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Unread 02-22-2011, 08:47 PM   #1
sn0wman4unc
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Replacing U-Joints but how many?

Ive been having some front end vibes and noticed the front u joints have never been changed out, think im going to go ahead and do it. How many u-joints does this thing have including driveshaft? Im gonna get the brute force from advance auto.

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Unread 02-22-2011, 09:29 PM   #2
robsjeepxj
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First off, let me say getting all Spicer joints is the way to go, the quality is far superior and will last much longer than any off brand joint you can find. Believe me there is a difference and yes they are that are worth getting.

So how many joints do you need? The front axle will have 2, the front driveshaft will have 3 and the rear driveshaft (stock) will have 2. If you have a CV driveshaft in the back then that will have 3 instead of 2. So either 7 or 8 is the easy answer.

If your going to rebuild the driveshafts you may want to replace the center ball assemblies at the same time, especially if they have a lot of miles on them. Also check for play in the slip joints too if they have ANY play they will need to be either repaired or replaced. Good luck with it.
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Unread 02-23-2011, 07:59 AM   #3
xGArfx
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a good u joint for the drive shafts which i have been using now are toms woods gold seal ujoint. They are 20 bucks each, have a grease fitting in the cap, and have a great seal on them. I like having non greasables in the axle shafts and greasables in the driveshafts but the only greasables spicer carry are drilled in the middle of the cross trunion, toms woods have them in the cap so i believe these are much stronger and you can grease them for longer life. Always use spicer joints, get 2 spicer 760x u joints for the front axle shafts and i would order all your driveshaft u joints from tom woods-> gold seal 1310 series greasable u joint.
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Unread 02-23-2011, 08:09 AM   #4
dukie564
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i used the Brute Force joints from advanced auto when i did mine and was very impressed with the quality, so don't let these guys tell you otherwise. They're made my Neapco, which i believe has been around even longer than Spicer, and quality is quite comparable. They should work great for you.
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Unread 02-23-2011, 08:39 AM   #5
xGArfx
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i wouldnt say brute force are comparable to spicers at all.... oem parts>parts store parts always. Spicers 760x joint is cold forged and is the strongest joint besides CTMS. Any other parts store joint is heat forged, 760s are cold forged, tripple sealed and have the largest cross available. A stronger cross trunion means the trunion ends inside the caps are less likely to wear from the roller bearings, creating tighter gaps which means less debris/water/dirt ect will be able to get into the roller bearings. Any joint with a cheap seal and worn out roller bearings will eventually allows water to go in and destroy a joint. Idk about you man but dana/spicer will always be of better quality then some parts store quality parts. You get what you pay for when it comes to u joints, im sure these brute force joints will do the job for someone just street driving but if you do any off pavement driving id say why not go with the best quality joint you can get? 760s are like under 28$ a piece anyway.

My original axle shaft u joints lasted just under 100k miles.
My front axle drive shaft u joints have 120k on them and are still tight.
My rear driveshaft was from an xj with 250k miles on it (im sure they where replaced at some point), i installed this shaft when doing my sye and didnt replace any of the joints, those originals lasted another 30k miles after i got it. I'm finally replacing the last u joint on that driveshaft in the next few days.
These u joints were driven on snowy salt covered roads for many winters, and wheeled hard on the rocks and obviously through some muddy water out on the trails and they still lasted that many miles. If these joints can handle the stresses of wheeling locked on 33s on blue/black trails im sure anyone just driving around down will be fine. If the joints are greasable you have to keep up on the maintanence with them to get the most out of them.

I'd say the original spicers lasted a pretty damn long time, go for u joints that you know will last you another 100+k miles.
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Unread 02-23-2011, 08:57 AM   #6
sn0wman4unc
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the current u joints have 152,588 miles on them. im confident they have never been touched... Im gonna look at the spicer's but i have a 50% off coupon for the Advance Auto So i still might use it for this and get the brute force. It was my understanding that the non greaseable joints were stronger because they werent drilled...and the greaseable were better for everyday highway and city use, but needed to be greased accordingly. Because the tubes were drilled for fittings it makes them weaker. I dont really want to spend my saturday afternoons greasing lol so im gonna get brute force with the lifetime warranty so if it brakes o well....
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Unread 02-23-2011, 09:12 AM   #7
Kevin108
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I got Spicer 5-153Xs shipped from Northern Drivetrain cheaper than I can buy them locally.

http://www.northerndrivetrain.com/pr...PI-5-153X.html
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Unread 02-23-2011, 09:45 AM   #8
jeepkid03
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xGArfx View Post
a good u joint for the drive shafts which i have been using now are toms woods gold seal ujoint. They are 20 bucks each, have a grease fitting in the cap, and have a great seal on them. I like having non greasables in the axle shafts and greasables in the driveshafts but the only greasables spicer carry are drilled in the middle of the cross trunion, toms woods have them in the cap so i believe these are much stronger and you can grease them for longer life. Always use spicer joints, get 2 spicer 760x u joints for the front axle shafts and i would order all your driveshaft u joints from tom woods-> gold seal 1310 series greasable u joint.
So Spicer 760x for the front axle shafts but does anyone know the spicer part number for the driveshafts?
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Unread 02-23-2011, 09:45 AM   #9
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The nice thing about non-greaseable is they are zero maint. Instead of getting into a pizzing contest on what beer tastes better we should answer his question. Assuming you are stock driveshafts:

Front Axle:
-2 knuckle U-joints (interior snap ring)

Front Driveshaft:
-3 U-joints (exterior snap ring)

Rear Driveshat:
- 2 U-joints (exterior snap ring)

All U-joints are the same with the exception of the front knuckles.
Get what fits the budget/coupon, either way you will be doing them again in the future.

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Unread 02-23-2011, 09:51 AM   #10
xGArfx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepkid03 View Post
So Spicer 760x for the front axle shafts but does anyone know the spicer part number for the driveshafts?
The drive shafts are a 1310 series u joint. Any driveline shop will know which ones if you say that. I'd highly reccomend tom woods u joints for the driveshafts though, they will most likely end up being cheaper in the end. I just ordered another through him yesterday, they cost $20 each and there is a $5 dollar packaging charge for the entire order, no shipping. http://www.4xshaft.com/ its his gold seal u joint, i just really like being able to grease the driveshaft u joints for a longer life and to keep them from drying up and making noise. Any other greaseable u joint will be cross drilled and that would make for a weaker joint, his fitting is in the cap which is very nice and makes for easier access.
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Unread 02-23-2011, 09:55 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xGArfx View Post
I'd highly reccomend tom woods u joints for the driveshafts though, I just ordered another through him yesterday, they cost $20 each and there is a $5 dollar packaging charge for the entire order, no shipping. its his gold seal u joint, i just really like being able to grease the driveshaft u joints for a longer life and to keep them from drying up and making noise.
It's like talking to a cat sometime on here....he has a COUPON FOR ADVANCE. Can Advance get TW ????



Honestly snOman you need to rebuild your engine everytime you do U-Joints...it's what all the cool-kids do. Do it or GTFO.

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Unread 02-23-2011, 09:59 AM   #12
xGArfx
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the guy who i quoted asking about what size the ds u joints were isnt the original poster..... i didnt know that both of those guys had coupons to advanced. Jeepkid03 never mentioned anything about having a coupon, onlysn0wman4unc mentioned having a coupon for advanced and was gona get the brute force joints.
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Unread 02-23-2011, 10:11 AM   #13
jeepkid03
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xGArfx View Post
the guy who i quoted asking about what size the ds u joints were isnt the original poster..... i didnt know that both of those guys had coupons to advanced. Jeepkid03 never mentioned anything about having a coupon, onlysn0wman4unc mentioned having a coupon for advanced and was gona get the brute force joints.
yep no coupon for me.

Is there a special tool needed for u-joints? Everyone I talk to says use a vise or pound it with a hammer.

Thanks for the info
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Unread 02-23-2011, 10:14 AM   #14
dukie564
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Originally Posted by jeepkid03 View Post
Is there a special tool needed for u-joints? Everyone I talk to says use a vise or pound it with a hammer.
No special tool. I used (and broke) 2 bench vises when doing mine. Hammer and heat definitely required to remove the old one (only hit the axle flange at the thick point). Putting the new one in the freezer for a few hours helps the install go smoother.
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Unread 02-23-2011, 10:17 AM   #15
xGArfx
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you will need a set of snap ring pliers and/or needle nose pliers, and i would go rent a ball joint press from autozone.. its free so why not. obv you will need the assortment of wrenches and sockets to get the parts off to replace the u joint but that depends on which one is being replaced.
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