I live in the northeast with my rotted out floorpans and not sure whether to buy a whole floorpan, but individual floor pan pieces, or sheets of metal to replace each hole. It seems like buying a whole one piece would be the best option but how hard is that to weld in? Thanks.
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6.5" LA RC
I'd start by pulling the carpet and go from there. The factory undercoat can hide damage and you usually get a better idea of the damage from the inside (under the carpet) than looking up from the outside.
A whole floor pan means the least welding but is very big and awkward to handle and position in the vehicle. Pan sections (driver front, pass front, driver rear, pass rear, cargo, and trans tunnel if necessary) are easier to handle and require less welding, and are often a better option if the whole floor isn't rotten (especially if the trans tunnel is in decent shape). Individual plates to patch every hole are the cheapest option but will require more welding and some bending to fit right.
It also looks like you have a rust hole in your frame as well, plate is usually the best way to fix that.
Welding the floor isn't too difficult if you have access to good equipment that can weld thin metal (the floors are 20ga/22ga). It can be done with a cheap welder but is much more difficult since most cheap welders don't have very precise adjustments which make it difficult to weld thin metal without burning through. Most cheap welders (HF, etc.) aren't designed for anything thinner than 16ga/18ga.
Will definitely pull the carpet and get a better idea of the project, what do u suggest for a welder? I was looking at a Lincoln electric ac-225 at Home Depot that's a stick welder, I plan on doin the frame too, would it be worth buying it for both projects?
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6.5" LA RC
A stick welder will be miserable working on thin metal (It will be nearly impossible to weld 20/22ga without burning through, such a welder is designed for thick [16ga+] metal), a mig is ideal, a flux/wire is ok.
I would recommend the Hobart Handler 140, it is an excellent wire-feed mig welder for $500, this is a good all-around welder that can handle anything from 24ga. to 1/4 in (if you want to go thicker than 1/4 in you will need a 240V welder). http://www.amazon.com/Hobart-500559-...rt+handler+140
(I believe Tractor Supply carries Hobart as well if you want to buy locally, not sure about their pricing).
The Lincoln Weld Pack 140 would be the Lincoln equivalent to that. It also isn't a bad welder though it costs slightly more, I personally like Miller/Hobart (Hobart is made by the same company as Miller, but is a little more "budget friendly") more than Lincoln, of course that is a personal preference thing as well. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-E...670934?N=wpZwp
If you're on a really tight budget it is possible to do this job with a Harbor Freight Flux/Wire welder (other forum members have done it) but it is much more difficult, the HF flux/wire is designed for 18ga + but can weld 20/22ga if you are really careful. Right now they are going for $120 (sometimes they go for as little as $90 with a coupon): http://www.harborfreight.com/90-amp-...8887-8494.html
I bought an XJ a few months ago with some rust issues, so I'm pretty much in the same boat as you. It had that "swamp" smell so I ripped out the carpet and did find some nice holes.
I have a Hobart Handler 140, and it has been great! I'm actually planning on tackling my floor pans next Tuesday. For $45 from a local metal supply place, I got three 2'x4' sheets of 18 gauge steel for the floor...I doubt I actually need it all. That sounds pretty good to me compared to roughly $90 for a 20 gauge driver side pan. I'm planning on fitting it in there piece by piece instead of trying to actually form something like an OEM floorpan.
Ive done the weld in a new floor thing, it sucks. Whatever you do, make sure you seal it. remove teh rust / cancer, and seal the bare metal. Magnet paints (sponsor here) makes good undercoat for that sort of thing, called Chassis Saver.
Im going to be takling my 96 next week... your rust is nothing compared to that thing. Ug.
Im the guy who makes new gauges, check out our gallery at Teamadw.com
my floor was completely rotted out so i welded it together in pieces. it is much easy to handle but at the same time i wish i had a real floor pan replacement. i had to weld in an entire front to rear hatch floor pan so it was a real pain in the ***. still workin on getting the seatbelt bolts out so i can finish
Ya my floors really are "nothing" haha, lots of cuttin to do here!
Mine were rotted out as well...Just finished up replacing my floors. www.raybuck.com is where I bought replacement pans for the front floors. Decent fit and easy install. Had to make my own rear pan though... couldn't find a replacement for it.
Trying to clean inside of frame now but grinder obviously can't get every part of it. Any suggestions on a sand blaster? Tried looking at Home Depot and lowes, haven't seen any. I suppose I will need a compressor also, how big of a compressor will I need?
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6.5" LA RC
I got lucky with my xj and only had a few small holes that I just cut out and welded in some sections of 18 ga sheet that i had laying around the shop. I would definitely recommend going the sheet metal route rather than the whole pan. Drilling spot welds is a real b, not to mention the price of the whole floor piece. $279 from quadratec just for the rear section is too rich for my blood. Get yourself a handler 140, they are a hell of a little mig setup for the money ($499 @ tractor supply). I would second the harbor freight idea! Although i try and stay away from that place without supervision, far too much cool stuff.
Good luck! post up some pics when you get er' finished!
I ended up going with a 21 gallon compressor and 40 lbs sand blaster with a 44 lbs container of media. First of all ,I don't recommend the 21 gallon compressor that I got because it didn't even come with a hose/adapters! So I had to go back out and get this one adapter and hose that they couldnt include, yeesh! So I pour in half the container into the sandblaster tank and use it for like a minute and all of the media was gone from the tank. It did a decent job getting rid of some of the rust but not as great as I expected when it used half of my supply. I check each connection and see that I forgot to hose clamp the last hose going into the nozzle. That's where some of my pressure was going!
Argh I don't want to spend 40$ on media that I go through very quickly. I know about tarping under my work and collecting the media and reusing it but I don't want to do that with all of the rust mixed it/don't have a filter/don't have a magnet. Where can I find cheaper media/soda/sand? I found a 50 lbs bag of black diamond that's good for one use for like 8$ per bag from tractor supply. IS there anything else out there?