Replaced Battery, Voltage at 19 and check gauge light on. - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 39 Old 12-31-2013, 08:48 PM
skyway0018746
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The little wire is the signal wire to kick it in. But no power to the entire jeep...hmmmm try and remove the cable going to the alternator and tape or other wise insulate it and see if that helps.


7" long arm lift, HNT sye , herculined inside, bush wacker fender flares now geared and locked !!!
62 mm bored throttle body's fs - pm
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post #32 of 39 Old 12-31-2013, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
tbain235
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Ok Ill look into that in the morning. You think I could get some addition wire and try to run another ground line? I dont suppose theres anyone in Hawaii who wants to make 50 bucks?
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post #33 of 39 Old 01-01-2014, 10:12 AM
LumpyGrits
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Clean your gnd.
One of the biggest issues with Jeeps are pour gnd.
LG

Have'n you along, is like loose'n 2 good men
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post #34 of 39 Old 01-01-2014, 01:13 PM
JWELK
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The lead that gets hot is either defective (most likely) or you have something bad happening. I think the negative lead goes 2 places, chassis ground and a ground near the starter. There may also be one near the PDC (power distribution center). Don't bother to repair it, just go to your favorite store and get a new one with the appropriate length and lugs. The heat indicates a resistance, as the positive remains cool, it is probably OK for awhile. (Remember they are the same except for the colors, they have a life expectancy of X and it too will fail within a short period of time.? As for the voltmeter going to max, that could be a serious issue. After you get the new negative lead installed, remove the radio fuse. Start the car and check the meter, if it goes max shut it down immediately. Get a real voltmeter (preferably one with a "max" hold and attach it to your battery). If you're not familiar with this, skip the meter, buy a box or two of donuts and go the base ET or EM shop and look to see if there is a Jeep outside. Take the donuts to the Chief and ask for assistance. (A quick rule of thumb, meters and ET's good, guns and Marines good, switch these around and "bad 'tings hoppen mon"). The alternator is driven by the ECM, if it goes bad you will get at least 19 volts from the alternator. It will make "bad 'tings hoppen" to the lights, radio computer etc. Can you guess how I know this?
Happy New Year

Jim W
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post #35 of 39 Old 01-01-2014, 01:17 PM
LumpyGrits
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You want the same ga. wire on the neg battery to the engine block/starter.
You want pretty much the same to the frame and to the body.
LG

Have'n you along, is like loose'n 2 good men
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post #36 of 39 Old 01-01-2014, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
tbain235
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Well I feel like an idiot. The problem was the neg terminal was rusted out underneath. I cleaned the outside, but I never unscrewed it and checked. I spent an hour cleaning it with a wire brush, then reattached and it worked.

I found it by doing another ohms check. The pos to neg was 40, the pos to the ground that was past the neg was 0. This told me that the terminal was bad. When I checked this before it wasnt doing this, so I hope this is the only problem with it.

I really appreciate everybody helping me fix this, and will be sure to help the next person who has a problem like this.
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post #37 of 39 Old 01-01-2014, 03:16 PM
LumpyGrits
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Good news--Coat those clamps when your done.
NAPA has a dedicated battery terminal spray that works very well.
LG

Have'n you along, is like loose'n 2 good men
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post #38 of 39 Old 01-01-2014, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
tbain235
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Yeah Im going to cover all the wiring, also fix my fender that I broke off trying to clean a ground.
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post #39 of 39 Old 01-01-2014, 07:02 PM
skyway0018746
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Ah homer would say " dohh" hope that was it.

7" long arm lift, HNT sye , herculined inside, bush wacker fender flares now geared and locked !!!
62 mm bored throttle body's fs - pm
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alternator , battery , check guages light , dead battery

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