2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport
4.6L Golen Engine Stroker
6.5" TnT Customs Longarm Kitl Ford HP D60 l 6.5" Rock Krawler Coils l TnT Customs HD Trac Barl Omix Ada HD SYE l 1" UBEsl CV Driveshaft l39.5" IROKsl 17x9" Pro Comp 98sl High Clearance Shock Mounts [COLOR="red"] l Hidden Hitch l AJs Custom Front Bumper l SONY Xplod stereo l Alpine Speakers l TnT Frame StiffenerZ l 22" RE SS Brake Lines l 1.5" TnT Customs Boomerang Shackles l Sterling 10.25 *FULL WIDTHS* l JKS Mini Skids and Sway Bar Brackets l 7/8" Heim Joint High Steer
I havent done the all four yet, I dont usually use the rear seat at all, so I keep em. I assume they are the same, but I think it's tougher to get the plugs out, because they are right near the seatbelt roller for the front seat, I believe.
I have a 00 and have removed the front doors (kids so I wont remove the rears) and I do have a little sag on the drivers side. I am thinking about just welding a small piece inside the hinge to help support the weight of the door.
Thanks for the wright up...
2000 XJ Classic 4.0 rustys 4.5in Locked Flowmaster Exhaust, K&N Filter System
33's and cut, Front tow hooks. (more mods to come$?)
"Maybe, just once, someone will call me 'sir', without adding, 'you're making a scene'"
I would suggest using bolts. I have a set that I can slide through the hinge with no sagging on either door. If you grind the threads off it makes it super easy to take on and off. I also can remove/put on each door without any help.
im gunna do this soon so i was wondering what everyone thought was the best solution as a pin. I think i heard someone suggest drilling out the holes to 3/8" and using a 3/8" bolt or pin. Has anyone tried this? Why would a bolt be better? sorry to bring up an old thread
Red 1999 Cherokee sport: RE SF 3.5" kit w/ 1" shackle and spacer, RE HD trackbar and bracket, Cragar soft 8's w/ 32" maxxis Bighorns, Aj super rock rails, JCR offroad Stage 2 bumper w/ loop, flowmaster super 40, Hidden hitch.