rotella t6 5-w40 or t5 10-w30 whats better for 4.0 - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 16 Old 08-23-2012, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
jrome39
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rotella t6 5-w40 or t5 10-w30 whats better for 4.0

New to forum heard a lot of good things about Rotella oil but want to play it safe with my 91 Laredo with 222,000 its running good. oil pressure dropped a little recently so want the best oil to get it back up

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post #2 of 16 Old 08-23-2012, 11:18 AM
dagr8tim
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How old is the oil? Does it need changed? My oil pressure drops at warm idle when it's time to change it.

I run 10w30 in the winter and 15w40 in the summer.

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post #3 of 16 Old 08-23-2012, 11:37 AM
Millermagic
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Rotella T5 10w-30 is just as thin as Rotella T6 5w-40 (as i recently learned on BITOG asking about winter oil on my XJ). A HDEO such as T6 5w-40 or Rotell 10w-30 aren't as likely to drop at hot idle when they get older

In reality, the 4.0s aren't picky about oil. Almost any 30 or 40 grade oil will work well in these engines. As long as there is oil in it that gets changed on a regular basis and a good filter ... it'll live a long and healthy life.
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post #4 of 16 Old 08-23-2012, 03:25 PM
winkosmosis
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Isn't the zinc bad for catalytic convertors?

I used to use Chevron Supreme 10W-40 because it has the thicker weight but I don't think it has any additional ZDDP

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post #5 of 16 Old 08-23-2012, 08:27 PM
donthelegend
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Yay, an oil thread!

Short version: The 4.0 doesn't care what oil is in it provided you change it regularly. Be sure to use a good filter (Wix/Napa gold and Purolator Pure One to name a few but there are others) and definitely do not use a Fram.

Longer version: Time do do some reading over on BITOG. Search some oil threads on here (in google type "which oil site:jeepforum.com/forum/f11") to get you started, then do some more specific searches on BITOG. HDEOs are great oils and will serve you well, but you'll have to decide what you think is the best.

PS: I run Rotella T6, Wix 51515 filter, and 6K OCI. YMMV.
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post #6 of 16 Old 08-23-2012, 08:52 PM
djb383
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If u go to BITOG, be sure to start with Motor Oil University for motor oil facts.
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post #7 of 16 Old 08-24-2012, 05:40 AM
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Jeep Engine Oil Viscosity

This was taken from pages 82 and 83 of the 1989 Chrysler/Jeep owners manual.

Selecting Engine Oil Viscosity

When changing or adding engine oil select the proper grade by using the chart on the following page. Select the grade that corresponds to the ambient temperature range you expect to encounter before your next oil change.

30*F to 100*F+ 20W-40 or 20W-50
0*F to 100*F+ 10W-30 or 10W-40
-20*F to 60*F 5W-30


Me, I use 15-40 Rotella from Walmart and a Wix filter in all my Jeeps.
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post #8 of 16 Old 08-24-2012, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
jrome39
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Thanks for feed back on my oil thread always get a lot of good info on this forum and proud ,to be a xj owner hoping to get at least 300k out of it and also what do you guys think about the mopar oil filters, cheap at walmart
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post #9 of 16 Old 08-24-2012, 11:20 AM
cruiser54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrome39 View Post
Thanks for feed back on my oil thread always get a lot of good info on this forum and proud ,to be a xj owner hoping to get at least 300k out of it and also what do you guys think about the mopar oil filters, cheap at walmart
Mopar filter has good anti-drainback valve like the Napa/Wix and is good for an easy 4,000 mile oil change interval.

Napa Silver filters, Made by Wix are good for the same interval.

Napa Gold filters, made by Wix are good for 7,500 mile intervals.

Napa Platinum oil filters are for extended drain intervals.

It has to do wit the number of pleats in the filter media and the media itself. If you're gonna change your oil every 3,000 to 4,000 miles, save some money and buy Mopar or Napa Silver. The anti-drainback valve is super important on our Jeeps because the filters are mounted upside down or sideways.
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post #10 of 16 Old 08-24-2012, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks again FYI just got a 1991 laredo for 500bucks in april with 217k put almost 6k on it only had to replace steering box,but I called the number for chrysler on the manual an they told me there was a recall on my front rotors and some type of clip for e brake. took it to local dealership got new rotors and clips for free the recall was from 1997 dont know if everyone knows that, and also how important is changing filter on aw4 when I do my transmision drain an fill
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post #11 of 16 Old 08-24-2012, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrome39 View Post
Thanks again FYI just got a 1991 laredo for 500bucks in april with 217k put almost 6k on it only had to replace steering box,but I called the number for chrysler on the manual an they told me there was a recall on my front rotors and some type of clip for e brake. took it to local dealership got new rotors and clips for free the recall was from 1997 dont know if everyone knows that, and also how important is changing filter on aw4 when I do my transmision drain an fill
What's the fluid look like now in your AW4?

If not absolutely horrible, drain the pan using the plug and refill with 3.75 quarts of Dexron fluid. It's not a filter in that trans, but a screen.
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post #12 of 16 Old 08-24-2012, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
jrome39
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the trans fluid looks like engine oil and it jumps a little when putting it in drive an shifts a lil hard put some lucas trans fix in seams to help
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post #13 of 16 Old 08-24-2012, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
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the trans fluid looks like engine oil and it jumps a little when putting it in drive an shifts a lil hard put some lucas trans fix in seams to help
Do a drain and fill. Then watch it and do another one in a coupla weeks.
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post #14 of 16 Old 08-25-2012, 05:55 PM
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The viscosity you choose depends on the "environment" in which you live.

A guy running an XJ in Hawaii is going to be running different oil than a guy in Northern Minnesota in January.

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Without "data", all you have is an opinion!
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post #15 of 16 Old 08-26-2012, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by winkosmosis View Post
Isn't the zinc bad for catalytic convertors?

I used to use Chevron Supreme 10W-40 because it has the thicker weight but I don't think it has any additional ZDDP
The short answer to this question is that, yes, ZDDP can bad for catalytic converters HOWEVER, there is a whole list of other factors that come into play when discussing the life expectancy of catalytic converters, some of which are much more of a concern in a Jeep than the ZDDP content of an oil. This thesis pretty well sums up most of the factors at play in the life of converters. Its 138 pages so have some free time before you read it.

Web version
http://herkules.oulu.fi/isbn9514269543/html/index.html

PDF version
http://herkules.oulu.fi/isbn9514269543/isbn9514269543.pdf

There are several good takeaways from this work. My takeaway with regard to zinc is that while ZDDP content of an oil can be a factor in converter life, there are several other areas that are much more of a concern, primarily the fuel quality, the engines state of tune with regard to fueling (running rich or lean) and the overall engine state of tune (ignition system related misfires, etc). Ever read the misfire threads on here, including those that have the MIL light flashing and the people that continue to ignore the MIL light? This is a serious condition that can be much more damaging to a catalytic converter than ZDDP content. Another area of concern that we see in the Jeep world is hard wheeling that can physically damage cats, not to mention that Jeeps already have a tendency to have a failing cats anyway regardless of oil type...a rattling cat is a failed cat and one that needs to be changed before it breaks down and causes a loss of power. IMO, you are more likely to replace a cat due to physical damage before you'll have to replace one due to ODBII efficiency codes.

One last point of reference for you to consider, I routinely use a high ZDDP oil (Rotella T 15w40, ZDDP content north of 1100 ppm) in both the XJ and TJ. My TJ is my best example here in that Ive put 5 years worth of oil changes through it using Rotella and it still has the factory original cat from 1999. I am north of 190k miles on the odometer. No ODBII codes and I live in an emission testing state and have had no emission failures during testing. For me, I'm not so concerned about ZDDP content and cat life.

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