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Unread 01-08-2013, 08:36 PM   #1
poolrod
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Replaced the Radiator and thermostat, no heat from the heater

Now my heater won't get hot enough to remove goosebumps on my arms. Is the heater core next to replace?

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Unread 01-08-2013, 08:50 PM   #2
Hudson
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Try flushing it first. That's easier than replacing it. Reverse flush it while you're at it.
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Unread 01-08-2013, 09:40 PM   #3
poolrod
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hudson View Post
Try flushing it first. That's easier than replacing it. Reverse flush it while you're at it.
Thank you, I'll try that, the radiator and thermostat are new though.
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Unread 01-08-2013, 09:43 PM   #4
kstopp
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+1 on the flushing. Hopefully you used a 195* thermostat, what are you getting for temp on the gauge? Did you bleed/burp the coolant system properly after replacing those components?
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Unread 01-09-2013, 10:02 AM   #5
CCKen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kstopp View Post
+1 on the flushing. Hopefully you used a 195* thermostat, what are you getting for temp on the gauge? Did you bleed/burp the coolant system properly after replacing those components?
He shouldn't have to burp his open system (2000 XJ 4.0), provided he used a T-Stat with a bleed valve/hole/V-notch in his T-Start. OEM Stats are the best. See pics.



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Unread 01-09-2013, 11:54 AM   #6
poolrod
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CCKen View Post
He shouldn't have to burp his open system (2000 XJ 4.0), provided he used a T-Stat with a bleed valve/hole/V-notch in his T-Start. OEM Stats are the best. See pics.



Yes, that's the one I got. Thank you all.
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Unread 01-09-2013, 12:25 PM   #7
ZCherokee4x4
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What if you flush out the heater core and the vehicle runs cooler but the heat still doesn't work very well? Is it the heater core?
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Unread 01-09-2013, 01:54 PM   #8
RedRyderXJ
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Your heater core isnt bypassed is it?
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Unread 01-09-2013, 03:07 PM   #9
kstopp
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You should still fill up the coolant system with the cap off, let it run until it gets up to temperature with the heat on full and continue adding coolant until the level maintains. Then put the cap on and continue to check the overflow tank occasionally over the next little while.

Just because you have a hole in the T-stat does not ensure that there is not air trapped in a pocket somewhere in the block. Open systems still require burping...
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Unread 01-09-2013, 04:51 PM   #10
djb383
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Before flushing, remove the heater hoses from the stat cover and water pump......do not risk flushing crud from the heater core into that new rad.

Let it idle with the rad cap off and keeping rad full. Once the motor is hot and coolant/air "burp" out the rad, install a new rad cap. When the motor is cold, check coolant level in both the rad and bottle frequently. Hoods should be raised at least once a week.
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Unread 01-09-2013, 06:05 PM   #11
djb383
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If I understand the factory stat correctly, it only "bleeds air" when the motor is "off", or the stat is open of course.

Wouldn't any air in the block naturally rise to the top in a liquid and then be pushed out at the high end (front of the head) of the motor by flowing coolant?
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Unread 01-09-2013, 08:52 PM   #12
AZ Jeff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kstopp View Post
You should still fill up the coolant system with the cap off, let it run until it gets up to temperature with the heat on full and continue adding coolant until the level maintains. Then put the cap on and continue to check the overflow tank occasionally over the next little while.

Just because you have a hole in the T-stat does not ensure that there is not air trapped in a pocket somewhere in the block. Open systems still require burping...
They should NOT require burping if the system is working correctly. With the vent hole in the t'stat, and a properly functioning radiator cap, and a properly connected overflow tank, they are "self burping", assuming you fill the overflow tank up before and after running the engine after it's refill.
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