|
|
>
Replaced Window Regulator - 'Lil Writeup Inside
| Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Line | TJ 5.25" Speaker Adapters - NalinMFG | Truck-Lite's New LED Headlamp Series |
![]() |
|
|
#1 | |
|
Registered User
|
Replaced Window Regulator - 'Lil Writeup Inside
Since I bought my '01 XJ in March, the driver side front window wouldn't stop at the top or bottom if your finger was still on the switch, and it would make an awful clicking sound. So, after some searching on here I figured the regulator was the culprit. Since it still went up and down fine, I left it alone.
Well, last week the driver side front window fell in on mom's '99 WJ, so I decided I should pick up both regulators from a local dealer. The WJ install went smoothly, so I tackled mine today. Got it done in under one hour! Only tools needed were a Philips screwdriver, a 10mm socket, and a pair of pliers. 1. Lower the window halfway. It'll be easier to get the screws out that hold the glass in place. 2. Remove one Philips screw by the side view mirror at the top of the door panel, one inside the door handle area, and 3 large Philips screws from the arm rest. 3. Pull the door panel off - easy on the clips! The lock rod and handle rod have plastic clips that swing off the rods, very easy to un-hook with the pliers. Unplug your power window/mirror switches if equipped. 4. Remove the 2 screws on the speaker and unplug, then remove the water/sound barrier plastic. 5. Remove the 2 10mm screws that hold the glass in place, then push the glass up and support it. 6. Remove the 3 10mm nuts that hold the motor in place (lower part of the door, near the center), then the 3 10mm bolts that hold the regulator in place. There's 1 up top, and 2 down near the motor. 7. Remove the plastic push-pin that keeps the cable attached to the inside of the door, then undo the plug for the motor. 8. Pull the cable end out first, then gradually rotate the whole assembly out in one piece. Just follow these steps backwards to install the new one. Very easy!
__________________
Steve Ragusa - North Jersey '01 XJ - SOLD! '06 Infiniti G35x - New DD. :) '03 KJ Limited -WifesJeep- 3.7, Auto, NP 242, '06 Limited 17's. 40K miles. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
Registered User
|
yeah, that has been on my list of things to do for the last couple of weeks, how much money did that part run?
__________________
-Shawn |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Registered User
|
The P/N for the power driver side front is 55154959 AI - list is $105. I shopped around on the internet, did some searching for Chrysler Parts on Google and came up with a dealership that was close enough to me that sells at "Internet Prices". I got the regulator for $85.05 plus tax.
__________________
Steve Ragusa - North Jersey '01 XJ - SOLD! '06 Infiniti G35x - New DD. :) '03 KJ Limited -WifesJeep- 3.7, Auto, NP 242, '06 Limited 17's. 40K miles. Last edited by TPI Monte SS; 06-28-2005 at 09:25 AM.. |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
Registered User
|
Thanks 14 million times over!!!! Within the past week i have the EXACT same problem!
|
|
|
|
|
|
#5 | |
|
Registered User
|
Quote:
__________________
Steve Ragusa - North Jersey '01 XJ - SOLD! '06 Infiniti G35x - New DD. :) '03 KJ Limited -WifesJeep- 3.7, Auto, NP 242, '06 Limited 17's. 40K miles. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
Registered User
|
yessir the write-up helps... one question though, if you buy a new regulator from the dealer, wont it have the same problem as the one that came with the jeep?
I mean it will be the same manufacturer. or did they "fix" the problem with the aftermarket part ![]()
__________________
2000 XJ, Sport, 4wd, 100k miles Gas tank skid, Rusty's x-case skid, tow points 10/3/08 installed RE 4.5 full pack kit, AA SYE, Woods DS 32x11.50 Dunlop AT's, 3.75BS on 15" streetlocks OME shocks, rear disc brakes HP D30 swapped in |
|
|
|
|
|
#7 | |
|
Registered User
|
Quote:
__________________
-Shawn |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#8 |
|
Registered User
|
I have manual windows, and I replaced mine last year, but I guess that part I got from the junkyard had been used quite a bit, because it needs to be replaced again, it rolls down fine, but anywhere from fully open to 3-4" up, I have to pull on the glass until the crank engages. Anyone had this problem?
|
|
|
|
|
|
#9 |
|
Registered User
|
I found this on ebay... It worked for me.
The type of breakage which this repair kit is intended to fix is very common on the 1997-2001 Jeep Cherokees. There is also another type of failure which is quite common on these vehicles. What will happen with this other failure is that sometimes when you operate the window switch, the window won't move, and there will be a grinding or clicking sound coming from the door. Usually this happens when the window is in the full up or full down position. (For example, when using the auto down feature, when the window gets to the bottom, the motor might continue to run and grind instead of the switch popping back to the off position.) If this is what is happening on your Cherokee, and the window is still going up and down with the window switch (the glass hasn't fallen down into the door and you can't move it up and down by hand) then the plastic piece in your regulator hasn't broken, and my repair kit will not help you. However, here is a tip that you can use to fix your window for free. Basically what is happening for this second type of failure is that the spiral cable inside of the window regulator has been worn down by the gear in the motor housing. (Sometimes the gear itself will also become worn, but usually it is just the cable itself.) This almost always happens at the full up and/or full down positions. What you can do is to dissasemble the regulator, pull the spiral cable out, flip it around and re-install it, "backwards", then reassemble the regulator. (Feel free to refer to the PDF installation instructions for my repair kit. Although the instructions are obviously geared towards installing my repair kit, they also show how to remove the regulator from the door and dissasemble it, so they may be useful to you.) Flipping the cable around like this causes a fresh section of the cable to be aligned with the motor gear while at the full up and full down positions. Almost always, this will solve the problem. However, in extreme cases, the gear itself might be worn down, or perhaps you will get to a point where flipping the cable around won't help because both ends are worn. In this case, what you can try is to "slot" the holes in the plastic portion of the motor housing such that when you assemble the motor housing, you can push the gear closer to the cable. Eventually, it may get to the point where you have used up all of the adjustment, in which case you are probably looking at purchasing a new regulator, or possibly scavenging a new spiral cable from a junkyard, but these tips usually do work, and should give you some more years of service if your regulator has failed in this manner. Just to clarify, this tech tip that I have described has nothing to do with the plastic piece which breaks inside the regulator; my repair kit is not designed to fix this "stripped spiral cable" problem, I simply include this information here because this problem is also common on these vehicles, and I thought it might be helpful to someone who stumbles across this eBay listing while searching for a solution to their Cherokee's window problem. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me. |
|
|
|
|
|
#10 |
|
Registered User
|
will this the cable flip work for a 96 cherokee as well?
__________________
1993 XJ Sport RIP (Parts) - 189k, white, 4.0, automatic, command-trac NP231 1996 XJ Sport Daily Driver - 95k, stone white, 4.0, automatic, selec-trac NP242, Tow Hooks, SRB fog lights, tinted glass. 2005 Wrangler Rubicon Summer Toy - 8k, 100% STOCK...silver, automatic, soft and hard tops and doors My Pics "life moves pretty fast... if you don't stop and look around once and awhile, you could miss it"...F. Bueller |
|
|
|
|
|
#11 | |
|
Registered User
|
Quote:
![]() |
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
|
|
|
«
Previous Thread
|
Next Thread
»
|
| Suggested Threads |
|