[conrasm]

I finished my PORC SYE install yesterday. Wasn't too bad. I used the Advanced adapters instructions for the diassembly (more detailed and available as pdf file from Tom Woods web page www.4xshaft.com ). The AA instructions deal primarely with the new NP 231 with the sealed bearing. I have the older style where the seal is in the end tailhousing. With the older style TC, I did NOT need any snap ring pliers, only a set of lock ring pliers (Sears $15) as there were only two to remove and three to put on. I did reuse the factory snap ring on the main shaft. It was a snug fit and I had to tap it into place with a screwdriver. If you have the newer style NP 231 (97+), then you will need snap ring pliers to diassemble the bearing on the stock tailhousing.

I've included some photos of things that I think would have been helpful if I had to do it again.

The top bolt is a 10mm 12 point bolt. I had to buy ($3 at sears) one as all I had were 6 pt's. I couldn't get a box end wrench to work. The trick with this bolt is that it has a 15 mm nut on the back securing a bracket for the speedo sensor wire. The bolt threads into the transfer case PLUS has the nut on the back. So you will need to loosen the nut before you start loosening the bolt.

Pry spots: Here's one on the lower passenger side and there is one on upper driver side (difficult to get at it with TC in vehicle). The bolt hole at the bottom right corner (next to pry spot) and bolt hole at opposite corner are slightly larger to accept a metal sleeve on the rear half of the TC. They center the rear half of the TC on the front half. These two bolts are the only ones that have washers.


Oil pump assemble: oil pump slides onto output shaft from outside the case and pick up tube inserted from inside. Little black box on right is a filter which I back flushed with brake parts cleaner. Instructions recommend installing as a unit, but you should check once it's on to make sure the sump tube is firmly seated in the oil pump. I snuck a flathead screwdriver in there and pried up on the collar of the tube to seat it properly. I also installed my oil pump after I put the back half of case on. It was tricky, but there is enough movement of the shaft to get in there with a screwdriver and guide the sump tube into the pump housing.


Magnet: Here's the magnet that sits in the front half of the TC opposite the filter shown above. It's about 1.75" in diameter. I wiped it off with a paper towel. It had quite a bid of crud on it.


Pressing bearing out of older style cog wheel: I was little worried about this step, but my little "press" worked out pretty good. The older style cog has two sets of caged needle bearings pressed into it which ride on the factory output shaft. The newer shaft from the SYE kit is thicker so the cog rides on the shaft itself (this same setup was used in the newer style TC case from NP).

I started off using the end tailhousing, but soon realized my new shaft would be bottoming out before the bearings were out. I constructed a little extension out of a 2x3. It's 2 3/8" wide inside to allow the bearings to slide out. I had to chip away some wood with a screwdriver along the center to get the clearance. One of the bearings is already out and you can see the marks in the wood from the cog. You have to hit pretty hard.


Here's how it worked. I hit the shaft with a large "no bounce" rubber mallet ($6 at Home Depot) so I didn't booger up the threads. You could have a helper hold a piece of wood over the end of the shaft and use a regular hammer:


Here's the second bearing almost out. It was hard to push both at the same time, but after one is out, the second one is much easier.


Here is the cog with both bearings out.


Here's the fruits of my labor (how sweet they were). I don't have the speedo sensor in yet.


And my front DS on the rear. I have 6" lift. The TC drop is still on, but I don't think it will affect the length too much when I remove it.


I did the installation with the TC in the vehicle. The TC drop probably made it a little easier, along with 6" of lift. I was able to roll around under there on my creeper comfortably. You DO NOT need to disconnect the shift linkage as stated in the instructions if you do this in the vehicle. I also did not need to trim the shift rail as mentioned in the AA instructions although they cover this very well. Mine protruded ~7/8". The depth of the pocket in the new tailhousing was ~1 1/8" with the supplied plug (has rubber o-ring). It protrudes the farthest in 4LO. Hope this is helpful to anyone tackling this in the future.

Just a little update: I found another front DS from a '99 XJ at salvage yard ($75) and removed my TC drop kit. It affected the DS length by about 1/4".

[Hell Raiser 106]

nicely done im saving this thread

[Blake]

I like the press.

Good tips.

[conrasm]

I'll sell it to you, cheap!!

It was Sunday afternoon, almost 60 degrees, and there was no way I was waiting to find a shop to press them out, so I improvised. I'm glad I did, it's been snowing all day today and now it's 20 degrees. I don't want to be laying under there now.

[conrasm]

I installed the speedo sensor and filled the tc with fluid. Took it for a short test drive yesterday evening and I can't believe how much smoother the ride is. All my vibes are gone. It's like driving a different vehicle.

[johnsoninc86]

Originally Posted by conrasm

I installed the speedo sensor and filled the tc with fluid. Took it for a short test drive yesterday evening and I can't believe how much smoother the ride is. All my vibes are gone. It's like driving a different vehicle.

That's exactly what i thought. It feels like driving a cadillac! well, almost atleast... Anyways, nice job, looks like it went pretty smooth. I guess me and you have become the guinea pigs for the PORC kit and the front shaft combo.

[Muddeprived]

Sorry to bring this back (it was worth it anyways) but what rear axle you running with that sye setup?

[lost honda pro]

Originally Posted by Muddeprived

Sorry to bring this back (it was worth it anyways) but what rear axle you running with that sye setup?

his vehicle specs list it as an '87 XJ D44 w/ aussie

[xjman4life]

How much longer is the dana 44 yoke or how far is the distance between your center of u joint at the axle and the center of the yoke off the SYE, so I can cross reference the distance against mine. Thanks

[balloo93]

D44 pinion is a bit longer than the D35 but shorter than the 8.25.

xjman4life you planning on the Hack-n-tap or the HD SYE? If you plan on eth HD SYE I'd hit the junk yards for a ZJ front drive shaft. It's about 1" longer than the XJ one.

[xjman4life]

HD SYE, i was shooting for the **** Sye. The ZJ, thats the older grands right?? I think I might just do that cause, about an inch longer than the stock is what I need. I looking at about a 37 to maybe a 35 1/2 inch driveshaft depending on how far the SYE yoke sticks out.

[xjman4life]

Do you know what yeat ZJ's the driveshafts are an inch longer?? I'm assuming the use the same U joint size right? Also what part is longer, so I can measure for it in the yard, the actual shaft itself or the slip part is longer?? Thanks alot..