bracket or drill 9/16" holes and use a bigger bolt. Welding is not really an option, atm.

My question: Do I need to take the track bar to a shop with a press and have them press out the old bushing sleeve and install a larger one to accommodate the 9/16" bolt? (would that mean I'd have to find a bushing that can also fit the sleeve?) If so does anyone have part #'s? I am aware of Clayton's and Kevin's bolts, but specifically bushing and sleeve that fit moog oe tb replacement.

If I find that the holes aren't wallowed out, then what? I guess I have to do the steering check again first and see.

any insights appreciate.
 
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#2 ·
Hi,

So I plan on doing another steering check as soon as I can have someone clock
the wheel for me. I do here a small clank when I rock the steering back and forth
at a red light, hope to learn the source.
You're right to do the steering check first. Look to see if the track bar is moving
at the axle side bolt. Make sure the bolt is tight.

The noise could also be something else : Check all 6 bolts that hold the track
bar mounting bracket to the frame. If those aren't tight, the bracket can
slide back and forth, so look for that in your steering check..

It could also be a control arm bushing that isn't tightened down, or is
severely worn. Watch all 8 of those during the steering check.

Also, sometimes the steering box can move if a bolt is loose or if the frame
in that area is cracked.

You could also check the ball joints for play.
 
#3 ·
Definitely do the steering check first. If the axle side track bar bolt hole is wallowed out, you will see the track bar bolt moving in relation to the axle. The bracket is worth checking, but there is only 4 bolts that hold it in, so don't go crazy looking for 6 as mentioned above. Also check all the TRE's in the steering. Put your hand (in a safe place) on the drag link, tie rod, and track bar as the steering wheel is being turned b back in forth. If the popping you hear should show itself pretty quickly if one of those is the issue, you will feel it more in one of the links than the other. Do this with the vehicle running but in park, it will make turning the steering wheel much easier. Track down the issue, then we can help you with a solution.

If it is in fact the track bar bolt on the axle side, it would probably be quicker and easier to have a washer welded on than to have the bushing pushed out and replaced as well as a new bolt. A shop with a press should also have a welder, I did mine in about 10 minutes.
 
#4 ·
The bracket is worth checking, but there is only 4 bolts that hold it
in, so don't go crazy looking for 6 as mentioned above.
I freely admit that I am crazy. Among the contributing factors would
be the woes I've had with the track bar on this Jeep.

When I count 6, I include the 2 nuts (18mm) in the wheel well,
the 2 bolts (18mm head) that screw vertically into the little L-shaped
brace above the bracket, and the 2 bolts (13mm head) that screw
horizontally to hold that brace into the frame rail. If any of those
are loose, the bracket can move or go pop.
 
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