Is a sye needed for a 4.5" lift and what other parts do u recommend geting - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 07-25-2013, 11:14 PM Thread Starter
longislandxj
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Is a sye needed for a 4.5" lift and what other parts do u recommend geting

I need to know if a sye is needed for 4.5" of lift my jeep is a 1994 xj planing on getting a zone lift kit either 3" or 4.5" and what other things besides the lift would you recommend geting the jeep will be a DD

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post #2 of 15 Old 07-26-2013, 02:01 AM
Holder350
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Either a SYE or at least a TC drop.

What else is required will depend on how complete your kit will be.

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95' XJ Country - Stock Skids - D30/D35 Limited Slip - 3" Lift - 31x10.50R15 - 4.0 HO - AX15 - NP231

98' XJ Classic - D30/C8.25 - 4.5" RC Lift - 33x12.50R15 - 4.0 HO - AW4 - NP231
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post #3 of 15 Old 07-26-2013, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
longislandxj
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The 4.5" kit comes with a t case drop but whats the chance of still geting driveline vibes
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post #4 of 15 Old 07-26-2013, 06:03 PM
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100% on the vibration, an sye and shims is most likely what you'll need.
You might want to think about e-brake cables

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post #5 of 15 Old 07-26-2013, 07:19 PM
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Go sye and shims.

You can get a tighter belly pan (TnT) or crossmember or tcase skid w/o a tcase drop.

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post #6 of 15 Old 07-27-2013, 03:27 PM
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You don't need a SYE because of a 4.5" lift.
You WANT a SYE for the benefits it adds.
Try driving w/o your rear drive shaft w/o a SYE and you'll dump your T-case fluid...

If the kit is good, it should have most of what you need for a DD.
For off-roading, you'll want sway bar disconnects and skid plates. Possibly adjustable control arms and track bar.
At 4.5" you won't NEED longer brake hoses and cables, but you might want stainless hoses if you do off-road...
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post #7 of 15 Old 07-27-2013, 04:09 PM
mike_breaker_5
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for the $175 it costs for a crown sye and the $35 for a junkyard front drive shaft with a double cardan joint will make you a happier camper with 4.5" of lift. i don't know how short the rear shaft for an xj is but i know when you take a stock 13" rear shaft and stretch it to 17" with the double cardan joint, it makes life nicer while driving.

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post #8 of 15 Old 07-27-2013, 06:16 PM Thread Starter
longislandxj
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Was going to lift it 4.5 without trimming or 3 inches with trimming and flares
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post #9 of 15 Old 07-27-2013, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sAe23 View Post
You don't need a SYE because of a 4.5" lift.
You WANT a SYE for the benefits it adds.
Try driving w/o your rear drive shaft w/o a SYE and you'll dump your T-case fluid...

If the kit is good, it should have most of what you need for a DD.
For off-roading, you'll want sway bar disconnects and skid plates. Possibly adjustable control arms and track bar.
At 4.5" you won't NEED longer brake hoses and cables, but you might want stainless hoses if you do off-road...
Not on a 96 and up he wont dump tcase fluid. You can take the rear DS out and be fine since it has an external seal flange.

Quote:
Originally Posted by longislandxj View Post
Was going to lift it 4.5 without trimming or 3 inches with trimming and flares
What are you trying to accomplish? I had a 4.5" lift on my old 99 with a tcase drop and it would only have driveline vibes when I would accelerate hard. You can do a hack n tap for $100 and get a junkyard shaft and be good to go.

1996 XJ on 36" TSLs, 4", locked F/R, stretched
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post #10 of 15 Old 07-27-2013, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
longislandxj
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Iam trying to do lift and tires on like a 2500$ budget and was trying to avoid installing a sye
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post #11 of 15 Old 07-28-2013, 12:20 AM
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If you don't use an sye($200 shouldn't break the bank) then I wouldn't do the case drop either. Makes for better rear angles, however, it takes ground clearance as well as puts more stress on the front. Ran 4.5" RE lift on 32's. No crazy vibes.


To make your budget think about used lift. I haven't bought a new xj lift. Always someone upgrading and they'll sell cheap. Buy new shocks and an sye. Budget building is easy, but takes a little patience.

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post #12 of 15 Old 07-28-2013, 09:30 AM
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I didn't need shims, no vibes. I have a dirt bound hack and tap sye that uses a front shaft as the rear. Love it. it was cheap.

TC drop is garbage. period.


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Thanks Chris!
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post #13 of 15 Old 07-28-2013, 11:49 AM
mike_breaker_5
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i have always looked at a t-case drop like this...
if your lifting the vehicle to put larger tires on, why would you not want to also optimize the belly clearance as well?
this is exactly why i am not a fan of boxed lifts. it is impossible to meet the needs of everyone that is lifting a vehicle with a kit that will fit 2-3 model and body styles.
IMO, boxed lifts are perfect for the guy that wants bigger tires at the price of suspension performance because the performance of their suspension is not going to be tested all that often.

don't get me wrong...
for most people a boxed lift is going to give them exactly what they need. however if you know enough to ask a question like being asked in this thread, then you should already have your answer. you just want to hear it from someone else.

it can be done any of about a hundred ways i'm sure. we can only give you our opinion as to what each of us thinks is the best course of action. in the end the choice is yours. only you know the abuse you plan to put your rig through. there is a reason i am sitting on dana 60's and 37"s with a v-8 and plans for an nv4500/d300. mostly because i want to beat the ever loving dog crap out of my ride.

do i think you should put an SYE kit in with any lift? certainly i do. was i willing to take the time and money to do it to mine? yes again.
you have a longer driveshaft than us wrangler guys do so your pinion angle won't be quite as jerked up as with a wrangler when you touch anything on the rear suspension. however the sye will give you a better chance of keeping vibs away from your drive line and will keep your u-joints, pinion seal, r&p gears, and x-case seal/internals intact for a longer period of time.

and just to say it again... wh lift your junk just to lower another part? especially on a cherrocar that is longer than a wrangler and more susceptible to being high centered and stuck like a turtle on it's back.

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it's not much to look at... but it's mine.
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post #14 of 15 Old 07-28-2013, 01:40 PM
sAe23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aircruiser View Post
Not on a 96 and up he wont dump tcase fluid. You can take the rear DS out and be fine since it has an external seal flange.
[snip]
Yeah, I always forget about the newer 231's :
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post #15 of 15 Old 07-28-2013, 04:52 PM
Kevin108
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I have an 01. Had vibes stock, with a t-case drop. Over time I've gone to a 3" of frankenlift, an IRO H&T SYE and 4 BDS shims. No vibes now.

My build thread has pics again. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f177/kevin108s-2000-xj-build-867428/
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