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Unread 08-11-2009, 07:36 PM   #1
sprintagogo
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Rebuilding Nippon Denso Alternator 00-01 56041822AA

After sinking my Jeep in a muddy puddle yet again and watching the voltmeter drop for about the 4th time in 2 years I wasnít overly concerned and continued to drive around for a little while. After 2-3 minutes I realised the alternator wasnít going to come back on line like it always had done before, so something drastic was going to be needed. Initially I tried flooding it with clean water from a bucket while the engine was running in the hope whatever crap was causing the problem would be flushed out. This didnít improve matters so I then got serious and emptied about a third of a can of WD40 in through any hole I could get access to. Still no improvement in the vital signs.

It was mid afternoon on the Sunday of an off-road camping weekend so I figured now would be a good time to go and knock down camp and head home. The remaining battery charge got me the 50-60 miles home but then after stopping outside the house I didnít have enough charge to restart the motor. This was perfect timing, at least I had made it home and could throw the charger on overnight.

The next day I pulled the Alternator and for the first time since I got my Jeep I delved into the internals of the alt and just as expected found a set of gunged up brushes that were no longer making contact with the commutator/slip rings. A few moments with an old toothbrush and the alt was functional again but this inspection had revealed that the resurrection would be short lived for two reasons,
1st, the brushes only had 1-2mm of free travel left so would soon wear to the point of requiring replacement.
2nd, while the alt turned over freely, the bearings didnít feel 100% smooth so I didnít have faith in continued use.

Luckily I had a spare alt from a slightly older XJ and this was a very similar Nippon Denso unit which apart from the terminals at the back was physically interchangeable. I used this to act as a temporary replacement while I rebuilt the failed but more powerful unit. For info on the simple procedure to make the early alt a plug-in swap see this - www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=828918

00-01 type alt top and older pre-99 alt below.




Running the temporary alt gave me the chance to strip down the failing unit and source the parts needed for the rebuild. Just for the sake of thoroughness I will start at the beginning.

Removing the Alternator

BEFORE DOING ANY WORK ON THE ALT MAKE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!!

To remove the alt you will probably need to remove the electric auxiliary fan so the bottom pivot bolt can come out (when refitting the alt put the bottom bolt in from the rear so the fan doesnít have to be removed next time the alt comes out). The fan is held by 2 x 8mm head bolts at the top and clips into the rad frame at the bottom. You will need to loosen the power steering pipes clamp from the alt bracket to allow the fan to come out and a good tug will disengage the bottom clips. The alt is then held by 15mm headed bolts on the pivot and the top clamp. Loosen these then undo the tensioner bolt about 1Ē to remove tension from the serpentine belt. The wire connections at the back of the alt are a plug which has a squeeze catch and the main output cable which is a 10mm headed nut under a clip on insulation cover.



Now remove the top clamp nut and the bottom pivot bolt and the alt will easily fit out of the engine bay on the XJ models with the top mounted alt location.

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Unread 08-11-2009, 07:40 PM   #2
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Dismantling the Alternator

Once the alt is on the bench the first thing is to remove the insulation from the main +ve output post. This is held by a 10mm headed nut which once removed allows the plastic to be lifted off.



The next step is removal of the rear cover which is held by 4 x 8mm headed nuts/screws as circled.



The rear cover might be Ďstuckí by dirt and corrosion but at this stage should come off with a little persuasion. This will reveal a bright red/orange rubber cover over the brushes and then the brushes themselves can be removed by undoing the 3 x Ph#2 screws (do not be tempted to use pozi driver bits! Phillips are the best fit)



With the brushes out of the way you can now remove the component the 2 pin plug connects to which is circled in blue and secured with the 2 remaining Ph#2 screws circled in red.



Then undo the 4 screws that secure the windings to the diode plate.



And then lift out the rubber insulators from the winding terminals.



At this point I decided to split the alt casing so started by removing the 4 nuts holding the two halves together. 3 of the 4 nuts are circled in this picture with the 4th hiding by the +ve terminal post.



I had to forcibly separate the two halves even though once cleaned up they just slid firmly back together so you may be luckier than me when splitting the casing. To split the halves I used a threaded rod between the peices to open up a small gap then released the pressure and put a wedge into the opposite side which had opened up slightly before reapplying some pressure to further open the gap.



This left the slip ring end bearing stuck in the casing and this is just tapped out with a suitable drift being careful not to damage the washers that fit between the bearing and casing. Next job is to remove the front pulley so the armature can be removed from the main casing. This is a tricky job because try as I might I couldnít secure the pulley tightly enough to undo the 22mm pulley nut without risking damage to the pulley. Fortunately the armature spindle has a 10mm hexagon on the end and by creating a special tool using a 22mm socket and some old steel I had lying around I made a tool that allowed me to fit a socket onto the 10mm hex while undoing the 22mm nut.





Once the pulley is off the armature slides easily out of the front bearing. The front bearing is covered by a securing plate and once this plate is removed (4 x 7mm headed bolts) the bearing can be tapped out by resting the casing on a suitable piece of pipe. Be careful not to damage the winding wires during this stage!





Now once you have got this far the difficult part is over. The only possible complication would be if the slip ring end bearing stayed on the armature spindle rather than in the casing. Removing it from the spindle could be tricky without some kind of puller.

Replacement parts

You should now have 2 bearings and a brush cartridge that need to be replaced. I went to an alternator specialist locally and from the TN121000-xxxx number he could supply the bearings and brushes to order at a good price. As I was a bit tight I opted to service the existing brushes and just bought the bearings from him and loose brushes with copper flex tails (cost £1 instead of £12).



I worried about the quality of the new bearings but when they arrived they were an American made product and my regular bearing supplier couldnít get hold of any equivalent so I suspect they might actually be OEM?



PFI part numbers for the large front bearing is 949100-3330 and the smaller one is 949100-2790
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Quote:
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Quote:
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Sprintagogo, you're absolutely amazing. I don't care what they say about yall over across the pond - you're a godsend!
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Unread 08-11-2009, 07:43 PM   #3
sprintagogo
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Refurbishing the brush cartridge

If you choose to re-use the existing brush cartridge instead of replacing with a new item you only need a soldering iron to do this. First step is to remove the cover by sliding it down from the brush cartridge.



Remove the worn out brushes by melting the solder while pulling the brushes. This can be a bit tricky and takes a little more heat than you expect.

The new generic brushes are slightly different to the originals and this means the tails need to feed through the side of the spring coils before being fed into the terminal holes and soldered. Pull the tails tight enough to keep the brushes within the cartridge then trim the excess tails once the solder has cooled.





Now your brushes are ready to be re-used.

The rebuild

Putting the alt back together again is really quick compared to taking it apart, sourcing parts and fixing up the brushes.

First I drifted the large front bearing in and replaced the cover plate. I found my 36mm front hub socket was the perfect size to match the outer race diameter when tapping it into the casing.



At this point I grabbed some wire wool and gave the slip rings a rub to remove the grime and give the new brushes a fresh surface to bed into. Next locate the armature into the casing and refit the pulley and 22mm nut using the special tool made earlier.
Clean out the bearing housing in the other half of the casing and then carefully drift the small bearing onto the armature with a suitable pipe or deep socket. Be very careful not to damage the slip rings and donít forget the thin flat washer that fits between the bearing and armature here. Once the bearing is all the way home fit the flanged washer onto the spindle up tight against the bearing and rest the spring washer onto the bearing. Lower the casing onto the main body and push or tap it home till the two halves close together. Fit and tighten the four nuts to fasten the casing together.

The rubber insulators need fitting onto the 4 winding terminals now prior to installing the diode plate.



Then secure the diode plate with the four screws around the outside edge.



Replace the 2 pin plug and then the refurbed brushes





followed by the rubber cap prior to refitting the rear cover and +ve post insulation.



And that is the rebuild complete. You should hopefully have something that looks like this -



And see this once you reconnect the battery and start the motor -

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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HornedFrogHooah View Post
Sprintagogo, you're absolutely amazing. I don't care what they say about yall over across the pond - you're a godsend!
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Unread 08-11-2009, 10:12 PM   #4
AZ Jeff
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Good job, my man. Now how about a quick cleanup of the exterior with a wire brush, so as to convince all your mates you put in a new reman. alternator, instead of just doing the rebuild yourself? (Just kidding.)

Years ago, you used to be able to get ALL these kinds of parts for alternators and starters at the local auto parts stores. Nowadays, finding this stuff is a real challenge. I admire your ingenuity.
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Unread 08-31-2011, 01:36 AM   #5
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Found this in a google search, and thought I would revive the thread.

sprintagogo ... is your alternator still doing well? Anything you would differently in retrospect?

And ... does anybody know where to get an exploded diagram of the denso alternator?

Thanks.
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Unread 08-31-2011, 04:22 PM   #6
88beaterYJ
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I can look for one. And also, his naming of things is a bit off. Lookin at his makes me glad I do what I do for a living.
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Unread 08-31-2011, 08:07 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88beaterYJ View Post
I can look for one. And also, his naming of things is a bit off. Lookin at his makes me glad I do what I do for a living.
What was wrong on the naming? And what are the proper names?

And what do you do for a living?

Thanks.
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Unread 09-02-2011, 08:41 PM   #8
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The complete unit is called a stator, not windings, and the spinning part is a rotor, not an armature. And I rebuilt starters and alternators till I got laid off today.
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Unread 09-02-2011, 09:36 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88beaterYJ View Post
The complete unit is called a stator, not windings, and the spinning part is a rotor, not an armature. And I rebuilt starters and alternators till I got laid off today.
Dude ... I'm sorry to hear that. This economy sux. Are there any other rebuild shops in your area? Any lines on a new job? In the meantime, you might want to put up an ad on craigslist offering to rebuild starters & alternators. You could make some money while looking for work.

Good luck, hope you find some other work.
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Unread 11-21-2011, 05:23 AM   #10
sprintagogo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MontanaMan View Post
Found this in a google search, and thought I would revive the thread.

sprintagogo ... is your alternator still doing well? Anything you would differently in retrospect?

Thanks.
Hi, sorry for the delay, I don't get on here much these days but the Alternator is still going strong, Hasn't missed a beat since the rebuild.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 88beaterYJ View Post
The complete unit is called a stator, not windings, and the spinning part is a rotor, not an armature. And I rebuilt starters and alternators till I got laid off today.
LOL, I'm an amateur with absolutely no training in this area but stacks of DIY experience so I am not saying my part names are right or wrong but part of the difference could be a UK-USA thing. You guys sure have some funny names for the car and its parts (windscreen/windshield, boot/trunk, bonnet/hood, tyre/tire, Brake disc/Brake rotor, etc.....)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddeprived View Post
Who's eric?
Quote:
Originally Posted by HornedFrogHooah View Post
Sprintagogo, you're absolutely amazing. I don't care what they say about yall over across the pond - you're a godsend!
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Unread 11-21-2011, 06:36 AM   #11
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You noted the screw types as Phillips. is it possible they are Japanese Industrial Standard, which looks like Philips, but is slightly different?

http://www.instructables.com/id/When...rial-Standard/
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Unread 04-07-2012, 11:49 AM   #12
63FI
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Nippon? Alternator Parts. for '01 Cherokee

Where can you get diode packs, regulator and brushes for these alternators?
Mine says Denso TN121000-3780 and 822AB on the side. Autozone and Advance don't carry kits anymore.
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Unread 04-10-2012, 10:22 AM   #13
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try here
al.jpg  
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Unread 07-13-2012, 03:43 PM   #14
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Thanks for the write up sprint. Just finished my rebuild w/ your help!



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