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Unread 09-14-2010, 12:45 AM   #1
michla
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1989 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Wasilla, AK
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Secrets of bleeding clutch slave

Did anybody have this much trouble bleeding clutch hydraulic system??

I've tried suction and pressure bleeding. Not getting any pedal except for the return spring at the pedal.

Fresh engine rebuild using all new clutch components on a '89 Cherokee XJ with 4.0. Peugot trans. Sachs pressure plate (reconditioned trade), NAPA slave. Clutch master worked fine prior to engine removal, hydraulic lines completely drained upon old slave removal, of course. No fluid leaks with new. Air bubbles coming from hose nil.

Any feedback appreciated. thx

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Unread 09-14-2010, 07:13 AM   #2
Mikeand
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It takes ALOT of pumping to get the fluid and air out, id say keep at it.
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1996 Cherokee Sport -4.6L Stroker, TB Spacer, Cold Air Intake, APN Header - D30 front / 8.25 Rear -RC 3" Lift -Dakota Leaf Pack -Rough Country Discos / -31" General Grabber A/T2s on 15x8 Cragar Soft 8s -Diamond plate rear quarter panels -Front bumper with hoop - IRO Double shear Track Bar and HD tie rod -Homemade light bar
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Unread 09-14-2010, 08:24 AM   #3
michla
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that bad, huh ?
I was thinking someone was going to tell me I have to bench-bleed (remove) the master cylinder
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Unread 09-14-2010, 08:27 AM   #4
Mikeand
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Yeah just did it on a buddys xj, after a long time of working the pedal, the fluid started to come. Though I have heard people have problems with it..
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1996 Cherokee Sport -4.6L Stroker, TB Spacer, Cold Air Intake, APN Header - D30 front / 8.25 Rear -RC 3" Lift -Dakota Leaf Pack -Rough Country Discos / -31" General Grabber A/T2s on 15x8 Cragar Soft 8s -Diamond plate rear quarter panels -Front bumper with hoop - IRO Double shear Track Bar and HD tie rod -Homemade light bar
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Unread 09-14-2010, 08:28 AM   #5
PiKapp504
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Have you tried to reverse bleed it? If you have access to a vacuum bleeder (used for brake systems), that may expedite the process and ensure there's no air in the line. Also, if you have a Harbor Freight nearby, they have the hand vacuum bleeders that work VERY well; just connect it to the bleeder valve, pump it up to create a vacuum, open bleeder valve, and suck all new fluid down. Just make sure the reservoir doesn't go dry and you should be good to go.
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Unread 09-14-2010, 08:36 AM   #6
michla
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HHmmm...reverse bleed, eh? Interesting...
Yes, I have and used the hand vac pump...alot.
Also devised 20psi pressure bleed using modified reservoir cap.
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Unread 09-14-2010, 08:44 AM   #7
PiKapp504
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Yeah, a reverse bleed is where you push the fluid up from the slave cylinder, back up into the reservoir. Some prefer to do it that way, others prefer the manual way, and others like the vacuum method. Just depends on a) how much of a hurry you're in and b) if you have the $$$ to spend on the vacuum/pressure tools.
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Unread 09-14-2010, 08:51 AM   #8
michla
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OR how much $$ you want to spend on BRAKE FLUID ! that stuff is getting more expensive everyday.
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Unread 09-14-2010, 08:53 AM   #9
PiKapp504
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Just regular DOT3 should be sufficient for the clutch. In my Honda, since I road-race w/ it, I'm about to upgrade to Super Blue fluid. Yeah, it's about $25 for 2 quarts, but it's some gooooood sh*t!
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Unread 09-14-2010, 11:10 AM   #10
michla
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$25 for 2 quarts isn't bad at all !

He*l, the generic garbage at Napa stores (made by Mac, might as well be Prestone) costs $9.00/quart now !!! Go figure.
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Unread 09-14-2010, 11:16 AM   #11
PiKapp504
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Ok, so I think I had the price wrong...my bad. It's $12/litre through TireRack (which is still DAMN good). http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/acces...tail.jsp?ID=21 My buddy uses this in his race car and I'm about to switch to it as well...probably replaced the "new" XJ's brake fluid with it as well. Not trying to promote this stuff, but I have experience with it and I won't lie...it's damn good stuff!
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Unread 09-14-2010, 01:24 PM   #12
TwistedcaB-
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yeah i just did my master and it was the BIGGEST PITA!!!! i hope i dont have too do that for a LONGGG time!!
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Unread 09-14-2010, 11:58 PM   #13
michla
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UPDATE: it's done !

Pressure-bled modifying a donor clutch master cylinder cap with an air-pressure quick disconnect fitting and 2 inch diameter, 3/16 cross-section oring instead of the rubber diaphram gasket. No more than 20psi using air-pressure regulator so as to not blow cap off.

Part of the problem was that my worn disc and thus pressure plate leverage before this rebuild/replacement had me in disbelief I was really getting any pedal with the new setup. For cripes sake--the comparison of how "heavy" the effort to push in the pedal clutch before the engine swap compared to the new-everything is like night and day. The new setup is so easy to depress the clutch pedal, a LITTLE, OLD LADY could drive the damd' thing! I suppose a worn disc allows the pressure plate fingers to extend further out, making the leverage-over of the diaphram spring in the pressure plate assembly all that much more travel and thus "heavier". Makes my Harley clutch hand lever seem like handling a BEAST in comparison to the effort now.....

I wasn't going to finish bolting up the top end of the engine and just start it until verification that the clutch was operable--I didn't want to have to remove the engine all over again after all that cr*p was installed !

I finally believed I got the bleeding licked when I noticed no more bubbles from the end of the drain hose and decided to give it the test by putting the trans in gear, holding the pedal down with a 2X4 braced against the seat rail and tried to wrench over the balancer bolt to turn the engine. Wow--it actually does turn over fine, no drag on the disc. Then let the clutch pedal out and try again--crank wouldn't move. So I continued bleeding a bit more just in case and all is good--I'm pleased to report.
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