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Unread 12-25-2007, 10:43 PM   #1
ar275103
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Replaced water pump, now squealing noise

Just replaced the water pump, hoses, thermostat etc. in my 93 4 cyl xj and seemed to be working great until I noticed a high pitch squeal coming from the engine that gets louder with acceleration. I am thinking the belt tension could be off, would that make a squealing noise that increases with rpms? how would i go about adjusting the tension and how much tension should be on the belt? anybody have similar problems with water pump replacement and squealing afterwards?

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Unread 12-25-2007, 11:05 PM   #2
Meltedmechanic
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only thing i can think of that would get higher in pitch is a loose belt. I think about 1/4 inch of play i may be wrong i think i am wrong... but definitly sounds like a belt
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Unread 12-25-2007, 11:19 PM   #3
taseal
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I have the same problem, let me know if you find out what it is... we've played with tension, but nada...
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Unread 12-25-2007, 11:22 PM   #4
black2door
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Maybe just throw a new belt on it. Worth a try.
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Unread 12-26-2007, 12:10 AM   #5
TwistedXJ
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Just tighten the serpentine belt as needed and it will go away, when I did my pump it was just that nothing else. it is common when you take it off .
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Unread 12-26-2007, 12:37 AM   #6
XJohnnyC
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As long as you had the old belt off, you should've put a new one on and saved the old one as a spare.

The belt has to be really tight. Tighter than most people think. I believe it's like 160 ft/lbs. for a new belt and 140 ft/lbs for a broken-in belt (I could be slightly off on the numbers).

A good tension gauge is the Krikit II from NAPA. It costs about $12.
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Unread 12-26-2007, 05:55 AM   #7
tjwalker
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XJohnnyC is correct, these belts have to be quite tight to prevent squealing.
Everytime I install a new belt, I end up tightening it usually twice before it stops barking at me.

IF you did not have squealing before you installed the water pump, then the problem is almost certainly belt tension. You should also inspect the belt for "glazing".

If your belt is pretty new, then tighten it a bit more. If the belt is older, I'd replace it with a new good quality belt. Don't shop low end stuff; you get what you pay for!
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Unread 12-26-2007, 11:17 AM   #8
ar275103
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thanks to all for the advice, looks like ive got a little more work to do before the job is completed. Im probably going to end up replacing the belt with a new one, anyone know anything about the gatorback belts??
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Unread 12-26-2007, 12:55 PM   #9
Cruzin Illusion
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If you have silicone spray lube or WD40 spray some on the belt with the motor run. If the noise goes away then the you need to replace the belt. More than likely that is your problem. If it does not go away, with the belt removed, turn the idler pulley and see if it feels like it is rough or grinding when turn it. The bearing in the idler pulley is known to go bad. Also look at you crank pulley/dampner. If it is older and the rubber portion is displaced it will cause a squeaking noise. This is the least likely out of the group.
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Unread 12-26-2007, 06:27 PM   #10
JMC-14
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Don't over tight, because you may destroy your power steering pump, which is closest to the belt tensioner. Too much side loading on the bearing will eventually cause it to fail.
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Unread 12-26-2007, 07:37 PM   #11
MBJR9
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Tighten the belt, should go away after that.
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Unread 12-26-2007, 09:00 PM   #12
ar275103
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tightened the belt some after work today. still squeals a little bit, about the same as when i replaced the water pump, but the increased squealing with higher rpms is all gone, so im pretty satisfied with the way she sounds. thanks for all your advice forum members
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Unread 12-26-2007, 09:03 PM   #13
XJohnnyC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar275103
thanks to all for the advice, looks like ive got a little more work to do before the job is completed. Im probably going to end up replacing the belt with a new one, anyone know anything about the gatorback belts??
Gatorbacks are probably the best belt to get.

And yes, overtightening is much worse than undertightening. Using ny Krikit II, I've found that the difference between overtightening and undertightening is just a couple of turns of the adjusting bolt. So there's not much margin for error. That's why I'd recommend a tensioning gauge.
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