Smoke from Steering column

mfinkler · 06-27-2007, 05:05 PM

I have a 96. I noticed a few weeks ago I had a little smoke rising up from my steering column while driving. I had the A/C blower on high and turned it down and it quit smoking. I have not ran it on high since but tried it today and the same thing happened. It's not a lot of smoke but you can tell it's electrical. I pulled the cover and there is a wiring harness directly under the ignition lock with 7 wires going to it. I don't believe this is the ignition switch. Two of the wires look like they have gotten hot and are slightly discolored and the whole assembly was pretty warm. Is the blower somehow connected to this? I've only had it since Jan and never noticed any smoke running the heat on high. There is some sort of aftermarket security system installed. There's a small key and lock assembly mounted under the dash with about a gobillion wires on it. I'm sure this thing is wired in the ignition somehow. Any ideas?

**Arcticcat843** · 06-27-2007, 05:08 PM

better go buy a new ign switch now to save time. Mine did the same thing right before it melted thought the cover and burnt up. Oh and when they go, THEY Go. Mine messed up the starter, the wipers, turn signals...everything. oh and i was 4 hours from home. (i had to tow it home) I dnt know about the key under the dash and stuff

**kg4kzv** · 06-27-2007, 05:37 PM

Yep sounds like your ignition switch is going bad. I just replaced mine I took the old one apart to see what messed up. Inside I found one of the contacts was getting so hot that it melted almost through the plastic housing. It is a ground for the whole switch I think. It looks like it gets a burned deposit on it and from there its resistance goes up and heat starts to build up. Eventually the copper gets hot enough to melt the plastic under it and can no longer make good contact with the moving contacts inside the switch and makes things act funny like the blower motor,wipers,turn signals and one day you turn the key and your Jeep starts but when you turn the key loose the engine turns off. I can post some pics later of the burnt up switch if you would like.

Chris

mfinkler · 06-27-2007, 06:44 PM

OK I do see now that it is part of the ignition switch. Do you think something with the A/C is causing the problem or just a switch going bad and when I have the blower on high it somehow causes more drain on that switch? I would hate to put a new one in and have the A/C blow it out too. Does the switch just slide out over the lock cylinder? It looks like there is only 4 torx screws holding it in right?

**kg4kzv** · 06-27-2007, 07:08 PM

Mine was held on by 3 tamper resistant torx screws. The lock cylinder comes out with the switch then you remove it and put it in the new switch. My switch came from advance auto parts and had instructions with it if the switch you get has them before you start read them and follow them. Trust me I pulled my switch then read the instructions to get the lock out of then back into the switch. But the key was in when I pulled it out and on the wrong position so I had to fight with it to get it back in right. I think the only part of the A/C that runs of the switch is the blower so no you can't hurt anything. Always disconnect the battery of coarse when working on the electrical system. Good luck.

Chris

RickyN29 · 06-27-2007, 07:20 PM

Yep, common problem.

The dinky ignition switch provides a mechanical electrical connection for a lot of high drain devices. As everything ages, the wires corrode and the resistance goes up. This means more current is necessary.

The ign switch heats up and melts/burns/smokes.

**kg4kzv** · 06-27-2007, 07:24 PM

Mine is a 95 this is a link to the switch I thought it might help. If you look you can see the two brass inserts at the top that it where 2 of the screws are the other is on the other side next to the light ring. Then there is one that holds in the lock. But you have to have the key and run it through a key cycle per instructions to remove the lock and to reinstall the lock into the switch. sounds bad but trust me after you have done it you will be thinking about installing hidden fuel pump kill switch. Bad guys can buy a new lock with a key and a new switch and then well you will see. SCARY!!!

Chris

**Arcticcat843** · 06-27-2007, 07:45 PM

I ordered one, it was the wrong conection, Then ordered the other model and it was way off. Then ordered the first one again and looked and it closer and realized that you dont use the stock busser switch and light, the new one has it built in. so look it over good, the jeep dealer dont know what what they are talking about.

**kg4kzv** · 06-27-2007, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arcticcat843

I ordered one, it was the wrong conection, Then ordered the other model and it was way off. Then ordered the first one again and looked and it closer and realized that you dont use the stock busser switch and light, the new one has it built in. so look it over good, the jeep dealer dont know what what they are talking about.

I figured that out before I took mine back. Also you have to use the new little bracket they give you the old one won't fit. Good catch Arcticcat843 that info can save a few trips to the parts store and a lot of confusion.

Chris

mfinkler · 06-28-2007, 03:55 PM

Ok I bought an ignition switch today. Here's what the instructions state for removing the cylinder 1. With key inserted and cylinder in LOCK position depress retaining pin 2. Rotate key clockwise to the OFF 3. Rotate key counterclockwise to the LOCK position 4. Remove key and cylinder.

My question is: Is the LOCK position the position just ahead of off. If I turn the key clockwise from OFF but stop before any light's or fuel pump kicks on is that LOCK?

**kg4kzv** · 06-28-2007, 08:08 PM

Lock is when the steering wheel is locked. Mine had a screw not a pin. You have the switch out or are you trying to pull the lock out first before pulling the switch.

Chris

mfinkler · 06-28-2007, 08:15 PM

I have not taken it out yet. I got to get a tamper proof torx bit to get the screws out. Mine does have the screw instead of a pin also. If LOCK is when your steering wheel is locked what is OFF. My steering wheel locks when I turn the key off. I beleive LOCK is the next position up because you can see the cylinder back out a bit in that position. Anyway I gotta get a tamper proof torx bit tomorrow I guess unless someone else has a better idea. Does anyone know what size bit that is?

**kg4kzv** · 06-28-2007, 10:12 PM

I'll look at mine but I think that it goes lock,acc,run,start. I got a tamper proof bit set from harbor freight if you have one close.

Chris

**kg4kzv** · 06-28-2007, 10:55 PM

Ok it's clear that I own too much junk but it looks like this Acc lock off run start. Acc is key turned backwards from lock. I was going to look in my owners manual but a new windshield leak messed up everything in the glove box

.
Chris

mfinkler · 07-11-2007, 04:08 PM

OK I got the ignition switch in with no problems. I ran my AC and I'll tell ya those first two wires still get pretty warm as does the switch. The blower motor seems to work fine. The higher I set the blower motor the more things warm up. I have not ran it on high yet for long to see if the smoke returns yet but do you think it's normal for these two wires to be getting so warm and heating up the switch?

06-27-2007, 07:20 PM	#6
RickyN29 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 1,487 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	Yep, common problem. The dinky ignition switch provides a mechanical electrical connection for a lot of high drain devices. As everything ages, the wires corrode and the resistance goes up. This means more current is necessary. The ign switch heats up and melts/burns/smokes. __________________ 1990 XJ Laredo 4x4 Auto Rusty's ~6" Lift Dana30/Dana44 3.55's Pacer Wheels/High-Tec Retreads 31" MT KargoMaster Safari Rack CSF Open Cooling System Conversion Hayden Tranny Cooler Flowmaster 40 Delta & High-Flo Cat PORC SYE / FRT DS Combo *The Doors are off again for summer!

06-27-2007, 06:44 PM	#4
mfinkler Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: georgia Posts: 161 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	OK I do see now that it is part of the ignition switch. Do you think something with the A/C is causing the problem or just a switch going bad and when I have the blower on high it somehow causes more drain on that switch? I would hate to put a new one in and have the A/C blow it out too. Does the switch just slide out over the lock cylinder? It looks like there is only 4 torx screws holding it in right?

06-28-2007, 03:55 PM	#10
mfinkler Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: georgia Posts: 161 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	Ok I bought an ignition switch today. Here's what the instructions state for removing the cylinder 1. With key inserted and cylinder in LOCK position depress retaining pin 2. Rotate key clockwise to the OFF 3. Rotate key counterclockwise to the LOCK position 4. Remove key and cylinder. My question is: Is the LOCK position the position just ahead of off. If I turn the key clockwise from OFF but stop before any light's or fuel pump kicks on is that LOCK?

06-28-2007, 08:15 PM	#12
mfinkler Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: georgia Posts: 161 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	I have not taken it out yet. I got to get a tamper proof torx bit to get the screws out. Mine does have the screw instead of a pin also. If LOCK is when your steering wheel is locked what is OFF. My steering wheel locks when I turn the key off. I beleive LOCK is the next position up because you can see the cylinder back out a bit in that position. Anyway I gotta get a tamper proof torx bit tomorrow I guess unless someone else has a better idea. Does anyone know what size bit that is?

07-11-2007, 04:08 PM	#15
mfinkler Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: georgia Posts: 161 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	OK I got the ignition switch in with no problems. I ran my AC and I'll tell ya those first two wires still get pretty warm as does the switch. The blower motor seems to work fine. The higher I set the blower motor the more things warm up. I have not ran it on high yet for long to see if the smoke returns yet but do you think it's normal for these two wires to be getting so warm and heating up the switch?