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Unread 04-13-2014, 09:01 PM   #1
jeepster383
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Slow ford taurus fan install

I will be replacing my mechanical fan with the electric fan from a 90-95 ford taurus fan in my 91 cherokee 4.0.
Main reason is to beter cool the engine at slow trail speeds in California's 95 degree plus weather. Last summer on some trails I would see 220+ coolent temps. Plus the possible small mpg/ power increase.
I've a read few write ups and will be as detailed as I can doing this one.

First off is I decided not to go the junkyard route I got my fan off eBay for like 78$. Man this fan is huge and pretty heavy.


image-1861582915.jpg


Also purchased 2 60 amp relays, 210 on 195 off temp switch and a switch for the fan all off eBay.

image-1616819362.jpg

The fan on the switch should light up green when on I need figure out how it works still tho.
This jeep is my daily driver and I will be doing all the wiring first. Plan so far is to have the fan run on low off the coolent temp switch and have high switched Manually when needed.
So I basicly will have, auto/off/ high
I wired up this fan to the battery when I got it and I'm impressed with how much air it will move.
I will also be focusing on directing cool air through the radiator.
Hope to start the wiring this week.
I also allready have a die hard AGM battery and upgraded grand cherokee 136 amp alternator.

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Unread 04-13-2014, 10:38 PM   #2
RockRodHooligan
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Why relays instead of the volvo fan controller?
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=200028




It's used for the dual speed volvo fan, that is about identical to the Taurus fan, minus the shroud.

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Unread 04-13-2014, 11:29 PM   #3
jeepster383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockRodHooligan
Why relays instead of the volvo fan controller? http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=200028 It's used for the dual speed volvo fan, that is about identical to the Taurus fan, minus the shroud.
I've seen that but the way ima do it I guees relays are just Easyer. If I was going to wire both speeds off a tepature switch I'd use that since itl kill power to the low when high kicks on correct?
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Unread 04-14-2014, 08:43 AM   #4
HighLonesome
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Could you post links to the temp switches please?

If you need any help wiring it up, PM me. I've done quite a few.
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Unread 04-14-2014, 09:00 AM   #5
jeepster383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighLonesome
Could you post links to the temp switches please? If you need any help wiring it up, PM me. I've done quite a few.
okay thanks I'm tryin to figure out how to link
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Unread 04-14-2014, 09:05 AM   #6
HighLonesome
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Just copy the URLs and paste them in a reply. Thanks
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Unread 04-14-2014, 09:25 AM   #7
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Unread 04-14-2014, 09:26 PM   #8
RockRodHooligan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepster383 View Post
I've seen that but the way ima do it I guees relays are just Easyer. If I was going to wire both speeds off a tepature switch I'd use that since itl kill power to the low when high kicks on correct?
Correct, but be warned I've heard a lot of guys having issues burning out relays, that's why a lot of guys use the Volvo controller, it was designed to run this fan.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apex View Post
Penis inches...
Good god man. Indyorv :rofl: d**k and fart jokes. :rofl:
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Unread 04-14-2014, 11:36 PM   #9
jeepster383
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I'm still tryin to figure out the linking thing off my eBay app.
Thanks for looking out. I think ima try to make the. Relays triger by ground instead of power to make it last longer. But will see I still gota draw out my wiring diagram
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Unread 04-15-2014, 12:53 AM   #10
jeepster383
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Ok what I did today and what doesn't work.
Installing a 3/8 T on the thermostat. One side for the ECU sensor and one for my aftermarket coolent tepature gauge. When I moved my gauge sender from adapter fitting on my upper radiator hose to here the tempature read like 30 degrees cooler. So the T idea failed probly beacuse not in the coolent flow.

image-1227153845.jpg

So here is where my tepature switch will be for the E fan will be. (Upper radiator hose)


image-2653112796.jpg

Next I got rid of my T fitting on the thermostat and put back to normal. Then removed my idiot coolent light sender on the rear of the head and installed my aftermarket temp sender 1/8 NPT. Works perfect there. So no more idiot light for me.

image-838482003.jpg



image-1416085343.jpg

So I have my temp gauge reading correct and my electric fan switch ready to wire.
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Unread 04-15-2014, 07:46 AM   #11
RockRodHooligan
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Hell, if I would have known you didn't have a gauge I would have recommend this:
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugede...id=3872&sid=60
Works as a gauge with programmable high and low control points, like for the Taurus fan, gauge and temp switch in one
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apex View Post
Penis inches...
Good god man. Indyorv :rofl: d**k and fart jokes. :rofl:
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Unread 04-15-2014, 08:59 AM   #12
jeepster383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockRodHooligan
Hell, if I would have known you didn't have a gauge I would have recommend this: http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugede...id=3872&sid=60 Works as a gauge with programmable high and low control points, like for the Taurus fan, gauge and temp switch in one
dang that would be nice to have so I could just have one sender
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Unread 04-15-2014, 09:22 AM   #13
HighLonesome
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepster383 View Post
Relays triger by ground instead of power to make it last longer.
Use freewheeling diodes too. You can see what you need on this diagram. (yes I know the circuit can be improved upon, but it works well )
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/attac...c-efanhigh.jpg
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Unread 04-16-2014, 08:51 AM   #14
HighLonesome
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The diodes do two things...they keep the relay contacts from arcing when they open and close, so the contacts oxidize slower. And when the fan is off and you're moving and it's spinning, it acts as a generator. The diodes shunt that current to ground and keep it from flowing back through your circuit.
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Unread 04-16-2014, 02:50 PM   #15
jeepster383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighLonesome
The diodes do two things...they keep the relay contacts from arcing when they open and close, so the contacts oxidize slower. And when the fan is off and you're moving and it's spinning, it acts as a generator. The diodes shunt that current to ground and keep it from flowing back through your circuit.
How do the diodes keep the realay from arcing? I'm all for making the relay last longer. That's y I was going to have the ground switch in the relay but seems impossible with a 2 speed fan and 2 relays
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