Replacing floors on an XJ with pics + build thread - Page 6 - JeepForum.com

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post #76 of 1116 Old 11-23-2010, 03:29 PM
gonejeepin04220
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what do you suggest for a cheap welder? ya know good enough for exhaust and sheet metal. ive heard flux core is kinda junk.


95 xj,5 speed,
5" lift, 33 12.5 dessert dogs
chrysler 8.25,
"my xj is so horny, sometimes im scared itll came right up in a wheelie"
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post #77 of 1116 Old 11-23-2010, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
The_Blacksmith
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the hobart handlers are decent for light duty stuff, or look for a used millermatic
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post #78 of 1116 Old 11-23-2010, 08:39 PM
96xjmyjoy
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That's why I was thinking tying in some of the different points as you've shown with thick rigid pieces. I'm not going to NEED the strength that you are going for either. As long as I maintaibn stock (hopefully I'll be able to gain more) I'd be fine.
If You wouldn't mind can I send you a pm of what I'M working with??
Your project is great though. And if my jeep wasn't a dd I'd be following your lead step by step lol
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post #79 of 1116 Old 11-23-2010, 10:04 PM
daurwid
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Awesome thread. Subscribed. I need to learn how to use a mig welder...
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post #80 of 1116 Old 11-23-2010, 11:53 PM Thread Starter
The_Blacksmith
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96xjmyjoy View Post
That's why I was thinking tying in some of the different points as you've shown with thick rigid pieces. I'm not going to NEED the strength that you are going for either. As long as I maintaibn stock (hopefully I'll be able to gain more) I'd be fine.
If You wouldn't mind can I send you a pm of what I'M working with??
Your project is great though. And if my jeep wasn't a dd I'd be following your lead step by step lol
my jeep is my daily, haha im on borowed stuff since i sold my zj.
send the pm for sure. what i was getting at, the first time the unibody flexs, fiberglass will crack and start to fall apart, so it would be all for nothing eventually.

your better action would be a **** load of pop rivets, and sealer,
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post #81 of 1116 Old 11-24-2010, 12:02 AM
Climbit
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following this on both forums




going to use it as a guide for when I want to tuck my gastank in the rear and rebuild my front floors for a psuedo tummy tuck and front 3 link.
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post #82 of 1116 Old 11-25-2010, 11:21 PM
96xjmyjoy
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For sure with the flexing, I got that. lol what I was getting at is that if I can't dive it I have nothing else to drive lol. Yeah, will send PM more than likely tomorrow.
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post #83 of 1116 Old 11-26-2010, 04:35 PM
black954
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Your progress looks GREAT! I'm doing the exact same thing with my sister's 95' XJ. I only bought the front replacement floor pans, but when I pulled the carpet, there was much much more rot than I had imagined. The entire passenger side was COMPLETELY GONE! Also, the passenger side unibody rail is pretty badly rusted so I have to rebuild that as well. I finished the complete driver side today, about 5 hours total. I used cold galvanize compound inside the unibody rail. I will start on the passenger side tomorrow, but I only have a few hours in the morning free, so it will be a 2 day process. I'm also going to fab up an exhaust heat shield out of some diamond plate aluminum I have to keep the heat off the new floor.
Good luck! It's looking good.
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post #84 of 1116 Old 11-26-2010, 05:00 PM
little_Jeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by black954 View Post
Your progress looks GREAT! I'm doing the exact same thing with my sister's 95' XJ. I only bought the front replacement floor pans, but when I pulled the carpet, there was much much more rot than I had imagined. The entire passenger side was COMPLETELY GONE! Also, the passenger side unibody rail is pretty badly rusted so I have to rebuild that as well. I finished the complete driver side today, about 5 hours total. I used cold galvanize compound inside the unibody rail. I will start on the passenger side tomorrow, but I only have a few hours in the morning free, so it will be a 2 day process. I'm also going to fab up an exhaust heat shield out of some diamond plate aluminum I have to keep the heat off the new floor.
Good luck! It's looking good.
Photos pleeeeeeeeease.......
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post #85 of 1116 Old 11-27-2010, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
The_Blacksmith
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Photos pleeeeeeeeease.......
lets keep the outside fotos to pm's, i would also like to see this feel free to message me.

did some more work today, got the drivers side rear floor in from the topside, al that seam sealer is really a *****.


its all tached in from the topside, the plate is also cut for the passenger side in the same area. More tomorrow.
Attached Thumbnails
CIMG2119.jpg  
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post #86 of 1116 Old 11-27-2010, 05:02 PM
black954
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yep, that seam sealer is a PITA! I used a 7" wire wheel on an electric grinder and it got it off pretty easily. There were little white balls of seam sealer EVERYWHERE though!
How are you attaching the floor to the unibody? I drilled holes every 3" on each side of the rail and plug welded it to the rail flanges. This is about what they were stock.
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post #87 of 1116 Old 11-27-2010, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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spot welds suck, im welding it all from the bottom up to the rails, much stronger than stock.
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post #88 of 1116 Old 11-27-2010, 05:26 PM
gonejeepin04220
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man this thrread is gonna be such a huge help. the rail that my driver seat bols on in the front is rottin threw yikes. and the meat whistle that owned if before me welded where they front of the driver seat was bolted.

95 xj,5 speed,
5" lift, 33 12.5 dessert dogs
chrysler 8.25,
"my xj is so horny, sometimes im scared itll came right up in a wheelie"
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post #89 of 1116 Old 11-27-2010, 05:35 PM
black954
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Originally Posted by Alice_Cullen View Post
spot welds suck, im welding it all from the bottom up to the rails, much stronger than stock.
I didn't say spot weld, I said plug weld like factory. The body is supposed to have some flex in it or the sheet metal it's made of would just tear.
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post #90 of 1116 Old 11-27-2010, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
The_Blacksmith
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I didn't say spot weld, I said plug weld like factory. The body is supposed to have some flex in it or the sheet metal it's made of would just tear.
im much happier with tons of tach welds on the bottom side than plug welds.
the factory design was very, very, very poor.
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