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Unread 06-22-2009, 01:11 PM   #1
ntneustadt
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Rustys XJ Cherokee Long Arm Upgrade

alright i have been looking at Rustys XJ Cherokee Long Arm Upgrade. does anyone have this and any negs?

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Unread 06-22-2009, 01:18 PM   #2
ep191
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I run it, it's a decent kit.


Would I buy it again? No.


For around the same price you can get a Treks Y-link long arm system which is a much much better kit that is also bolt on. If you can weld I would go with the Rock Krawler 3 link kit though, much better than a radius arm setup.
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Unread 06-22-2009, 01:24 PM   #3
ntneustadt
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o.k but i drive mine on the road and off road, would the 3 link be o.k for on road?
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Unread 06-22-2009, 01:28 PM   #4
Jason, aka: Jeepin.com
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3-link is fine for on-road driving. Personally I'm a fan of the Treks Y-link though.
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Unread 06-22-2009, 02:00 PM   #5
1996BlackXJ
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I do not run long arms, but I have researched the possibilities in the future haha.

I think its only a $50 difference for the y-link from Treks over the Rustys long arms. Personally I would get the y-link because it has a built in belly skid that will protect your t-case, while the rustys kit does not add any protection. Plus the y-link has more fans than the rustys kit.
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Unread 06-22-2009, 02:10 PM   #6
ep191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996BlackXJ View Post
I do not run long arms, but I have researched the possibilities in the future haha.

I think its only a $50 difference for the y-link from Treks over the Rustys long arms. Personally I would get the y-link because it has a built in belly skid that will protect your t-case, while the rustys kit does not add any protection. Plus the y-link has more fans than the rustys kit.
with rusty's shipping costs, i bet the treks kit is even cheaper


I would have suggested the rock crawler triple threat 4-link, but it is more expensive. If you get the Treks y-link you will love it though, it's a great kit.
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Unread 06-22-2009, 03:17 PM   #7
xrcodeman
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any thoughts on the RE long arm upgrade i was thinking about that kit as well for my jeep
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Unread 06-22-2009, 03:35 PM   #8
99Greenmachine
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Also check out the IRO LA upgrade, I've heard A LOT of good things about it too
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Unread 06-22-2009, 03:56 PM   #9
ep191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrcodeman View Post
any thoughts on the RE long arm upgrade i was thinking about that kit as well for my jeep
Depends on the price you can find it for. It's comparable in quality to the Treks kit, but for 1k (price on the website) I would rather go with Rock Krawlers triple threat 4-link, or Full Tractions 4-link.
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Unread 06-25-2009, 11:29 PM   #10
blacklabel000
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ok so ive been thinking over the past few weeks, im trying to start on my long arms.

my question is:why should i do a 3 link vs a 4 link? it seems that all the long arm kits i see out there are either 3link or radius style.....

i have the materials for a 4link or i could just set one of the heim joints aside and do a 3 link.
i see that RK makes a 3 and 4 link.....but why? whats the advantages and disadvantages of both? is the geometry easier to deal with on the 3link? or is the 4 link for those that want the greater adjustablity?
i cant wrap my head around this guys...........

oh and BTW im setting on 35s and 6.5 and this is going to be a daily driver(if that helps any)


thanks alot-nick
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Unread 06-26-2009, 06:10 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacklabel000 View Post
ok so ive been thinking over the past few weeks, im trying to start on my long arms.

my question is:why should i do a 3 link vs a 4 link? it seems that all the long arm kits i see out there are either 3link or radius style.....

i have the materials for a 4link or i could just set one of the heim joints aside and do a 3 link.
i see that RK makes a 3 and 4 link.....but why? whats the advantages and disadvantages of both? is the geometry easier to deal with on the 3link? or is the 4 link for those that want the greater adjustablity?
i cant wrap my head around this guys...........

oh and BTW im setting on 35s and 6.5 and this is going to be a daily driver(if that helps any)


thanks alot-nick
Other than having to find/design/build a mount for a second upper arm, there's really no difference in the geometry or adjustability of a 3-link vs a 4-link. Technically speaking, a 3-link will have virtually no binding at all in the links, whereas a 4-link could -- this is RK's main claim to fame with their 3-link kits. Binding is pretty much a non-issue though unless you're running some extreme travel setup, which you're not going to have with a standard bolt-on, off-the-shelf kit for an XJ.

My understanding is that RK came out with a 4-link primarily for the prerunner/desert racer guys who want and need a 4-link for safety. With a 3-link, if any of those links fails, you're SOL. If you're bombing over whoops in the desert at highway speeds, that could end very badly. If a link fails on a 4-link, well, now you've just got a 3-link. I imagine that's the same reason why some guys prefer a 4-link kit like Full Traction or BDS over a 3-link or radius arm setup.
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'09 JKUR, RE 3.5", 37" GY MT/R-Ks, Expedition One bumpers, T&T rockers & skids, XRC10 Comp
'95 XJ, RE 5.5", 35" MT/Rs, D30 w/hubs & ARB, D44 w/Detroit, 4.56s, C4x4 bumpers, etc, etc.
'00 TJ, SOLD, wife's, RE 4.5" long-arm, 35" MT/Rs, D30+OX, D44+ARB, 4.88s, full cage, winch, C4x4 & Jeeperman bumpers, etc, etc.


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Unread 06-26-2009, 07:54 AM   #12
blacklabel000
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so not only will a 3link be easier to build, it will also have less bindage then a 4 link. cool deal.

thanks jason!
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Unread 06-26-2009, 08:18 AM   #13
tjjeepwrench978
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Well for one I have 15 years of exp, if you are gonna build something likes this, you better have a laser, good plasma, excellent eyes, and a big wallet. I saw a homade copy of a rustys long arm in my town the kid at parts america, this thing he was tryin to sell had a 6 in channel iron as a cross, and home depot racing 2 inch junk pipe and heim joints, He wants 2500, I told my frend who was looking at it I wouldnt even drive in it... for the precision you get for the money, I would get the Rustys, 900 bucks I paid just for the arms.. Mint on the road and off, 65-80 smooth on the highway 3.55s, 33 muds, Plus Ill go one more, The rustys really is only a 2 link cuz the upper caster arms go back to the main arm...Ultimate flex. The re arm plates do look kinda cheesy
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Unread 06-26-2009, 01:32 PM   #14
Starboard M
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Originally Posted by blacklabel000 View Post
so not only will a 3link be easier to build, it will also have less bindage then a 4 link. cool deal.

thanks jason!
All suspensions have some degree of binding in them, it just depends on if that binding is within the usable wheel travel you obtain.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tjjeepwrench978 View Post
Well for one I have 15 years of exp, if you are gonna build something likes this, you better have a laser, good plasma, excellent eyes, and a big wallet. I saw a homade copy of a rustys long arm in my town the kid at parts america, this thing he was tryin to sell had a 6 in channel iron as a cross, and home depot racing 2 inch junk pipe and heim joints, He wants 2500, I told my frend who was looking at it I wouldnt even drive in it... for the precision you get for the money, I would get the Rustys, 900 bucks I paid just for the arms.. Mint on the road and off, 65-80 smooth on the highway 3.55s, 33 muds, Plus Ill go one more, The rustys really is only a 2 link cuz the upper caster arms go back to the main arm...Ultimate flex. The re arm plates do look kinda cheesy
Thats so far from the truth its sad.



There are literally thousands of people making custom suspensions for all sorts of vehicles (not just offroad) that are all made well without having to buy parts from a shady vendor.

Yes, it takes more thought and effort then bolting on a lift kit, but you dont need lasers, plasmas and a huge wallet. You can do a custom suspension for almost any Jeep/Toy/etc for about the same price as a bolt on long arm suspension for an XJ.



Stop spewing BS if you dont know what your talking about.
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Unread 06-26-2009, 02:30 PM   #15
blacktj06
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Wow. Where did you get your 15 yrs of experiance? A 2-link?? wow. With all that experiance im sure 3.55's and 33's was a no brainer right?The style of radius arms in question all have the same inherant problems, unloading of the suspenion on hill climbs,and they WILL bind at some point during suspension travel ,eating upper control arm bushings on a steady basis. I really dont see those problems steering anyone away from using them,and it shouldnt. 3-links make for the best interupted travel,the RK kit is beef. Full-tractions 4-link hangs WAY down low,its what I first ran on my 89,I swapped for the rk 3-link to get away from the rock magnet lca brackets. Dont buy something cause its cheap, this is an area you do not want to cheap out on. Get in-depth in research to find out what works best for you. Its ten times more complex than just "add to cart".
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