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Rubicon Express Super Ride or Flex?
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#1 | |
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Registered User
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Rubicon Express Super Ride or Flex?
I've heard RE sags alot after a bit of time sometimes. Is this only with the AAL system or does this happen to those of you who buy the full leaf springs?
Also, what is the major difference between Super Ride and Super Flex, other than 120 bucks? Which would you recommend for a jeep that will be about 75% or more daily driver? Are there any other lift systems for 3.5-4" that are better quality in your opinion and what might they be?
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#2 |
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Registered User
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I think the problems with sagging are with the AAL. I have a full leaf pack and have no problems with sagging almost a year out. The full leaf packs will give you quite a bit more than advertised. I have a 4.5" lift and got 6" in the rear and 5.5 in the front. Mine were stiff at first, but are starting to soften up now.
The difference between the superflex and superride are the control arms have heim joints for better articulation (and less stress on the control arm brackets compared to the rubber bushings in the SR control arms), you get quick disconnects for the front swaybar instead of extended front end links, and the SF comes with bumpstops for the front. If you plan on going offroad at all, it worth the extra money for the superflex. Buying quick disconnects will cost you around $80 unless you make them yourself. I would recommend the SF kit if you plan on 25% offroad. If you're looking at a 3" lift, Rusty's isn't too bad, but you'll need some things that aren't included with that lift, like new track bar, longer brake lines, and bumpstops. Stock steering is usually OK up to around 6" of lift. Anything over 3" of lift is better off with a slip yoke eliminator and CV driveshaft in the rear (like the front driveshaft on the XJ) to help with vibrations and to remove stress from the transfer case.
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Shawn '00 TJ Sahara (RC 4" LA kit) '06 Grand Cherokee Limited '07 Ram 1500 quad cab Heritage Region Jeep Alliance |
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#3 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
what? ya and 60% of the time it works every time right? |
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#4 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
ya and 60% of the time it works every time |
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#5 |
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Vendor
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RE SuperFlex vs SuperRide
There's really not going to be much difference in the ride or handling of the two kits because they use the same springs and shocks. The only differences in the kits are the control arms, swaybar endlinks, and bumpstop extensions (the SR kit doesn't come with any). The SuperFlex kit comes with SuperFlex arms with the articulating joint on the axle end. If you're planning to wheel your XJ, I wouldn't even consider the SuperRide kit. The SR kit comes with SR arms which have rubber bushings on both ends. This is the kind of misalignment the arms and bushings will have to deal with when you go wheelin' and flex the suspension: http://jeepin.com/miscweb_album/images/flex3.jpg That's why I recommend the SuperFlex kit if you ever plan to wheel your rig. The SF kit also comes with quick disconnects for the swaybar, whereas the SR kit just comes with extended endlinks. Getting a good set of quick disconnects brand new would cost more than the price difference in the kits, so just with the disconnects alone you're coming out ahead money-wise getting the SF kit.
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Jason West - Jeepin.com | JeepinOutfitters.com '95 XJ, RE 5.5", 35" MT/Rs, D30 w/hubs & ARB, D44 w/Detroit, 4.56s, C4x4 bumpers, etc, etc. '09 JK, Unlimited Rubicon, RE 3.5", 35" BFG KM2s, Expedition One bumpers, T&T rockers & skids, XRC10 Comp '00 TJ, SOLD, wife's, RE 4.5" long-arm, 35" MT/Rs, D30+OX, D44+ARB, 4.88s, full cage, winch, C4x4 & Jeeperman bumpers, etc, etc.
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#6 |
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Registered User
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And don't worry about the RE disco's being terrible, the Gen 2 disconnects (which the new lifts come with) are great.
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[SIZE="1"]1996 Cherokee Sport 4.0L HO, AX-15, NP 231 RE 4.5" Lift, 32" Dunlop Mud Rovers, RE Hack'n'Tap, CV Driveshaft, D30/D44, 4.10's, Aussie Lockers, ZJ Tierod, F/R recovery points[/SIZE] |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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so are JKS discos
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[B]CANCER AND LUEKEMIA SUCK[/B] Proud to be a Christian |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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Thanks for the advice. =)
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#9 | |
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Man In Black
![]() Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Chicago-area (Western Suburbs)
Posts: 2,068
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Quote:
I chose the JKS units as they appeared to have a decent paint job, were adjustable and seemed strong. The adjustability aspect won me over. After 2 or 3 years (I can't remember how long) the paint job was converted to rust, the adjustability capability never came into play as my Jeeps ride height stayed the same in that time span and the threaded rod on the left unit was not functioning correctly anymore. What happened with the rod, I believe was a combination of wear, tear, fatigue and driver induced failure. It happened to start popping in extreme circumstances and gradually that popping noise became routine. What seemed to trigger it was when I went diagonally into a driveway to a parking lot. I was going a bit quicker and that was the first time I remembered the pop. It would happen routinely during similar manuevers at lower speeds as well. Then it just happened when the body would roll normally. The Teraflex units aren't adjustable, so that problem wouldn't have happened. I believe they MAY be zinc coated so rust isn't any issue, like in can be in Chicago. But I have heard of their bushings wearing out quickly, but I don't know this is as a first hand experience. So I would use the RE discos if they are included and save the dollars for later, if and when the RE's die.
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-Marc- Sweet Pea 1998 - XJ http://www.grobe.us/Jeep - JeepForum Rules - Become a Premium Member or Vendor For Sale: (4) AR 767-5766 Wheels (used) 15x7, 5x4.5, 4.5BS - for local pickup in the Chicago-area |
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#10 |
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Registered User
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I love my super flex kit. Whatever you do go with full leaf packs. NO AAL!
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'96 XJ [URL=http://www.carolinarockshop.com]Carolina Rock Shop[/URL] 3.5" RE SF, 31" BFG, Warn Winch, and some other stuff |
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