Throttle Body Spacers - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 21 Old 10-05-2003, 11:40 PM Thread Starter
CHEROKEEMAX
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Throttle Body Spacers

Hey XJ guys. I was considering getting a throttle body spacer for my jeep.. Do any of you have throttle body spacers? Which should i get the Helix throttle body spacer, or the Poweraid throttle body spacer? I know the gains arent much, but any horsepower is beneficial... Thanks for your help guys.

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post #2 of 21 Old 10-06-2003, 08:21 AM
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I came on looking for an answer to a similar question, but I'm also looking at the Rusty's Off Road tbs, too... Any opinions would be appreciated!

Mine would be for a 1999 4.0L XJ... that may be getting the Rusty's air tube and filter at the same time.
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post #3 of 21 Old 10-06-2003, 09:43 AM
Jason, aka: Jeepin.com
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I've got one and IMHO it's a good mod, but I don't know if it's woth the ~$75 that most folks charge for it. Rusty's would probably be the one to get, I think it's cheaper. The whole helical bore thing is just a gimmick, get whichever one you can get the cheapest.

However, for bang for the buck, you're much better off going with a bore-out throttle body like the one from JeepersandCreepers.com.

Jason West - Jeepin.com | JeepinOutfitters.com
'16 JKUR Hard Rock, RE/Synergy 3.5", 37" GY MTR/Ks
'95 XJ, RE 5.5", 35" MT/Rs, D30 w/hubs & ARB, D44 w/Detroit, 4.56s, C4x4 bumpers, etc, etc.
'00 TJ, SOLD, wife's, RE 4.5" long-arm, 35" MT/Rs, D30+OX, D44+ARB, 4.88s, full cage, winch, C4x4 & Jeeperman bumpers, etc, etc.


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post #4 of 21 Old 10-06-2003, 12:52 PM
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I run a Power Aid model myself with a FIPK2(yes, I cut a hole in my hood to fit it). Be warned that the poweraids make your ride sound supercharged, has a weird whistle at around 3,000 RPM's. The theory is sound and with a the combination I noticed a fairly good difference. I would recommend the two.........if you like cutting holes.

98 TJ 4.0 Stick 30 Lock-Right/44 True-Track,4.56. Fire RED. Optima Red top. 3" Full Traction lift, Cragar 352 Street locks w/3.75 BS. 32" BFG AT's. Sailcloth top. Classic4x4 tubular fenders. AtoZ Fab rockers and front and rear bumpers. TBT sportsbar and rear spreader. VDP 6 speaker bar. 2K Intake Manifold. Tuffy Speaker lock boxes. Power inverter. Cobra CB. Magellan GPS. Bed lined tub. 3core HD radiator. Olds airbox with Hummer snokle. Besttop seat covers with heaters. All running lights LED.Steering and oil pan skids. Mile Marker PE8000 winch. Currie Anti-Rock. Olympic trunk. Tuffy Console....and Buddha on the winch. :) And a child seat stained with mud.
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post #5 of 21 Old 10-06-2003, 02:01 PM
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I must have needed to spend some money today... Just ordered the Rusty TBS and their Airtube with the smaller K&N filter... Got myself a little project for this Saturday!!

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post #6 of 21 Old 10-06-2003, 10:03 PM
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Here is a brief write-up I did for a Cerokee e-mail list that discusses TB Spacers and the like...

========================================

Just wanted to pass on what sort of effect having a bored out throttle body can have on your engine performance. Yowza, Yowza, Yowza!

First a little background. My 98 Cherokee has previously had troubles running on 87 octane fuel. I have for the last 5.5 years been forced to buy 89 octane which is usually 10 cents/gallon more than the 87 octane. So I have had my eye on something that would alleviate my need to waste money on the higher grade gas, which was also allegedly yielded a lower mile per gallon than the 87 octane would.

So I started on my search for a miracle cure. I have heard that using a spark plug that works in a colder heat range would eliminate pinging, but I was unsure if there would be any other side effects introduced with such a solution. So I never pursued that avenue as a repair. I also noticed on Dirk's http://dpgoffroad.com/tech/default.htm site that a cold air intake setup worked to eliminate his pre-ignition troubles. His application involved tying the cold air intake into a Safari Snorkel for fresh air scavenging. I liked the concept behind the setup and have always been a little jealous of the brothers "Gibson", Derek Paschal, Dora Fang and some of the other cool kids. So I emulated Dirk's setup with just a minor variation or two and created a new cold air intake for my XJ. Low and behold it actually worked just as Dirk said his did, I was finally back on 87 octane petro.

Then I decided I wanted to see if I could squeak a little more performance out of my freer breathing engine and purchased an inexpensive (IMO) cat-back exhaust from Dynomax for $100. This seemed to allow my jeep to hold highway speeds easier during long graded inclines. My transmission was no longer hunting for a way to keep my forward momentum at a constant rate. So once again another positive outcome, for a reasonable amount of money.

In my next piece of research I wanted to pursue a throttle body spacer and a bored out throttle body. I was sure I didn't want to buy a new, replacement throttle body like the ones offered from Turbo City or Rubicon Express. My reasoning was horsepower on the cheap and these products no longer were in my definition of cheap. So after spending a fair amount of time combing through the internet I had located two solid articles to base my decisions upon.

The first was from Jason West's Jeepin.com website. There he had two separate write-ups, one for a Poweraid throttle body spacer from Airaid. The other article was for a bored out throttle body from Jeepers & Creepers. He was most impressed with the result of the bored out throttle body. So I had a good testimony that the two items were worth pursuing.

So I knew I wanted a bored out throttle body, but I still didn't want to pay $110 dollars to Jeepers and Creepers for the luxury. So I looked up my next article from the man whom shares my first name, the thunder from down under... Marcus Ohms is pretty renowned on this list for his creative ways to improve an XJ on the cheap (http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoTBboring.htm). So I studied his article on how he bored out a stock throttle body AND the Poweraid throttle body spacer. He too was ecstatic with the new found performance. So I went about deciding what tools would be necessary to bore it out, I had read of people using a sand paper flapper wheel, sanding drum, Dremel and a brake cylinder hone. Each method has its own positive and negatives.

Before I got too excited and bought a new tool or two I thought I would contact a machine shop to see how much it would cost. I have a large number of machine shops in my vicinity so I spoke with one that assures me that the work could be completed for under $50. I thought for that price I was game as surely the combination of tool purchase and time, plus the risk of screwing up would be greater than what the machine shop could offer me.

So $35.00 later I had a "Helix" throttle body spacer (I purchased the Helix brand because it was a natural aluminum color unlike that gussied up red one from Poweraid) and the lower portion of my stock throttle body punched out to 60mm, up from the stock 55mm. So the installation occurred this afternoon and I have had the opportunity to put 40 miles on the setup. And let me tell you I have certainly more responsive acceleration! Don't get me wrong, it isn't lightening in a bottle type of stuff, but it is certainly noticeable. Even with 32's and the stock 3.55's and the air conditioning pumping hard, I could still feel a significant difference.

So the long story short is that you can add me to the list of satisfied customers, big bang for $95! Your mileage will vary if you attempt this type of performance improvement depending upon your vehicles other performance upgrades.


-Marc-
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post #7 of 21 Old 10-06-2003, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheesycook
I run a Power Aid model myself with a FIPK2(yes, I cut a hole in my hood to fit it). Be warned that the poweraids make your ride sound supercharged, has a weird whistle at around 3,000 RPM's. The theory is sound and with a the combination I noticed a fairly good difference. I would recommend the two.........if you like cutting holes.

Yeah I was looking into the Poweraid spacer myself. Thats great if it sounds like a supercharger. I dont expect much from it but anything is good. I do have the KNFipk2.. So i need to cut a whole in my hood to fit this? I dont want to do that. Everyone who has the spacer and fipk needs to cut a hole in the hood? Are there any spacers that will work with the FIPK2 without cutting the hood?

Thanks for your input
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post #8 of 21 Old 10-07-2003, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHEROKEEMAX
Yeah I was looking into the Poweraid spacer myself. Thats great if it sounds like a supercharger. I dont expect much from it but anything is good. I do have the KNFipk2.. So i need to cut a whole in my hood to fit this? I dont want to do that. Everyone who has the spacer and fipk needs to cut a hole in the hood? Are there any spacers that will work with the FIPK2 without cutting the hood?

Thanks for your input
Go for a bored-out TB instead. It costs more, but you get more gains and you don't have to cut a hole in your hood to clear your FIPK intake tube.

Jason West - Jeepin.com | JeepinOutfitters.com
'16 JKUR Hard Rock, RE/Synergy 3.5", 37" GY MTR/Ks
'95 XJ, RE 5.5", 35" MT/Rs, D30 w/hubs & ARB, D44 w/Detroit, 4.56s, C4x4 bumpers, etc, etc.
'00 TJ, SOLD, wife's, RE 4.5" long-arm, 35" MT/Rs, D30+OX, D44+ARB, 4.88s, full cage, winch, C4x4 & Jeeperman bumpers, etc, etc.


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post #9 of 21 Old 10-07-2003, 07:27 AM
cheesycook
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The FIPK2 gets really close to the hood. I agree you should just go with a bored throttle body. I don't know about anyone else that cut a hole, I am just.........not right.

98 TJ 4.0 Stick 30 Lock-Right/44 True-Track,4.56. Fire RED. Optima Red top. 3" Full Traction lift, Cragar 352 Street locks w/3.75 BS. 32" BFG AT's. Sailcloth top. Classic4x4 tubular fenders. AtoZ Fab rockers and front and rear bumpers. TBT sportsbar and rear spreader. VDP 6 speaker bar. 2K Intake Manifold. Tuffy Speaker lock boxes. Power inverter. Cobra CB. Magellan GPS. Bed lined tub. 3core HD radiator. Olds airbox with Hummer snokle. Besttop seat covers with heaters. All running lights LED.Steering and oil pan skids. Mile Marker PE8000 winch. Currie Anti-Rock. Olympic trunk. Tuffy Console....and Buddha on the winch. :) And a child seat stained with mud.
Hermiston, ORL

AtoZ Where Zach makes me toys!
Stu-Offroad, because I don't have a clue, but Stu does!
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post #10 of 21 Old 10-07-2003, 07:50 AM
MSHarnett
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I have the Helix spacer and Rock It air intake from Turbo City. The air tube put a slight dent in the hood as I shut it, I was kinda pissed but, all well. I'm putting on those hood vents soon, so that will be gone anyway. As far a HP, I noticed a slight gain, but it sure does sound cool, haha. I remeber one guy saying it made an annoying whistle so he turnied it upside down to get rid of it. I couldn't stop laughing after reading that. So make sure when you put it in, the top is on the top, otherwise it's useless.

Matt

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post #11 of 21 Old 10-07-2003, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSHarnett
I remeber one guy saying it made an annoying whistle so he turnied it upside down to get rid of it. I couldn't stop laughing after reading that. So make sure when you put it in, the top is on the top, otherwise it's useless.

Matt
That was probably me. And I couldn't tell if that last comment was being sarcastic or not, but as far as "performance" goes, it doesn't matter which way you put the spacer in. The helical bore thing offers no benefit on a fuel-injected engine, though it does probably help when used with a carb. In fact, many new spacers don't even have it. I had my spacer bored out to match my TB and the threads are gone now. I'm getting ready to install an AEM Intake on our TJ and it comes with a spacer that's already bored to 60mm to match a bored-out TB, and it doesn't have threads cut in it either.

Jason West - Jeepin.com | JeepinOutfitters.com
'16 JKUR Hard Rock, RE/Synergy 3.5", 37" GY MTR/Ks
'95 XJ, RE 5.5", 35" MT/Rs, D30 w/hubs & ARB, D44 w/Detroit, 4.56s, C4x4 bumpers, etc, etc.
'00 TJ, SOLD, wife's, RE 4.5" long-arm, 35" MT/Rs, D30+OX, D44+ARB, 4.88s, full cage, winch, C4x4 & Jeeperman bumpers, etc, etc.


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post #12 of 21 Old 10-07-2003, 09:39 AM
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I had the wistle after putting on a bored TB .... now, with the snorkel, you can't hear it

... an no sidewindin' bushwackin', hornswagglin' cracker croaker is gonna rouin me bishen cutter.
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post #13 of 21 Old 10-07-2003, 11:36 AM
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Now wait a minute, what exactly is the purpose of the spacer. I thought the treads were supposed to help with air flow or something. What happens by raise the throttle body? ha, and I thought I knew what I was talking about.

Matt

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post #14 of 21 Old 10-07-2003, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSHarnett
Now wait a minute, what exactly is the purpose of the spacer. I thought the treads were supposed to help with air flow or something. What happens by raise the throttle body? ha, and I thought I knew what I was talking about.

Matt
Nah, the threads are just a gimmick and have no real effect on a fuel injected engine. The spacer helps by increasing the volume of air in the intake manifold. It increases the plenum length, or what some folks call the runner length I think. I've heard that on the ODBII 4.0L's that Jeep actually slightly raised the throttle body up to get some of the same effect.

Now, going on that logic could you make a taller spacer or stack two and get even more gains? Possibly, I don't know anyone that's done it though...

Jason West - Jeepin.com | JeepinOutfitters.com
'16 JKUR Hard Rock, RE/Synergy 3.5", 37" GY MTR/Ks
'95 XJ, RE 5.5", 35" MT/Rs, D30 w/hubs & ARB, D44 w/Detroit, 4.56s, C4x4 bumpers, etc, etc.
'00 TJ, SOLD, wife's, RE 4.5" long-arm, 35" MT/Rs, D30+OX, D44+ARB, 4.88s, full cage, winch, C4x4 & Jeeperman bumpers, etc, etc.


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post #15 of 21 Old 10-07-2003, 12:35 PM
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Ok I see what your saying. So then it allows more air behind the butterfly thingy, but does the sound come from the threads or is that happen with flat ones too?

Matt

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