What gauge of wire would you think would be absolute necessary for this? My stereo remote wire doesn't work so what I'm doing is running a wire from the positive on my amp to the remote port on my amp, and just putting a toggle switch on it. Wouldn't 14 gauge wire and a 10 amp toggle switch be enough?
Right now I can turn my stereo on without my keys. Also, I want to be able to have my amp power 'on-demand' so I have the option of turning it off when I'm driving if need be. The speakers in my signature are no longer in it. Now I'm just running a single Jensen box with 2 12" subs rated at 1200W.
Yesterday my Jeep caught fire... I had the remote wire with a switch idea and somehow the switch fried and all of the wire got toasted. I'm not sure if it was the switch or the mixture of wire I was using. All day today I had it on with 14 gauge wire and it never overhated, so it must have been the cheap switch or the 18 gauge speaker wire I was using yesterday lol.
So I have a switch rated for 15 amps now, and I'm using 14 gauge wire throughout so hopefully it won't be a problem. Thanks for the input.
DO NOT DO THIS. this will make ur amp on ALL the time, and will drain your battery, this happened to my Girlfriends car, dead every morning cause her amp would not turn off properly. run the remote wire to a toggle on the dash or to the ignition so it comes on only when the key is turned.
1990 Jeep Cherokee Laredo
NP242 Transfer case
Dana 30 front, 35 custom rear differentials
RE 4.5" Lift
32x11.50 BFGoodRich M/T KM's
American Eagle 058 Polished Aluminum Wheels, 3.63" BS.
Grand Cherokee Rear Disc Brake setup
Custom Downpipe W/ Cat Removed.
Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler.
Surco Roof Rack
Incase you didn't read correctly, I said I'm going to use a switch and wire. I wouldn't hook it up and leave it - I'm not that stupid. I'm in the process of wiring a switch to the remote wire right now. Got the XJ in pieces, poor thing.
Why would you want to wire any of the stereo components so that it will be able to be turned on without the keys? Thats just leading to dead batteries. I had my YJ radio wired like that, drained my battery. I didnt know if it was really turned off or not because the face plate was faulty. Everything should be on a switched 12v. If you put in another manual switch after that, thats fine.
White '94 YJ Sport Black '98 ZJ Laredo - 45x60 Surco Rack - 2" Budget Boost, Addco Front Swaybar
Why wouldnt you just run a wire with an inline fuse to your fuse box on a fuse that was only on when the car was on?
Well that would be too clean and easy... I wouldn't tap into the amp power wire with a switch, there is too much current there, fire and melting wire waiting to happen. Really I would think about a new head unit. The one you've got and all the band-aid solutions are just gonna be headaches, I've been there. But if a new unit is too far off I'd do the fuse block idea.
'89 XJ Limited
[COLOR=Red][B]3"-4.5"ish Homebrew lift[/B][/COLOR]
[COLOR=White][B]16x8 MB Motoring Rockers[/B][/COLOR]
[COLOR=Red][B]265/75R16(31[SIZE="1"]ish[/SIZE]"X10.4") Goodyear Wrangler M/TRs[/B][/COLOR]
[COLOR=White][B]Trimmed w/ Bushwackers[/B][/COLOR]
[COLOR=Red][B]Stock 3:55 gears[/B][/COLOR][/B][/SIZE]
[B][COLOR=White]sans big audio[/COLOR][/B]
[B][COLOR=Red]Homebrew intake w/cone filter[/COLOR][/B]
"Some people are like a slinky... Not really good for anything, but you still can't help but smile when you see one tumble down the stairs." :my dad