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Replacing the Door Check

6K views 18 replies 7 participants last post by  Ralph77 
#1 ·
The infamous Door Check that makes that popping noise when opening the door and often breaks from constant usage. Note the pin is removed from bracket. The following write-up is how to replace it.

You will need the following:
Ratchet/wrench (10 mm)
Ratchet/wrench (3/8) size
Phillips screw driver
Needle Nose pliers
Long handled grip pliers
General Purpose Grease
Thin wire or strong twine
A little patience will help too
 

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#2 ·
Step #1....Remove the pin from the bracket that holds the door check arm. Using a 10mm socket, remove the 2 bolts that hold the door check in the door jam. I also chose to replace the bracket where the pin inserts to hold the door check arm. Use a 3/8 socket/wrench to remove the bracket. It's my opinion that over time the hole becomes enlarged due to constant opening & closing the drivers door. The photos reflect before & after the door check & bracket have been removed. Note that when the bolts are removed from the door check, it will drop down into the door behind the panel, but not to worry. You will be removing it later.
 

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#3 ·
Step #2 Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the 5 screws that hold the door panel in place. One is located on the top right hand edge of the panel under the small tweeter speaker. One is in the door handle area. The other 3 are recessed under the door arm section.
 

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#4 ·
Step # 3 Push pins attached inside the door panel hold the door onto the metal door frame. There is a tool to release the pins, but I used my hands to firmly but with caution pull the panel from the door frame. The pins will not release from the door panel when pulled from the frame so no worry about loosing or replacing the push pins. There are pre-drilled holes in the door frame that securely hold them in place. Once the panel is pulled away from the door frame, there are two (2) wiring harnesses that must be disconnected. Just press and pull. They should release with no problem. Then there are two (2) metal arms that must be disconnected before the door panel can be completely released from the door. I used needle-nosed pliars to help release them. The metal rods are attached by plastic connectors (one yellow & one black). One releases from the top and the other from the bottom of the connectors. The connectors can be easily removed from the plastic connectors by placing one of the jaws of the needle-nosed pliers on the metal rod and the other on the plastic connector and pressing down. It should release with no problem.
 

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#5 ·
Step #4 Remove the Door Kick Speaker. It is held by two (2) screws and easily releases from the metal door frame. However, wires are attached to the speaker and can be pulled from the metal prongs on the speaker. You will need this space to locate & remove the broken door check and install the new one.
 

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#7 ·
Step #5 Now comes the fun part. Run a wire or strong cord thru the opening where the door check was unbolted down to the hole where the speaker was removed. Run the wire through the metal arm of the door check and secure it so the wire/cord will NOT release. IMPORTANT: Make sure you grease the springs and the door check arm before do the following....Now, begin to pull the door check upwards toward the opening where it was originally bolted. This will take some patience & finesse but it can be done. There is a large wiring harness down by the round speaker opening that you might need to work around and push aside so that the door check can move past and up to the hole where it bolts. The door check arm must be inserted into that hole before the door check can be bolted onto the door. Once bolted, the arm can be inserted into the bracket and the pin pushed thru the door check arm. I had to use a pair of grip pliers to help press the pin into the new bracket. It was very tight fitting.
 

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#8 ·
So there you go...a DIY project that took me about two (2) hours. There is no more popping noise and the door opens and closes with tightness like the other doors. Best of Luck to anyone tacking this project. It's not that difficult...just time consuming and requires some patience.
 
#9 ·
VERY NICE WRITE UP!!!
As a side note. If your looking at the Junk yard for a used one the passenger side is the same as the drivers side. The passenger side is often not worn out.
 
#10 ·
Nice work here morrie. Thanks for your willingness to pass this knowledge on to fellow XJ'ers about to embark on the same journey!
I've added a link to this thread in the Useful write-ups by forum members sticky.

Fellow XJ owners please click the "Thumbs-up" icon in the first post of this thread if you find it helpful in your own endeavors. :cheers:
 
#12 ·
Nice work here morrie. Thanks for your willingness to pass this knowledge on to fellow XJ'ers about to embark on the same journey!
I've added a link to this thread to the Useful write-ups by forum members sticky.

Fellow XJ owners please click the "Thumbs-up" icon in the first post of this thread if you find it helpful in your own endeavors. :cheers:
Glad to be of help...thanks for adding to useful-write-ups
 
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