starts to overheat at idle

twomanyjeeps · 01-12-2009, 08:18 PM

01 xj with about 97 k, I replaced the hoses, t-stat, and flushed the radiator about 25 k ago, still would start to overheat at idle (by start to overheat would actually go above 210 and the electric fan wouldn't help and continues to rise) once I start moving its fine, it only used to do that on a few days during the summer where the heat index is above 100. Once the vehicle gets up to speed its fine. Now however, its doing on days where the temp is around 20, and it does it more quickly now like being at a light. Any thoughts, think the vanes on the water pump are getting worn down.

jeep95xj · 01-12-2009, 08:20 PM

I had the same problem with my 95 XJ Replace the fan clutch. Solved my problem.

**xjfever** · 01-12-2009, 09:03 PM

X2 on the fan clutch. The fan is only good at idle pretty much. Once you get up to speed there is plenty of airflow thru the radiator. If it were the water pump it would still overheat at speed. Maybe not as much with increased RPM's, but would still creep up to excessive temps.

BrunoS · 01-12-2009, 10:41 PM

worn out fan clutch- they last 3-5 years normally.

causes a hot idle temp creep that goes away upon accleration from a stop

98junk · 01-12-2009, 11:36 PM

If you are replacing fan clutch, might as well upgrade it.
Napa # 272310 97-98 ZJ w/o max cooling
Firmer coupling. $62

Thegonagle · 01-12-2009, 11:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 98junk

If you are replacing fan clutch, might as well upgrade it.
Napa # 272310 97-98 ZJ w/o max cooling
Firmer coupling. $62

Good to know. I usually have great luck with Napa parts. Just to clarify, will that work with any year fan and/or water pump? (I'm about to replace the fan clutch on mine in spring.)

twomanyjeeps · 01-14-2009, 11:28 AM

Now when I pop the hood at operating temp I still see the main fan running at a pretty good pace, with a bad fan clutch, is it that the clutch is slipping and the fan isn't spinning as fast as it should be, or does a busted clutch mean no fan movement at all???

BrunoS · 01-14-2009, 05:49 PM

yes...fan will follow somewhat, but the older they get, the more the coupling will slip.

at near 210'F above, you should hear a HURRICANE or a load ROAR going under the hood when you first start up driving after sitting at a red light with a temp creep beyond 210'F. the fact that your electric fan can't cool it down by itself also indicates goo in your cooling system as well.

if that is not happening...your FAN CLUTCH is shot.

they are a normal wear/replace $40 item after 5 years....please don't argue the fact. it's about 30 minutes of work with a phillips (fan shroud) and two 1/2" box wrenches and a rag to wipe all the goo that's leaking out of the old fan clutch to change this thing out.

simply put:

buy a radiator t-flush adaptor/kit for $10 with a fresh gallon of long life antifreeze, and follow instructions to get crud out of your motor. stick with 50/50 mix when you are refilling to get the best cooling/antifreeze/boiling control mix down. also check your pressure cap on the radiator as well.

while that's going on, install the new fan clutch.

problem solved.

next question....how old is your fuel filter? ever been replaced? $14 part that everyone forgets but makes a huge difference in how the motor feels.

twomanyjeeps · 01-15-2009, 08:59 AM

I'll definately do the fan clutch, unfortuneatly its just too damn cold right now to do any work on it but its not overheating that bad (if I'm at idle and I notice the temp starting to go up, i just put it in park and rev the engine to about 1200 rmp, that brings it back down) but it hasn't even pinged on me yet so I'm just going to wait til at least a 40 degree temp is around. As for the fuel filter, I was under the impression that was located in the gas tank with the rest of the sending unit. If that is a "while I'm at it" job I'll definately consider that too. Could you elaborate some more on it. TIA

**firefighter1c57** · 01-15-2009, 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twomanyjeeps

I'll definately do the fan clutch, unfortuneatly its just too damn cold right now to do any work on it but its not overheating that bad (if I'm at idle and I notice the temp starting to go up, i just put it in park and rev the engine to about 1200 rmp, that brings it back down) but it hasn't even pinged on me yet so I'm just going to wait til at least a 40 degree temp is around. As for the fuel filter, I was under the impression that was located in the gas tank with the rest of the sending unit. If that is a "while I'm at it" job I'll definately consider that too. Could you elaborate some more on it. TIA

Yes the fuel filter on your 01 XJ is in the tank with the sending unit. I don't think the last poster read your year correctly. I wouldn't worry about changing it, it's a real PITA.

BrunoS · 01-15-2009, 06:50 PM

fuel filters:

1996 and prior years: external, size of a coke aluminum can. $14, 10 minutes to change.

1997 and newer: in the tank. you can remove pump/filter WITHOUT dropping gas tank on xj's. you WILL need a new 0-gasket to seal the pump assembly on the tank. a few hour job not difficult but you need to be able to get underneath to play with it.

twomanyjeeps · 01-15-2009, 07:24 PM

not worth it, at least while its still cold as balls but with almost 100 k on the ticker I'm sure its only a matter of time (not sure what others experience is on xj's specifically) so I might do a preventative job during the spring and replace the pump and filter, but for now I'll just upgrade the fan clutch.

twomanyjeeps · 04-04-2009, 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thegonagle

Good to know. I usually have great luck with Napa parts. Just to clarify, will that work with any year fan and/or water pump? (I'm about to replace the fan clutch on mine in spring.)

UPDATE: I did use this fan clutch and it does bolt up just fine, the only problem I had was trying to wrestle the fan shroud back in because the fan clutch mentioned is much larger than the stock unit. Now it does sound like a hurricane is going on hunder the hood. I did however find out that the overheating at idle was due in part to a low coolant condition caused by leaking radiator. Some "stop leak" cured the leak (it was a small leak), also the t-stat was slow to open up once the vehicle gets near operating temp so when I replaced the t-stat, I also did the fan clutch and the water pump for good measure, better now than down the road.

sharphintofemo · 05-20-2009, 01:58 PM

would the fan clutch make squealing sounds when going bad? ive got a squeal going on and i keep changing things trying to eliminate it but it keeps coming back.

jeep95xj · 05-20-2009, 09:29 PM

usually not. noise may be a water pump bearing or the alterantor on its way out. could also be a loose or bad belt, low power steering fluid level, bad power steering pump, bad ac compressor. what have you replaced?

01-12-2009, 10:41 PM	#4
BrunoS Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: South Bay Los Angeles, CA Posts: 2,538 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	worn out fan clutch- they last 3-5 years normally. causes a hot idle temp creep that goes away upon accleration from a stop __________________ Newly Painted! Emerald Green '96 XJ 4x4 4.0 HO 5-spd 3" Lift + 31" Tires / D35 TracLok / NP231 Drilled out Stock Airbox / Gauge Cluster Upgrade Magnaflow Muffler / High-flo Cat / MSD Coil

01-14-2009, 05:49 PM	#8
BrunoS Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: South Bay Los Angeles, CA Posts: 2,538 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	yes...fan will follow somewhat, but the older they get, the more the coupling will slip. at near 210'F above, you should hear a HURRICANE or a load ROAR going under the hood when you first start up driving after sitting at a red light with a temp creep beyond 210'F. the fact that your electric fan can't cool it down by itself also indicates goo in your cooling system as well. if that is not happening...your FAN CLUTCH is shot. they are a normal wear/replace $40 item after 5 years....please don't argue the fact. it's about 30 minutes of work with a phillips (fan shroud) and two 1/2" box wrenches and a rag to wipe all the goo that's leaking out of the old fan clutch to change this thing out. simply put: buy a radiator t-flush adaptor/kit for $10 with a fresh gallon of long life antifreeze, and follow instructions to get crud out of your motor. stick with 50/50 mix when you are refilling to get the best cooling/antifreeze/boiling control mix down. also check your pressure cap on the radiator as well. while that's going on, install the new fan clutch. problem solved. next question....how old is your fuel filter? ever been replaced? $14 part that everyone forgets but makes a huge difference in how the motor feels. __________________ Newly Painted! Emerald Green '96 XJ 4x4 4.0 HO 5-spd 3" Lift + 31" Tires / D35 TracLok / NP231 Drilled out Stock Airbox / Gauge Cluster Upgrade Magnaflow Muffler / High-flo Cat / MSD Coil

01-15-2009, 06:50 PM	#11
BrunoS Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: South Bay Los Angeles, CA Posts: 2,538 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	fuel filters: 1996 and prior years: external, size of a coke aluminum can. $14, 10 minutes to change. 1997 and newer: in the tank. you can remove pump/filter WITHOUT dropping gas tank on xj's. you WILL need a new 0-gasket to seal the pump assembly on the tank. a few hour job not difficult but you need to be able to get underneath to play with it. __________________ Newly Painted! Emerald Green '96 XJ 4x4 4.0 HO 5-spd 3" Lift + 31" Tires / D35 TracLok / NP231 Drilled out Stock Airbox / Gauge Cluster Upgrade Magnaflow Muffler / High-flo Cat / MSD Coil