Seized/Tight as heck/Won't come out np231 drain/fill bolts... - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 17 Old 10-13-2009, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
XJMuscle98
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Seized/Tight as heck/Won't come out np231 drain/fill bolts...

Ugh, I finally decide to change the tcase fluid and they won't come out.

Any ideas?

I'm all out of PB Blaster and can't go anywhere right now so thats out of the question.

If I cut off part of my hex key and fit it into a 10mm socket, and then put it on the impact wrench will that be bad?


1998 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L AW4/NP231 211k+

"Approximately 80 percent of our air pollution stems from hydrocarbons released by vegetation, so let's not go overboard in setting and enforcing tough emission standards from man-made sources."
Ronald Reagan

My goal is to have 20 lights around my XJ.

Currently: 10
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post #2 of 17 Old 10-13-2009, 02:54 PM
JGriff99xj
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Be careful with the impact, the case is aluminum. Try driving it for a bit to get the case good and warm. Take an ice cube and touch it to the drain bolts to make them cold. Then try it. We used to use hot and cold for things like this all the time and it usually works.
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post #3 of 17 Old 10-13-2009, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
XJMuscle98
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Thats what I was worried about breaking something with the impact so I figured I'd ask.

It's warm right now from a 10 minute drive, not hot but warm.

I reckon they haven't been loosened in damn near 215k either.

1998 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L AW4/NP231 211k+

"Approximately 80 percent of our air pollution stems from hydrocarbons released by vegetation, so let's not go overboard in setting and enforcing tough emission standards from man-made sources."
Ronald Reagan

My goal is to have 20 lights around my XJ.

Currently: 10
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post #4 of 17 Old 10-13-2009, 03:17 PM
leftlanetruckin
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hmmmm maybe I am just having a blonde day, but the drain plug on every 231 I have worked on was a 1 3/16" bolt, not a hex head. Maybe that is why you are having problems! The drain plug is under and to the left of the fill plug.

Martin

1998 XJ on 37's.JK Rubi axles with chromo shafts and ctm's, 4:1 transfer case, etc etc etc.
2003 Range Rover HSE, 4.4 Quad Cam.
1998 Range Rover with a 6.0 LSx
1994 YJ, 4.3/700R4/OME SOA, etc
Western Star 4900EX 4 axle.
4.3/700r4/new frame buildup (YJ)....
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/swap-offically-underway-324622/
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post #5 of 17 Old 10-13-2009, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
XJMuscle98
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some 231s its hex some its a bolt.

1998 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L AW4/NP231 211k+

"Approximately 80 percent of our air pollution stems from hydrocarbons released by vegetation, so let's not go overboard in setting and enforcing tough emission standards from man-made sources."
Ronald Reagan

My goal is to have 20 lights around my XJ.

Currently: 10
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post #6 of 17 Old 10-13-2009, 03:19 PM
Diamond-x
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Some are 1-3/16, some are hex. Go figure.
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post #7 of 17 Old 10-13-2009, 03:22 PM
leftlanetruckin
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Guess I have been lucky then.
@6 231j's and 2 231c's....always been a 1 3/16" bolt, same as fill plug.

Martin

1998 XJ on 37's.JK Rubi axles with chromo shafts and ctm's, 4:1 transfer case, etc etc etc.
2003 Range Rover HSE, 4.4 Quad Cam.
1998 Range Rover with a 6.0 LSx
1994 YJ, 4.3/700R4/OME SOA, etc
Western Star 4900EX 4 axle.
4.3/700r4/new frame buildup (YJ)....
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324622
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post #8 of 17 Old 10-13-2009, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
XJMuscle98
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That makes me angry.

Why the hell do I have to have a hex bolt

1998 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L AW4/NP231 211k+

"Approximately 80 percent of our air pollution stems from hydrocarbons released by vegetation, so let's not go overboard in setting and enforcing tough emission standards from man-made sources."
Ronald Reagan

My goal is to have 20 lights around my XJ.

Currently: 10
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post #9 of 17 Old 10-13-2009, 03:27 PM
leftlanetruckin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XJMuscle98 View Post
That makes me angry.

Why the hell do I have to have a hex bolt
not a clue, but if so, then do NOT hit it with the impact, it will probably shatter the t/case!

1998 XJ on 37's.JK Rubi axles with chromo shafts and ctm's, 4:1 transfer case, etc etc etc.
2003 Range Rover HSE, 4.4 Quad Cam.
1998 Range Rover with a 6.0 LSx
1994 YJ, 4.3/700R4/OME SOA, etc
Western Star 4900EX 4 axle.
4.3/700r4/new frame buildup (YJ)....
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324622
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post #10 of 17 Old 10-13-2009, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
XJMuscle98
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thought so, I've given up for the mean time...

if I can atleast get the fill bolt out then I can just suck it out

1998 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L AW4/NP231 211k+

"Approximately 80 percent of our air pollution stems from hydrocarbons released by vegetation, so let's not go overboard in setting and enforcing tough emission standards from man-made sources."
Ronald Reagan

My goal is to have 20 lights around my XJ.

Currently: 10
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post #11 of 17 Old 10-13-2009, 03:35 PM
JGriff99xj
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Use plenty of penetrating oil. When trying to get something steel out of aluminum it can be a PITA! I have some CRC FREEZE OFF that i have to sometimes use. On the wife's 04 GC i had to take a propane torch to the rotors and use the freeze off on the hub center to get the old, warped rotors off. Temperature can be your friend in this case. Oh and i forgot to mention that trying to tighten a stubborn bolt and then trying to loosen it will sometimes work. At least it helps to get the penetrant in.
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post #12 of 17 Old 10-13-2009, 03:37 PM
leftlanetruckin
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I use a 12 volt extraction pump for the jet ski's we have as they have no drain hole for the engine oil. That would work good for the t/case.
I got mine from Bass Pro, under $25 IIRC.

Martin

1998 XJ on 37's.JK Rubi axles with chromo shafts and ctm's, 4:1 transfer case, etc etc etc.
2003 Range Rover HSE, 4.4 Quad Cam.
1998 Range Rover with a 6.0 LSx
1994 YJ, 4.3/700R4/OME SOA, etc
Western Star 4900EX 4 axle.
4.3/700r4/new frame buildup (YJ)....
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324622
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post #13 of 17 Old 10-13-2009, 04:06 PM
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allways use a breaker bar myself, never have problems. (current one is a 2ft long pipe from a vacuum cleaner). if the breaker bar bends, then i know it is torqued way too much and move to the heat cold.

did have to use the heat/cold on a rail bolt when i added the tc drop though, but no way to get a wrench on it, had to use vicegrips.

"To learn who rules over you, simply find out who you are not allowed to criticize.”
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post #14 of 17 Old 10-13-2009, 04:06 PM
Diamond-x
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Heat and cold should work. Did you try the ice cube trick? or if you have a can of keyboard cleaner for a computer, if you turn it upside-down the propellant comes out and will freeze anything it hits. Run your car and hit it with that before breaking it loose.
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post #15 of 17 Old 10-13-2009, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
XJMuscle98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diamond-x View Post
Heat and cold should work. Did you try the ice cube trick? or if you have a can of keyboard cleaner for a computer, if you turn it upside-down the propellant comes out and will freeze anything it hits. Run your car and hit it with that before breaking it loose.
I do have one of them!

I'll try that tomorrow, thanks!

Well tomorrow or whenever I muster up enough initiative to try again.

1998 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L AW4/NP231 211k+

"Approximately 80 percent of our air pollution stems from hydrocarbons released by vegetation, so let's not go overboard in setting and enforcing tough emission standards from man-made sources."
Ronald Reagan

My goal is to have 20 lights around my XJ.

Currently: 10
XJMuscle98 is offline  
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