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Unread 01-23-2012, 07:52 AM   #1
MrKevinRosales
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1996 XJ Cherokee 
 
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Temperature Question

So I've got a '96 Country and it still runs great, One thing that i have noticed though is that the temperature gauge never goes about a quarter of the way.
From what I know shouldn't the temperature gauge typically be half way across?
The Jeep was originally my dad's and he says that this started happening last time the radiator was changed, and that prior to that, the gauge had always been at the halfway point.
Is there something wrong with this?

Also my heating doesn't really work very well, could this be part of the issue?

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Unread 01-23-2012, 09:12 AM   #2
GtiKyle
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Thermostat could be stuck open. Was this changed at the time of the radiator? Some people think that to avoid overheating, they pull the thermostat. Makes things worse, so i'd check that first.
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Unread 01-23-2012, 05:13 PM   #3
blackgnx
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yep yep thermostat. while the engine is cold and started up feel you upper hose is it firm? if not eirther it's low on coolant or the stat is stuck open somwhat.
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Unread 01-23-2012, 05:42 PM   #4
djb383
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+3.....low temp reading AND poor heater performance are most likely due to a stuck open (or missing) t-stat. FWIW, a firm hose has nothing to do with the t-stat....but rather a cooling system with no leaks and a good rad cap. Pressure should rise equally throughout the system as the coolant temp rises, regardless of t-stat being open/closed......t-stat may not even be in there but pressure should still rise 'till rad cap rating is reached.
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Unread 01-23-2012, 05:45 PM   #5
Carves
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrKevinRosales View Post
So I've got a '96 Country and it still runs great, One thing that i have noticed though is that the temperature gauge never goes about a quarter of the way.
From what I know shouldn't the temperature gauge typically be half way across?
The Jeep was originally my dad's and he says that this started happening last time the radiator was changed, and that prior to that, the gauge had always been at the halfway point.
Is there something wrong with this?

Also my heating doesn't really work very well, could this be part of the issue?

I'd pull the thermostat out for a look, first up ... you'll probably find its a 160* ... or its stuck/sticking, open/partly open.

Drop a new 190 / 195 in ... make sure you have at 12qts of coolant in there ... and see how it responds.
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Unread 01-23-2012, 06:19 PM   #6
Camfam07
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ok so I kind of have the oppisite affect here on mine, it will stay little under half way, if it idles for more than 5 minutes starts getting hotter and hotter, and then makes its way past the half way mark! im sure this isnt normal, thermo replaced about 6 months ago, doesnt have a breather hole on the thermo dont know if it matters, is there something else I can do to keep it cool? I have mostly water in the RAD could that be doing it?
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Unread 01-23-2012, 06:37 PM   #7
Carves
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camfam07 View Post
ok so I kind of have the oppisite affect here on mine, it will stay little under half way, if it idles for more than 5 minutes starts getting hotter and hotter, and then makes its way past the half way mark! im sure this isnt normal, thermo replaced about 6 months ago, doesnt have a breather hole on the thermo dont know if it matters, is there something else I can do to keep it cool? I have mostly water in the RAD could that be doing it?
actually it is fairly normal ... up to a point - as the fans should kick in and control it.

Sounds like an airflow problem ... so consider fitting a new fan clutch if you dont know how old yours is ... and make sure the electric fan is operational.

T'Stat breather hole assists with clearing air pockets ... can be useful

Water Only - in the rad is better for cooling .... Not so good for rust or in freezing conditions ... but it wont be the cause, of an overheating situation.
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Unread 01-23-2012, 07:28 PM   #8
tjwalker
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Carves replying to a cooling system question.....

WHO WOULD HAVE THOUGHT??
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Unread 01-23-2012, 08:05 PM   #9
Camfam07
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Thanks I was thinking it was the Clutch fan, and im thinking of upgrading to a 2 row radiator with the electric fan? and then can I remove the fan clutch and just have the pulley on there??
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Unread 01-23-2012, 08:07 PM   #10
Camfam07
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Originally Posted by Camfam07 View Post
Thanks I was thinking it was the Clutch fan, and im thinking of upgrading to a 2 row radiator with the electric fan? and then can I remove the fan clutch and just have the pulley on there??
2 electric fans actually*, I want to do the conversion and fully get the fan clutch out of the equation.
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Unread 01-23-2012, 08:36 PM   #11
djb383
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Much easier/cheaper to replace the fan clutch.
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Unread 01-23-2012, 08:58 PM   #12
Camfam07
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Originally Posted by djb383 View Post
Much easier/cheaper to replace the fan clutch.
Yeah but "EASY" takes all the fun out of things, lol but I think for now most affordable and best route to go is fan clutch, I cannot think of anything else as far as cooling goes even replaced the water pump about a week ago and still getting overheating only idleing never overheats when towing a little bass tracker boat and or Road Trips. Fan Clutch and/or a high flow thermo housing is all I can think to replace now.
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Unread 01-23-2012, 09:03 PM   #13
djb383
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I'll bet after the radiator, fan clutch, water pump, t-stat and rad cap have been replaced, overheating will be a non-issue. Fan shrouds are in place, correct?
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Unread 01-23-2012, 09:07 PM   #14
Camfam07
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djb383 View Post
I'll bet after the radiator, fan clutch, water pump, t-stat and rad cap have been replaced, overheating will be a non-issue. Fan shrouds are in place, correct?
Yes shrouds are in place, havent replaced the RAD yet but thats next and if I do I will do the 2 row and just use 2-3 electric fans, to cool it.... anyways, yeah so far new water pump and thermo. but im thinking the fan clutch is stock, ill start there.
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Unread 01-23-2012, 09:24 PM   #15
djb383
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When u say stock, do u mean original? Is the rad original?
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