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Unread 04-23-2012, 10:05 AM   #1
XJH-007
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TnT to IRO Long Arms

Well, it's nearing summer time again...the sleds are tucked away and it's time for XJ Upgrades. Ever since I sold my 92xj with the TnT Y-link I've been itching to get a new LA kit for the 00 XJ. After much research I decided to give the IRO Critical Path a shot. I cast aside the single 10mm upper bolt issue as that was the only CON I could find to the system. All my buddies followed me in my TnT YLink path so I have large shoes to fill.

After installing 3 TnT kits, and putting many miles on my TnT Ylink and dealing with small but tedious issues with it I decided to go the less expensive, easy install, and highly acclaimed IRO route.

Ordered it Saturday!

I'll miss the stout Belly-Skid, but I never once touched it on anything. I won't miss the HASSLE of removing the front driveshaft or changing fluids with the belly skid.

Pro's and Cons.......I'm excited to run something different against my jeep bro's


Here's to no backorders.

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Unread 04-23-2012, 10:10 AM   #2
alexrule123
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I've been running my IRO long arms for probably about a year now without any issues. I've bent my Dana 30, snapped shocks and broken leaf springs but the long arms have held up. The only complaint I have is that the rubber bushing for the driver side upper control arm likes to wear out. If mine wears out gain I will just go with the currie kit that replaces that bushing with a JJ.
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Unread 04-23-2012, 10:12 AM   #3
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Not looking to start an argument but the one con you cast aside is the major reason why some people including myself will not run that kit. If that bolt fails its going to get serious real quick ........my 2 cents.
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Unread 04-23-2012, 10:48 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitexj98
Not looking to start an argument but the one con you cast aside is the major reason why some people including myself will not run that kit. If that bolt fails its going to get serious real quick ........my 2 cents.
IF it fails, yes, but so far it has not.
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Unread 04-23-2012, 10:55 AM   #5
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Yeah Alex I can see that. It's not my DD so Even if I have to replace that bushing every 10,000 miles that's still only once ever 5yrs. Changing that bushing will be easier then pulling the front DS with the Tnt Skid.

whitexj98, that is to this day the only possible con to the kit. I figure the most stress on it will be wheeling where pinion dive won't be as detrimental IF it were to fail. Keep an extra on hand and go from there.
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I have an addiction.....
*00' XJ_T-n-T Y-Link/6" RE_OME's_33" KM2's
Tera 4:1 / 4:56's_Elec. Locked D44
**84' CJ7 4"BDS 33's
***02 WJ Overland
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Unread 04-23-2012, 10:55 AM   #6
Timo_90xj
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I agree on the single 10mm bolt - I myself would not trust it.

Good thing about bolt-on kits is that you can modify them if you happen to have a welder. The IRO upper mounting system looks a bit scary anyways, I'd change the upper mount to use a Johnny joint or something similar with much larger fasteners (prefarrably 14mm, the same size lowers use).

Quote:
Originally Posted by XJH-007 View Post
whitexj98, that is to this day the only possible con to the kit. I figure the most stress on it will be wheeling where pinion dive won't be as detrimental IF it were to fail. Keep an extra on hand and go from there.
If it breaks at the worst possible way, you're looking at possibly snapping brakeline(s), destroying front DS, ripping the downpipe and possibly bending some other stuff from the front axle rotating excessively. It all depends into wich direction and how fast it'd do it of couse. I don't see anything fundamentally wrong with 3- link designs or radius arms that use only one upper arm, but I'd sure want to have a bit more security on that one single bolt.
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Unread 04-23-2012, 10:58 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
I agree on the single 10mm bolt - I myself would not trust it.

Good thing about bolt-on kits is that you can modify them if you happen to have a welder. The IRO upper mounting system looks a bit scary anyways, I'd change the upper mount to use a Johnny joint or something similar with much larger fasteners (prefarrably 14mm, the same size lowers use).
I've thought about that too, maybe use a larger diameter sleeve on the bushing and use a bigger bolt....I will have to play with it when I get it.

I don't think you'd want to use a JJ there, it would be a direct connect from the axle to unibody...uhhhg..talk about road noise.
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Unread 04-23-2012, 10:59 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XJH-007
Yeah Alex I can see that. It's not my DD so Even if I have to replace that bushing every 10,000 miles that's still only once ever 5yrs. Changing that bushing will be easier then pulling the front DS with the Tnt Skid.

whitexj98, that is to this day the only possible con to the kit. I figure the most stress on it will be wheeling where pinion dive won't be as detrimental IF it were to fail. Keep an extra on hand and go from there.
I've only had to change the 11 year old bushing once in the 20,000 miles I've driven with the long arms installed. The bushing in the Hp 30 off a '91 was already trashed so I don't count that.
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Unread 04-23-2012, 11:10 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XJH-007 View Post
I don't think you'd want to use a JJ there, it would be a direct connect from the axle to unibody...uhhhg..talk about road noise.
True, I was just thinking since it's not your DD that you didn't mind the slightly increased NVH. I've always said, on a trail Jeep use flex joints on all ends, purely road use it's rubber/ rubber, road and wheeling it's rubber/ flex joints. Jeeps only need poly bushings on the trackbars
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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

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Unread 04-23-2012, 08:44 PM   #10
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I seriously checked the date of the thread for April 1st.

Quote:
Originally Posted by XJH-007 View Post
I cast aside the single 10mm upper bolt issue as that was the only CON I could find to the system.
Oh, now I get it. You bought the kit to try and break it. Well played, sir. Well played.



Quote:
Originally Posted by alexrule123 View Post
IF it fails, yes, but so far it has not.
That's the best part about wheeling, wonder when the suspension I chose and installed on my Jeep is going to catastrophically fail...
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Unread 04-23-2012, 10:25 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by dcorn View Post
That's the best part about wheeling, wonder when the suspension I chose and installed on my Jeep is going to catastrophically fail...
It adds to the excitement!
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Unread 04-23-2012, 11:06 PM   #12
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You never once have hit your belly skid on anything?


I bet I know what you will hit the first day out!
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Unread 04-24-2012, 08:46 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by dcorn View Post
I seriously checked the date of the thread for April 1st.



Oh, now I get it. You bought the kit to try and break it. Well played, sir. Well played.





That's the best part about wheeling, wonder when the suspension I chose and installed on my Jeep is going to catastrophically fail...
LOL

Yeah, I totally jinxed myself now. I did this trail (Iron Chest) 2 times last summer and never so much as endangered the belly. This isn't my vid, but it gives you an idea on the trail. There's a half miles section like this...

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Unread 04-26-2012, 08:53 AM   #14
dcorn
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I'd find something to put on the belly. I modified my TnT (non-longarm) belly pan to fit with my Poly Performance 3-link. I've definitely landed on that thing a few times, its all scraped up.
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Unread 04-28-2012, 08:04 PM   #15
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i've got a stupid question about the iro long arm kit for an xj, maybe you guys can shed some light for me. what would be different for the crossmember if it has the puegot tranny as opposed to the aw4/ax15? im curious to know for the simple fact that i have a 4.3 chevy mated to a 700r4, and the transmission mount is located about 3" forward compared to the aw4/ax15 mount. it basically fell in the middle of the two crossmember positions under the jeep. so since im going to purchase the kit, should i order the kit with the puegot trans or aw4/ax15 trans? hopefully this makes sense to someone here
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