thanks kepishop. ill be doing that. the rear however are the ones that dont have as much slack
Unbolt the distribution block. Actually to do it right (er, right-er, less wrong, whatever...) you can make a bracket to move the block up higher by a couple inches. Just a Z shaped chunk of sheet metal with a hole on either end. Sandwich one end to the axle with the breather tube bolt thing (maybe use a spacer to keep the length right), and use a bolt and a nut on the other end to hold the block in place.
Should work fine on the road, but don't wheel on it since it leaves the hard lines in a more vulnerable place to branches.
Current: Black 89 limited, dakota bastard pack, zj coils, 1.5" lift, open cooling swap, bronco 2 carrier, rad fan switch Rest in Pieces: Red 1990 cherokee dana30/8.25 - v8 zj coils & s10 bastard pack 2.5" lift - 31x10.5r15 tires - v8 zj tierod
The front is sitting at 22" from hub to flare, so that's about 4.5" of lift. The rear was lifted about 3.5-4". I have to go measure again. I don't need the SYE b/c i have a 2wd. So far, ive driven top speed of about 45mph, and no vibrations. Of the brake lines, the one that needs extending the most is the one that goes vertical to the body from the axle, closer to the middle, that is only on the drivers side.
If you want the same amount of lift as me, use your XJ main, and the whole s10 leaf pack without the overload (the stubby small bottom one).
The overload will give you about another 3/8-1/2 of lift, but you will need longer u bolts. Remember-absolutely important -PBBLASTER a week before. Will make your install time like 5x faster.
Get some carbide bits a hair larger than the S10 centerpin. You will need them to bore out the XJ leaf spring. REGULAR BITS WON'T WORK I TRIED.
Get some kind of leaf compressor. I used ratcheting tie downs, b/c i was able to drop the front axle so far down, and needed minimal compression