Seized/Tight as heck/Won't come out np231 drain/fill bolts... - JeepForum.com
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Unread 10-13-2009, 02:51 PM   #1
XJMuscle98
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Seized/Tight as heck/Won't come out np231 drain/fill bolts...

Ugh, I finally decide to change the tcase fluid and they won't come out.

Any ideas?

I'm all out of PB Blaster and can't go anywhere right now so thats out of the question.

If I cut off part of my hex key and fit it into a 10mm socket, and then put it on the impact wrench will that be bad?

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1998 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L AW4/NP231 211k+

"Approximately 80 percent of our air pollution stems from hydrocarbons released by vegetation, so let's not go overboard in setting and enforcing tough emission standards from man-made sources."
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My goal is to have 20 lights around my XJ.

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Unread 10-13-2009, 02:54 PM   #2
JGriff99xj
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Be careful with the impact, the case is aluminum. Try driving it for a bit to get the case good and warm. Take an ice cube and touch it to the drain bolts to make them cold. Then try it. We used to use hot and cold for things like this all the time and it usually works.
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Unread 10-13-2009, 02:55 PM   #3
XJMuscle98
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Thats what I was worried about breaking something with the impact so I figured I'd ask.

It's warm right now from a 10 minute drive, not hot but warm.

I reckon they haven't been loosened in damn near 215k either.
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1998 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L AW4/NP231 211k+

"Approximately 80 percent of our air pollution stems from hydrocarbons released by vegetation, so let's not go overboard in setting and enforcing tough emission standards from man-made sources."
Ronald Reagan

My goal is to have 20 lights around my XJ.

Currently: 10
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Unread 10-13-2009, 03:17 PM   #4
leftlanetruckin
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hmmmm maybe I am just having a blonde day, but the drain plug on every 231 I have worked on was a 1 3/16" bolt, not a hex head. Maybe that is why you are having problems! The drain plug is under and to the left of the fill plug.

Martin
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1998 XJ on 37's.JK Rubi axles with chromo shafts and ctm's, 4:1 transfer case, etc etc etc.The Cherylkee....
2003 Range Rover HSE, 4.4 Quad Cam.
1998 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
2000 4.7 4WD WJ with a rebuilt motor.
4.3/700r4/new frame buildup (YJ)....
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/swap-offically-underway-324622/

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Unread 10-13-2009, 03:18 PM   #5
XJMuscle98
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some 231s its hex some its a bolt.
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1998 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L AW4/NP231 211k+

"Approximately 80 percent of our air pollution stems from hydrocarbons released by vegetation, so let's not go overboard in setting and enforcing tough emission standards from man-made sources."
Ronald Reagan

My goal is to have 20 lights around my XJ.

Currently: 10
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Unread 10-13-2009, 03:19 PM   #6
Diamond-x
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Some are 1-3/16, some are hex. Go figure.
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Unread 10-13-2009, 03:22 PM   #7
leftlanetruckin
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Guess I have been lucky then.
@6 231j's and 2 231c's....always been a 1 3/16" bolt, same as fill plug.

Martin
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1998 XJ on 37's.JK Rubi axles with chromo shafts and ctm's, 4:1 transfer case, etc etc etc.The Cherylkee....
2003 Range Rover HSE, 4.4 Quad Cam.
1998 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
2000 4.7 4WD WJ with a rebuilt motor.
4.3/700r4/new frame buildup (YJ)....
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324622

Years to gain the hands on experience, and offer it freely.
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Unread 10-13-2009, 03:25 PM   #8
XJMuscle98
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That makes me angry.

Why the hell do I have to have a hex bolt
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1998 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L AW4/NP231 211k+

"Approximately 80 percent of our air pollution stems from hydrocarbons released by vegetation, so let's not go overboard in setting and enforcing tough emission standards from man-made sources."
Ronald Reagan

My goal is to have 20 lights around my XJ.

Currently: 10
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Unread 10-13-2009, 03:27 PM   #9
leftlanetruckin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XJMuscle98 View Post
That makes me angry.

Why the hell do I have to have a hex bolt
not a clue, but if so, then do NOT hit it with the impact, it will probably shatter the t/case!
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1998 XJ on 37's.JK Rubi axles with chromo shafts and ctm's, 4:1 transfer case, etc etc etc.The Cherylkee....
2003 Range Rover HSE, 4.4 Quad Cam.
1998 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
2000 4.7 4WD WJ with a rebuilt motor.
4.3/700r4/new frame buildup (YJ)....
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324622

Years to gain the hands on experience, and offer it freely.
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Unread 10-13-2009, 03:35 PM   #10
XJMuscle98
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thought so, I've given up for the mean time...

if I can atleast get the fill bolt out then I can just suck it out
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1998 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L AW4/NP231 211k+

"Approximately 80 percent of our air pollution stems from hydrocarbons released by vegetation, so let's not go overboard in setting and enforcing tough emission standards from man-made sources."
Ronald Reagan

My goal is to have 20 lights around my XJ.

Currently: 10
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Unread 10-13-2009, 03:35 PM   #11
JGriff99xj
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Use plenty of penetrating oil. When trying to get something steel out of aluminum it can be a PITA! I have some CRC FREEZE OFF that i have to sometimes use. On the wife's 04 GC i had to take a propane torch to the rotors and use the freeze off on the hub center to get the old, warped rotors off. Temperature can be your friend in this case. Oh and i forgot to mention that trying to tighten a stubborn bolt and then trying to loosen it will sometimes work. At least it helps to get the penetrant in.
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Unread 10-13-2009, 03:37 PM   #12
leftlanetruckin
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I use a 12 volt extraction pump for the jet ski's we have as they have no drain hole for the engine oil. That would work good for the t/case.
I got mine from Bass Pro, under $25 IIRC.

Martin
__________________
1998 XJ on 37's.JK Rubi axles with chromo shafts and ctm's, 4:1 transfer case, etc etc etc.The Cherylkee....
2003 Range Rover HSE, 4.4 Quad Cam.
1998 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
2000 4.7 4WD WJ with a rebuilt motor.
4.3/700r4/new frame buildup (YJ)....
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324622

Years to gain the hands on experience, and offer it freely.
Minutes to gain the knowledge from the internet, and quote it just as freely.
Choose wisely!
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Unread 10-13-2009, 04:06 PM   #13
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allways use a breaker bar myself, never have problems. (current one is a 2ft long pipe from a vacuum cleaner). if the breaker bar bends, then i know it is torqued way too much and move to the heat cold.

did have to use the heat/cold on a rail bolt when i added the tc drop though, but no way to get a wrench on it, had to use vicegrips.
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Unread 10-13-2009, 04:06 PM   #14
Diamond-x
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Heat and cold should work. Did you try the ice cube trick? or if you have a can of keyboard cleaner for a computer, if you turn it upside-down the propellant comes out and will freeze anything it hits. Run your car and hit it with that before breaking it loose.
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Unread 10-13-2009, 04:11 PM   #15
XJMuscle98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diamond-x View Post
Heat and cold should work. Did you try the ice cube trick? or if you have a can of keyboard cleaner for a computer, if you turn it upside-down the propellant comes out and will freeze anything it hits. Run your car and hit it with that before breaking it loose.
I do have one of them!

I'll try that tomorrow, thanks!

Well tomorrow or whenever I muster up enough initiative to try again.
__________________
1998 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L AW4/NP231 211k+

"Approximately 80 percent of our air pollution stems from hydrocarbons released by vegetation, so let's not go overboard in setting and enforcing tough emission standards from man-made sources."
Ronald Reagan

My goal is to have 20 lights around my XJ.

Currently: 10
XJMuscle98 is offline   Reply With Quote
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