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Unread 07-04-2006, 11:31 PM   #1
OFFCHAMBERXJ
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Slip Yoke Eliminator

Ok I Am Putting A 6" On The Xj And I Know That I Need A Sye. Am I Going To Need A New Drive Shaft To Go Along With That. Or Can I Skip The Sye And Just Get A Cv Drive Shaft

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Unread 07-04-2006, 11:43 PM   #2
Glazzed
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you need the sye to install the cv drive shaft. this is what the new shaft looks like. notice how it connects at the transfer case. this if how your stock shaft looks like. see the difference?
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Unread 07-04-2006, 11:57 PM   #3
OFFCHAMBERXJ
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Thanks

That Is What Was Confusing Me "you Need Both"
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Unread 07-05-2006, 02:21 AM   #4
youngwon22
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The stock DS will pull out if you flex a lot or have a leaf warp, because it is basically just On the shaft of Transfer Case with a clamp, it'd be worse if you had 96 or older because it may cause leakage from the Transfer Case.

You get a hack-n-tap that bolts on to your TC shaft, then bolts on to the CV DS which obviously has better handling with greater angles (the angle of your DS and the TC due to that extra joint CV shafts have)
So with Hack-n-tap and the CV shaft, you can flex all you want w/o worrying about your driveshaft falling out, which increases the angle between the DS and TC, and the distance between your axle and the chasis.

I guess you could just do one or the other, but it probably won't satisfy you on a long run
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Unread 07-05-2006, 12:32 PM   #5
conrasm
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Yeah, You need a SYE to run the CV style driveshaft on you XJ. The stock setup is like many rear wheel drive vehicles...the rear driveshaft has a yoke that slips over the splined end of the transfer case output shaft. The older XJ's had an exterior seal that mated to the driveshaft...bad if you overflex and pull the driveshaft out b/c your fluid can leak out. The newer style incorporated a seal before the end of the output shaft so the driveshaft could be removed without all the fluid leaking out (see above pic).

My recommendations are:

If you have the newer XJ (97+) with the transfer case that is sealed and you are on a tight budget, then go with the hack 'n tap b/c it is cheaperr than a complete HD SYE (like advance adapters style). Although you will still need to get the adapter plate to use the front XJ driveshaft. It runs about $50 or so at NAPA.

If you have the pre-97 style, then I would suggest a complete HD SYE b/c it will be cheaper than than the hack n' tap for that style b/c the hack 'n tap is about the same price, plus you have to get the adapter plate, which puts it well beyond the price of the HD SYE.

I would go with the PORC (http://www.performanceoffroadcenter.com) SYE if you are looking for the heavy duty setup. It comes with a new main shaft for the TC and the install isn't that bad, although it may sound scary on paper.

My other question would be if you are getting a true 6" lift, as in, it will sit at 6" when on vehicle, or are you getting a lift that is advertised for 6" of lift, which means it could sit higher, which most lift do. If you think your end lift will be 6", then you could even use the front driveshaft from an XJ (which has a CV joint) and save yourelf some money over having a custom one made.

I have 6" of lift on my XJ from my 4.5" RE superflex kit and I installed the the PORC SYE and went to the junk yard and got a front DS from a late model XJ for $75 (some guys get them cheaper than that depending on your area) and did the whole thing for about $270 (after buying some tools, fluids, and RTV sealer.
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Unread 07-05-2006, 02:31 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by conrasm
If you think your end lift will be 6", then you could even use the front driveshaft from an XJ (which has a CV joint) and save yourelf some money over having a custom one made.
It has to be from an Automatic XJ, remember that when you go boneyard diggin for one, they are only $10 at mine
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Unread 07-05-2006, 02:34 PM   #7
conrasm
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And any year from 88+ will work. They were all the same from then on, so long as it's from a 4.0, AW4 auto.

$10!! Man, the bone yards around me and way too expensive. I couldn't find one for under $75, and they didn't give you a discount for older ones with more miles.

IMO, a total of 6" of lift is as high as I would go with the stock shaft. Any higher and I'd recommend a custom made one.
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Unread 07-05-2006, 03:45 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepin_XJ_101
It has to be from an Automatic XJ, remember that when you go boneyard diggin for one, they are only $10 at mine
and you have to have a C8.25 for it, D35 axles won't work with a front DS
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Unread 07-05-2006, 03:53 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youngwon22
and you have to have a C8.25 for it, D35 axles won't work with a front DS
Yes they will. The pinion on a D35 is shorter than the 8.25", so the amount of lift that a front DS will work for might be slightly different, but a front DS will bolt right up to any factory rear axle on an XJ... D35, 8.25", or D44.
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Unread 07-17-2006, 07:18 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by conrasm
Yeah, You need a SYE to run the CV style driveshaft on you XJ. The stock setup is like many rear wheel drive vehicles...the rear driveshaft has a yoke that slips over the splined end of the transfer case output shaft. The older XJ's had an exterior seal that mated to the driveshaft...bad if you overflex and pull the driveshaft out b/c your fluid can leak out. The newer style incorporated a seal before the end of the output shaft so the driveshaft could be removed without all the fluid leaking out (see above pic).

My recommendations are:

If you have the newer XJ (97+) with the transfer case that is sealed and you are on a tight budget, then go with the hack 'n tap b/c it is cheaperr than a complete HD SYE (like advance adapters style). Although you will still need to get the adapter plate to use the front XJ driveshaft. It runs about $50 or so at NAPA.

If you have the pre-97 style, then I would suggest a complete HD SYE b/c it will be cheaper than than the hack n' tap for that style b/c the hack 'n tap is about the same price, plus you have to get the adapter plate, which puts it well beyond the price of the HD SYE.

I would go with the PORC (http://www.performanceoffroadcenter.com) SYE if you are looking for the heavy duty setup. It comes with a new main shaft for the TC and the install isn't that bad, although it may sound scary on paper.

My other question would be if you are getting a true 6" lift, as in, it will sit at 6" when on vehicle, or are you getting a lift that is advertised for 6" of lift, which means it could sit higher, which most lift do. If you think your end lift will be 6", then you could even use the front driveshaft from an XJ (which has a CV joint) and save yourelf some money over having a custom one made.

I have 6" of lift on my XJ from my 4.5" RE superflex kit and I installed the the PORC SYE and went to the junk yard and got a front DS from a late model XJ for $75 (some guys get them cheaper than that depending on your area) and did the whole thing for about $270 (after buying some tools, fluids, and RTV sealer.
Im about to install a Rustys 6.5" lift. Will this solution work for me and do you happen to have the adapter plate part number handy? Are there any drawbacks to using this method as opposed to spending the extra cash for the A/A unit?
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Unread 07-17-2006, 07:43 PM   #11
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I am looking to get a 6 inch lift soon, what kind of steering upgrades are needed?
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Unread 07-19-2006, 03:00 PM   #12
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Anyone have an answer to my question above?
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Unread 03-23-2010, 12:23 AM   #13
Jeepedo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OBXJ View Post
Anyone have an answer to my question above?
well i dono your feelings about cutting into your rear shaft, but ive been doin my research on this whole slip yoke eliminator and ive found a couple facts on both.
1 the Hack n' tap is cheaper but unless you know how to cut the rear shaft perfectly straight, drill a hole straight, and tap threads in it, you should probably steer clear of this way. b/c if you dont get these straight then you will get drive line vibes.

2 the hack n' tap, if done right, is just as strong and reliable as the sye kit.

For driveline choices, it differs from every jeep. depending on what type of pinion and lift you have is what will really decide if you can use a stock front xj drive line. if i remember right, correct me if im wrong, but 97-99 with c8.25 have high pinion and in 00-01 they went to low pinion. older years or newer years with ABS with the d35 have a high pinion as well.

but i found out that if the xj front drive line is too short for your jeep, than a zj front driveline is a little bit longer and will work for higher jeeps. personally i would go with the sye kit, to me they just sound better in the long run, and im not to good with cutting straight, Kindergarten teacher tried to explain it to me but i could never figure that one out.

so hopefully i helped with your decision making,

good luck

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Unread 03-23-2010, 07:35 AM   #14
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Holy old threads batman!

To clarify a few of the above statements, all XJs thru '99 have a HP D30 front end. All 00-01 have the LP D30. Both the D35 and 8.25" rear axles were used thru 2001, and while ABS guaranteed getting the D35, nothing guaranteed getting the 8.25" (I had an 01 with the D35).

The hack n tap kits are SYE kits, they're just not heavy duty sye kits like the short shaft kits from JB Conversions, Rugged Ridge, AA, etc.
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Unread 03-23-2010, 07:36 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepedo View Post
well i dono your feelings about cutting into your rear shaft, but ive been doin my research on this whole slip yoke eliminator and ive found a couple facts on both.
1 the Hack n' tap is cheaper but unless you know how to cut the rear shaft perfectly straight, drill a hole straight, and tap threads in it, you should probably steer clear of this way. b/c if you dont get these straight then you will get drive line vibes.

2 the hack n' tap, if done right, is just as strong and reliable as the sye kit.
That's some good advice. Keep in mind that you could also just measure the length you want and take it to a machine shop to have it cut and drilled for you. That would ensure that it was as straight as could be.

Another option is to buy a hack 'n tap kit from Tom Woods (I think). They send you the hack 'n tap pre-installed on a new rear output shaft. All you have to do is install it and send back your old one as a core charge.

Either of these options may /will add some expense, but this isn't something you want to screw up. Personally, I spent the money on an AA short shaft kit and I would definitely do it again.
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