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-   -   running the DPG/RE hybrid 5" with 36s? can it be done? (

Magic2979 07-06-2005 02:35 PM

running the DPG/RE hybrid 5" with 36s? can it be done?
i am still deciding what i want to do lift wise. but i was at a local store and i saw a lifted xj with 35s and another with 37s. they werent from my area and i waited for them to come out to there rigs but they didnt show up. i dont know what they were running for lifts. but they looked great and they didnt look like they were real high..

but do you guys think that 36s(possibly 37s) on the hybrid 5" could be done? maybe if i add spacer to the front and a bigger shackle in the rear? i have an email out to Dirk to see what he says.. i was talking to him about the re 5.5 and 37s and he said that he thought it would be to top heavy and tippsy.. and i know with 37s i have to adress more stuff. but i wont be putting the lift on until the spring probably around may so i have a long time to save up and buy all the stuff i will need :thumbsup:

Blake 07-06-2005 02:49 PM

How much are you willing to trim?

Rock Kustoms 07-06-2005 03:11 PM

once you go above 33's so much has to be adressed, your already going to need an sye, for 35's and up, you talking axles, gearing, and countless other things that are going to go wrong....

you should also look into a long arm kit at over 5" IMO

Magic2979 07-06-2005 03:44 PM

i know that i will need to adress the axels for the front i am looking at the warn hub conversion or the super 30 kit. and for the rear i am thinking of swapping in a D44 and upgrading the axle shafts..

as for long arms i plan on getting the TNT long arm upgrade..

trimming wise i dont think ill have to trim anymore than what GottaBeJeep had to do to fit his 37s when he had them.. of couase i will bump stop correctly..

i am thinking of running TSL radials but they dont come in 35s.. they go from 33s to 36s

Jason, aka: 07-06-2005 03:55 PM

Swampers are a whole different ballgame vs a regular tire, lots more stress due to the extra weight and size of a swamper vs a BFG or GY tire.

I'm still not really sure what you're building this rig for/to do... or why.

Magic2979 07-06-2005 04:14 PM

i want to make a very capable trail rig while keeping my COG as low as possible.. in my area there is more mud and water than anything. there are some rocks but not enough to do any major rock crawling...

im just not sure how i want to build my rig up. i want it to still be a good DD but i also want a kick *** trail rig.. and i want to run big tires..

each site i go to i have people telling me to build it different and i have tons of people around here telling me to build it different ways.. but most of the rigs around me are built for looks and not trail capability..

Rock Kustoms 07-06-2005 04:55 PM

33's really are enough, for 95% of wheelin, my 35's are too big, causing many problems, but, i love the way they look and perform.......

keep breaking stuff..... the bigger you go, the stuff you have to upgrade grows exponentially

atfrith 07-06-2005 05:10 PM


Originally Posted by Magic2979
but most of the rigs around me are built for looks and not trail capability..

Well if you REALLY do want a "capable trail rig" and a good daily driver than just like Teal said above, 33s are plenty, maybe even 35s. But to me it seems like you are shooting for the "look" as well...37s are overkill imo.

Sierra Drifter 07-06-2005 05:23 PM

Well, I'm running RE 5.5" ED lift, trimmed fenders, bushwacker flares, RE SYE, RE CV shaft, and 35 inch tires. With the Chrysler 8.25 rear the lowest gears I could get were 4:56, and after just spending 5 days in Moab I wish I had lower gears (I'm considering a 4:1 tcase now), the 35's rubbed on the bushwackers at full stuff, and the truck does feel tippy on off camber trails. Also, my brakes feel significantly weaker with 35's compared to 33's.

So, I'm going to have to trim the flares a bit in the center, and when my current tires wear out, I might go back to 33's, maybe 34's if available.

I've even been considering adding wheel spacers to get wider cause I really don't like how tippy if feels as it is, and I"m running 3.75" backspacing. But if I go wider I don't know if the tires will still stuff into the wheel wells. In any case I don't think I will ever consider 36 or 37 inch tires. There doesn't seem to be any trails I can't do with 35's (probably true with 33's as well).

Bigger tires would be fun for doing some of the obstacle course boulder paths I've seen at Holister and Prarie City, and for showing off on big rocks, and they look cool, but from my experience on the trails they are not nesc.

BTW, having ARB lockers has given me much more capability and versatility than a couple inches more tire.

CScheip 07-06-2005 05:24 PM


Originally Posted by tealcherokee
for 95% of wheelin, my 35's are too big, causing many problems,

What kind of problems, if you don't mind going into detail? I'm aiming for 35's, but always curious of what kind of problemos. Thanks, nice rig too.

On topic:
I don't have too much experience but I'd def say 35's are plenty big. 37's cause way too much extra work and I don't see that extra 2" be so worth it. Good luck.

Rock Kustoms 07-06-2005 05:40 PM

ive have a long long list of things that have failed on my jeep....some are from wheelin hard, some are from the 33's some are from the 35's

the biggest problems w/ bigger tires after axles, is steering, i bent my drag link, my steering box is toast, my steering box is also fallin off the frame, the frame rail is cracked all around it, and i have to cut most of the rail off, and brace/build that all up stonger, track bar mount i dont see lasting too much longer.....

Magic2979 07-06-2005 07:14 PM

but the thing is im not going with a very wide tire like you tealcherokee you are running 15x16x15 boggers correct? those in them selves will rip your rig apart.. not only are your tires very heavy but they are also extemly wide causing more stress than a 37x12.50 tires would cause. also the 37s will be lighter than the 35" boggers...

im not sure what i want to do. but i know i want my rig to perform and look the best that i can make it.. if that means saving for two years to buy extra parts to make my rig perform that much better than thats what i will do :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

im not going to build it half assed and keep breaking stuff and in turn have to park my rig not pointing fingures at anyone who has had this happen to them just making point.

Magic2979 07-06-2005 08:26 PM

and for the front to get clearance i am going to run the glassworks unlimited fenders with the 4.5" flare 3" raise. and in the back im going to trim up to the pinch weld and then use the cut and fold method.. which "should" give me the clearance i need for the 36s or 37s

and it should flex decent since what i lose in up travel i will gain in down travel. i forgot how GottaBeJeep explained it but i belive thats what i saw him post

Regen 07-06-2005 08:32 PM

look at regearing and possabily doing axle(s) swap

GottaBeJeep 07-06-2005 08:45 PM


Originally Posted by Magic2979
and it should flex decent since what i lose in up travel i will gain in down travel. i forgot how GottaBeJeep explained it but i belive thats what i saw him post

Your right, I did say that, but I was corrected, and understand where I was mistaken. Because the uptravel tire goes up and lose some uptravel because it is bigger, the bottom of it is also bigger just like the tire on the down travel (of course) so you really aren't gaining as much downtravel as I explained. The biggest benefit of bigger tires is the ground clearance at the lowest point (diffs). I had 37's on my rig with the RE 5.5" kit for several reasons:

1) I got a dang good deal on them
2) To prove you could fit and flex 37's with that kit
3) I planned on going full widths in the very near future and figured I wouldn't be on those stock axles very long.

I know you have tried emailing and PM's, and sorry I haven't gotten back to you. I would go with 35's and the 5" hybrid, and call it a day. 37's are too big on stock axles, namely because the stock axles are too narrow, and they are a weak point especially after gearing and locking.

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