Removing 97+ doors with power *write-up* - Page 11 - JeepForum.com

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post #151 of 174 Old 01-30-2011, 06:33 AM
swamp_runner
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I know this is a old post, but figured for future readers I'll add my 2 cents. I did this to my zj already, and really love it! I wanna do it to my xj, but its the nicest an newest thing I own, so I cannot bring myself to do it yet! lol! I had to remove my carpet in my zj after the first summer. Also another issue is remembering to lift the doors when you shut them (mostly passengers) or else it hits just on the edge of the hole an ruins you door ability to retain its latch after so many slams...I'm on my second passenger door now... lol


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post #152 of 174 Old 01-30-2011, 06:59 AM
DKDunn04
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I did it to my 01 XJ, using the 5/16 bolts. There is no sag after taking them off 4 or 5 times. Best mod ever.
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post #153 of 174 Old 02-26-2011, 07:22 AM
brianglawson
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I drilled the Body side of the hinge out and use McMaster Carr door bushings

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1998 Cherokee, 4.0, Auto, D30, 8.25, np231: Froehlich 3-Link, Rusty's 4.5" Coils & Leafs w/ Spacers & Shackles, TNT Trackbar, SS Brake Lines, JKS Discos, Iron Rock Tie Rod, 33" Firestone M/T's, Spidertrax Spacers, Rubicon 16x8, HD Offroad Stiffeners, JCR Stage2 Rails, AA SYE, Nitro 4.88, ARB 30 Spline F. Locker, 30 Spline Chromoly Front axles, Trac-lock R. LSD.
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post #154 of 174 Old 04-30-2011, 08:10 PM
jeepboy1990
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what size cotter pins or quick pins i want them to b snug i really dont want much sag
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post #155 of 174 Old 05-02-2011, 05:23 AM
Bandit1
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I would say to get ones that are a lil bigger and drill the hole out so they are snug to avoid the door sag...

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post #156 of 174 Old 05-02-2011, 07:03 AM
dcorn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKDunn04 View Post
I did it to my 01 XJ, using the 5/16 bolts. There is no sag after taking them off 4 or 5 times. Best mod ever.
Give it some time

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post #157 of 174 Old 05-03-2011, 09:15 AM
blackfire
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What do you guys think about drilling the top hinge for a removable bolt, but just unbolting the bottom hinge at the door? The way I've thought it through the door won't be as likely to sag since the stock hinge is holding on at the bottom. The downside is it'll take longer to put on and take off.

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post #158 of 174 Old 05-03-2011, 12:01 PM
dcorn
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At first I just popped out the door pins and used 5/16" bolts with the stock bushings. Worked fine, but the doors sagged pretty bad over time due to the bushings wearing out. It was also a huge pain to pull the bolts out each time and then line them up to put back in while holding an 80 lb door.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/time-beef-things-up-build-thread-sorts-540357/index3.html#post5076958

This post shows what I've done now pretty much. Take the hinge off the door, cut the bottom half off, drill out the top hole to 3/8" and weld a 3/8" bolt in there. Take the bushings out of the body side of the hinge and the bolt fits perfect in there. So now you bolt the hinge back up and taking off the doors is as easy as disconnecting wires and lifting the door off. The doors close much better now too, line up like stock (unless you come down hard on the a-pillar and tweak it...)


Oh, I think this is like the 4th time I've posted this same thing in this thread. People keep asking the same damn questions instead of just reading the thread...


And this is why my door doesn't close right



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post #159 of 174 Old 05-05-2011, 06:59 AM
brianglawson
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everyone that's breaking ****, you guys need to do some drilling, put some mcmastercarr 7/8 OD, 5/16 ID bushings in the body side, and use 5/16 bolts for pins. You are leaving to muchroom for slop!!!

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...Pilot010-1.jpg
1998 Cherokee, 4.0, Auto, D30, 8.25, np231: Froehlich 3-Link, Rusty's 4.5" Coils & Leafs w/ Spacers & Shackles, TNT Trackbar, SS Brake Lines, JKS Discos, Iron Rock Tie Rod, 33" Firestone M/T's, Spidertrax Spacers, Rubicon 16x8, HD Offroad Stiffeners, JCR Stage2 Rails, AA SYE, Nitro 4.88, ARB 30 Spline F. Locker, 30 Spline Chromoly Front axles, Trac-lock R. LSD.
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post #160 of 174 Old 05-05-2011, 07:01 AM
brianglawson
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Dcorn, I plan to do the same thing you did, but instead i will use aftermarket bushings in the body side of the Jeep, and 5/16 bolts welded instead of 3/8 due to the bushing sizes

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...Pilot010-1.jpg
1998 Cherokee, 4.0, Auto, D30, 8.25, np231: Froehlich 3-Link, Rusty's 4.5" Coils & Leafs w/ Spacers & Shackles, TNT Trackbar, SS Brake Lines, JKS Discos, Iron Rock Tie Rod, 33" Firestone M/T's, Spidertrax Spacers, Rubicon 16x8, HD Offroad Stiffeners, JCR Stage2 Rails, AA SYE, Nitro 4.88, ARB 30 Spline F. Locker, 30 Spline Chromoly Front axles, Trac-lock R. LSD.
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post #161 of 174 Old 05-05-2011, 12:01 PM
dcorn
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How are the bushings going to stay in there? My stock bushings were pretty much destroyed and eventually fell out. Take the doors off a few times and any bushing will fall out of there. I haven't had problems with mine squeaking or anything without bushings.

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post #162 of 174 Old 05-09-2011, 03:48 PM
Hummeron37s
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Great writeup.
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post #163 of 174 Old 06-04-2011, 07:28 PM
zacharydruhm
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Hey decorn i like the idea and plan to do the same however the holes on the door jam side are larger than 3/8 and cant find 7/16 bolts anywhere, i dont really want to drill them out to 1/2 inch, i think that would weaken them too much, any suggestions?
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post #164 of 174 Old 06-09-2011, 07:39 AM
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If you really can't find them, grind down a 1/2" bolt.. wont take much. Don't really need the threads...

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post #165 of 174 Old 01-10-2012, 12:26 PM
tshay0
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so where should i get new bushings for these and how much would they run i need to have 0 sag to actually do this but i want to so bad
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