[EricsXJ]

Thanks Heavy. I might end up doing it that way.

Originally Posted by CarrLF

I gotta question for you if you dont mind answering it. Just about to put my T&T frame stiffners on and pondering on my lift. I see you went with T&T and I was curious in your opinion is it much more superior than rubicon express long arm lift. Im doing the math and I can get the RE with shocks to my door for around 2000, the T&T kit will cost more like 3000 with shocks and shipping, so is it worth it? Also do you think the frame stiffners will cause a problem with a RE long arm install, since you added 3/16 of metal onto the unibody frame? I am going to do the temper mental plates like you did, and i am wondering about puttin the JKS steering brace system on or should I stick with like the CROK plates or what? I know this is an area I need to beef up. Not trying to hijack your build thread, just wanting your opinion since you been doing this for a while, and hell you gotta book. Sounds like a DR. in XJologoy to me.

As far as the T&T kit being "superior" than RE, honestly I couldn't tell you since I have never personally had their long-arm kit. But I have used RE kits in the past so I do have some opinions. First of all the T&T kit has the most clearance of ANY long-arm kit out there BAR NONE. That and I was very impressed with the belly pan. I remember when RE first came out with their LA kit and from the pictures I saw, I really did not like the "wings" that they used on the sides to help support the belly pan. They probably will interfere with many of the bolt-on rock rails and I don't even know if having the frames plated affects how those things mount. Obviously those wings wouldn't work on my setup after cutting out the rockers and pinch seam. You'll need to do some research on that. Also one concern is the wall thickness used in the control arms. I don't have the specs on hand, but I believe T&T arms are thicker than RE's. RE control arms are generally not thought of as "weak" but they can be bent. I have never heard of a T&T arm being bent.

So far I am pleased with the T&T long-arms save the few quality control issues I had with the parts they sent me. I was a little dissapointed in that regard. I should not have had to drill out the control arm holes in the belly pan because the holes didn't line up. Anyway, time will tell on if I like the geometry and joints / bushings they use.

The C-Rok plate is very nice and I am happy with it. If you can weld, the JKS becomes another option and I believe either one is good.

Hope that helps you out.

Edit: one other option for the steering reinforcement is since you are using the TMR plates, you could just fab up your own steering plates to cover that area and weld it in just like the other frame plating you are doing. The disadvantage is you don't have any inner-frame bracer or crush-sleeves but if your frame isn't cracked in that area now you will probably be okay. Maybe C-Rok can sell you the inner brace by itself??? I am not using the inner brace on mine.

[Jason, aka: Jeepin.com]

Originally Posted by EricsXJ

Also one concern is the wall thickness used in the control arms. I don't have the specs on hand, but I believe T&T arms are thicker than RE's. RE control arms are generally not thought of as "weak" but they can be bent. I have never heard of a T&T arm being bent.

While I still prefer T&T's over RE's, the RE long-arms are 2" x 1/4" wall 4130 chromoly. T&T's are 1.75" x 1/4" wall 1026 DOM.

Originally Posted by EricsXJ

The disadvantage is you don't have any inner-frame bracer or crush-sleeves but if your frame isn't cracked in that area now you will probably be okay. Maybe C-Rok can sell you the inner brace by itself??? I am not using the inner brace on mine.

FWIW, I know that T&T's inner frame brace is available separately.

[EricsXJ]

Originally Posted by Jason, aka: Jeepin.com

While I still prefer T&T's over RE's, the RE long-arms are 2" x 1/4" wall 4130 chromoly. T&T's are 1.75" x 1/4" wall 1026 DOM.

Jason, are the RE long-arms thicker than the RE short-arms? I was assuming they were made of the same material but I don't think the short arms were 2" diameter and they didn't "feel" very thick (like 1/4 wall). If their long arms are thicker, then that was a bad assumption on my part.

[Jason, aka: Jeepin.com]

Yeah, there's a big difference in size btwn the material they use for their short arms and for their long arms.

This is the only shot I've got that kinda sorta illustrates the size difference... the tubing on the SuperFlex adjustable end at the crossmember, that's the same size as what's used on the lower arms I think. The rest is the regular size for their long-arms.



RE long-arms vs short arms

[familyxj]

Sweet write up. I need to work a lot more OT and keep putting $ in the bank so I can do this to my 98 XJ. Have you noticed a difference in the ride from your RE to your T&T kit?

[EricsXJ]

Got a small update for you.

Its been hot weather here recently so I took the fronts off.



As you can see I worked up a solution for side mirrors. In Sharpie's write-up he mentioned he found some at Autozone that worked for him, so I was on the lookout for something similar. I found these at a local PepBoys for $16 each I think it was.



You just don't use the included clamp, and instead just find an appropriate sized bolt and bolt them on to the hinge holes. No modifications required other than I painted them black to get rid of the bling.





What sucks about driving doorless is you lose the speakers. The exhaust is a lot louder too so no more radio while driving... hmm....

[dcorn]

Damnit, I need to do this. I wanna see what its like not having doors. Any trouble with the po-po??

Originally Posted by EricsXJ

What sucks about driving doorless is you lose the speakers. The exhaust is a lot louder too so no more radio while driving... hmm....

Sounds like its time for some kick panel pods. I dunno about yours, but my rear ceiling speakers are better than my fronts, so I'll still have plenty of tunes with no doors. My exhaust is stock as well.

[ddeadserious]

In regard to your music dilemma, here's my solution:


I actually have about 75% of the sound faded to the rear speakers and it sounds great like that with these speakers right in your ear.

[srmitchell]

Whoa, that first doorless pic looks like steel, and not patriot blue.

[mattman8706]

Originally Posted by ddeadserious

In regard to your music dilemma, here's my solution:
albums/v25/trialbyashes/100_2551.jpg[/IMG]

I actually have about 75% of the sound faded to the rear speakers and it sounds great like that with these speakers right in your ear.

where did you get that soundbar from?

[ReconMill]

Originally Posted by mattman8706

where did you get that soundbar from?

Soundbar is probably from an earlier xj 96 below. Its for the rear. Edit; Maybe not, but the same can be done with what i said.

[mattman8706]

oh I didnt know earlier xjs had soundbars thanks

[dcorn]

Originally Posted by ddeadserious

In regard to your music dilemma, here's my solution:


I actually have about 75% of the sound faded to the rear speakers and it sounds great like that with these speakers right in your ear.

Mine is very similar to yours, but its in the stock '98 location in the roof right behind the rear seats. Still puts out great sound to the front, so I have mine faded to the rear some as well. The door speakers are too far down to really put out any decent sound.

[NinjaofDoom]

i have the same mirror. except i dont have the big holes from the hinge so i used a bolt from the fender.
The new rockers make the doorless look better too.

[EricsXJ]

Originally Posted by dcorn

Any trouble with the po-po??

No not yet but I am legal in every way except technically I need horns. (stock ones failed after submerging them.) I work for the SO here but I'm not a street cop... I looked up the Nevada law regarding vehicle equipment. Tecnically I only need one rear facing mirror so I'm going above and beyond with the side mirrors. I do like having them for convenience sake. And there is no mention at all about doors being needed, or removing them being prohibited, etc. The problem I see is not having doors may draw the attention of some highway trooper that may pull me over looking for other safety equipment violations. And besides, not only Wranglers, but the UPS guys drive doorless (or door open) all the time too.