[Sierra Drifter]

Dana 60 Rear Axle:

Ok so here is the rear axle. The Bill of Materials (BOM) on the tag attached to the axle is 603901-4. Between the Dana Expert site and Google searches I have determined that this axle is a Dana 60 originally from a 1979 F250 4x4. It is a full floater and the width WMS to WMS is 66 inches. These Ford D60 axles are very common and can be purchased very cheaply. I bought this one from a guy on Pirate4x4 for $100 dollars, complete and in very good condition.



The stock shafts in this axle are 30 spline and 1.31 inches in diameter. These dimensions are small, no better than a Dana 44 shaft really. To build a stout Dana 60 I need to run 35 spline 1.5 inch alloy shafts. So I bought a set of Yukon 35 spline, 1.5 inch, 1541h alloy shafts, along with a set of 5.13 gears. The shafts ran $120 each and the gear set was $160. Look at the size of that ring and pinion.



So here you can see the significant size difference between the stock 30 spline shaft and the Yukon 35 spline shaft. This Yukon shaft is 36" long with 6 inches of spline so that it can be cut to fit different Dana 60 applications. I'll be trimming off 1.5 inches.



Since I'm running 35 spline shafts, I ordered the RD35 model, ARB locker hopefully it will show up soon. So now I've got the beefy 1.5 inch shafts and a matching ARB and I"m all set, except for one minor detail.

Most Dana 60 rear axles, including this one, have spindles with an inside diameter of only 1.41 inch. Which obviously will not accommodate the 1.5 inch shafts. As far as I know, only the rare Ford HD rear Dana 60, and some Dodge D60's, came stock with 1.5" shafts. The Dana 70, and the corporate 14 bolt came stock with 1.5" shafts, but the Dana 70 and the 14 bolt are too big and heavy, and hang down too low.



The interesting thing about the Dana 60 and the Dana 70 spindles is that they both have the same outside diameter at 1.984. The only difference is the inside diameter. The Dana 70 spindle is bored out to 1.63 inches to accomodate the larger shafts. So apparently the spindle walls are thick enough to bore them out for 1.5 inch shafts. Boring them will make them exactly the same dimensions as the Dana 70 spindles. For a comparison of the Dana 60 and Dana 70 spindles see here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/D70/D70.htm

So, I have a few choices to remedy this issue. I can have the Dana 60 spindles bored out by a machine shop with a large lathe. I can cut off the Dana 60 spindles and have a set of Dana 70 spindles welded on. Or I can attempt to enlarge the inside of the spindle myself.

Several guys on Pirate4x4 said they had their spindles bored at a machine shop. I called at least 20 machine shops in the area and could not find one shop that would do it. Most of them had not done this before and were not interested in spending the time to do this one-time job. One differential shop offered to cut off the spindles and weld on Dana 70 spindles for $600.

So... I'm going to attempt to bore out the spindles myself with a homemade tool. If I ruin the spindles I'm out $100.
More to come.

[Sierra Drifter]

I read a thread somewhere in which a guy said he was able to bore out his Dana 60 spindles using a hole saw. I couldn't see how you could get a hole saw started straight and centered on the end of a spindle. After giving this some thought and perusing the local hardware store this is what I came up with.

I purchased 2 hole saws, 2 arbors and a drill extension.
Cost was $56, a bargain compared to a machine shop or an axle shop.
All the parts:

I assembled these like so.....



The first hole saw on the right is just a bit smaller than the diameter of the spindle and is there only to act as a centering guide. I put two wraps of nylon mesh tape around it so that it would be a nice snug fit. The second hole saw is 1.5 inch diameter and does the cutting to bore out the spindle. I know this looks pretty red-neck / booty-fab, but it works. We're only talking about cutting 1/10 of an inch around the inside diameter of the spindle.

Tonight I bored out one of the spindles. The spindles are 8 inches long and it takes about 10 min per inch to bore it out. I used a generous amount of thread cutting oil, I took my time and did not let the hole saw get too hot. So after a couple hours my freshly bored spindle looked like this.



This is the tool after boring the spindle.



The 1.5 inch hole saw actually cut a hole a little bit bigger than 1 1/2", almost 1 9/16", this is probably becuse of a slight wooble in the tool as it spun on the drill. In any case, I did a test fit and the 1.5 inch shaft slides right in, a perfect fit.
I'm rather pleased with myself

Tomorrow I'll bore the other spindle and move on to the axle brackets.

Update: it turns out the the 1 1/2 inch hole saw wasn't quite large enough as the shafts get a little bigger past the splined part. So I had to clearance the spindles a little more with a small cylinder hone and sanding drums.

[wil badger]

that had to be a work out?

i know i sent mine to a shop and had them put on a lathe.

[Sierra Drifter]

Originally Posted by wil badger

that had to be a work out?

i know i sent mine to a shop and had them put on a lathe.

It was a bit of work, but I didn't do it all in one sitting. I just did a couple inches at a time, with breaks.

Everyone says that they had a shop do the boring, but I swear I couldn't find one machine shop that would. I had 2 axle shops tell me it wasn't safe, that the only way to do it was to cut off the spindles and weld on D70, or 14 bolt spindles. Oh well.

[Sierra Drifter]

I haven't been able to work on the my XJ for a couple weeks.
So, finally I got a little bit done this week. First I finished collecting nearly all the parts I will need including:
ARB Locker
5.13 Ring and pinion
Master install kit
Ubolts
Spring plates
Shock mounts
Yukon 1.5 inch 35 spline alloy shafts
And..... 1.5 inch lift blocks.


I took an angle grinder to the original stock leaf spring perches and shock mounts and cut them off. I then took the housing, ARB and gears to a shop for installation. I should have it back in 2 days. Then its wheel bearings, seals, shafts, paint, brake lines and bolt it in. Once the rear axle is installed I will adjust the front ACOS to make it level, then I will install the new track bar bracket on the front axle.

I should have the rear axle installed and complete by next weekend.

[Sierra Drifter]

A little more progress.
ARB locker and 5.13 gears installed.


Spring perches and shock mounts welded in place. I just set them as the same disance from center as the stock spring perches. As for pinion angle, I used an angle finder on my stock diff it was at 15 degrees, so I set the D60 to 16 degrees upward slope.


Pulled the Chrysler 8.25 axle, anyone want to buy a 29 spline 8.25 with 4.56 gears and an ARB?
(8.25 rear is SOLD, front D30 axle is for sale with 4.56 gears and an ARB locker.)


The Ford Dana 60 did not come with hard brake lines, so I figured I was going to have to make or buy a set.
So I measured the distance between the brake backing plates, it was 55 inches.
Then I checked the same measurement on the Chry 8.25, it was 54 inches.
The D60 is about 6 inches wider than the stock 8.25, but it turns out that 5 inches of that is in the deeper hub and drum assemblies. As such the brake hard lines only need to be 1 inch longer than stock. So by changing a couple a couple bends I was able to use the stock 8.25 hard lines on the D60.



Unfortunately, the stock emergency brake cables will not work with the Dana 60.

Next I'll be installing new wheel bearings and seals.

[Sierra Drifter]

Compared to the front axle, the rear D60 hub/drum assembly is very simple and there's not much to it.

I had originally intended to convert this axle from drum brakes to disc brakes. However, the disc brake
kit which includes an emergency brake, runs nearly $500, and my budget isn't going to allow for that.
Maybe early next year I'll make the conversion.

I don't know the history of this axle, but when I first pulled the drums off I was very suprised to find that someone had done a complete brake job.
The springs, adjusters, shoes, all of it looks brand new. These brake shoes have 0 miles on them.



The brakes are good to go. On to the wheel bearings.
Like the D44 the D60 has an inner and outer wheel bearing in each hub/drum.
Here's a picture of the D60 brake drum next to the Chrysler 8.25 brake drum.
The D60 brake drum is huge, I'm hoping the braking improvement is huge also.



I used a short flat screw driver to pry out the seal, then lifted out the bearing. Next the bearing race must be tapped out from the front.


I tapped out the inner race from the front, then flip the drum over and tapped out the outer race.
These races are a very tight fit, requiring a lot more effort to both remove and install than the ones in the D44.


Now we're ready to install the new races, bearings, and seal.

[Sierra Drifter]

Unlike the D44, the inner and outer wheel bearings on the D60 are the same size.
I started by cleaning up the inside of the hub with brake cleaner.
Next I installed the inner wheel bearing race. I placed the old race on top of the new one. I used the old race to tap in the new one.


I then flipped the hub over and installed the outer bearing race the same way.


I cleaned up a lot of the rust inside the drum, then I packed the inner wheel
bearing with drum wheel bearing grease.
Disc brakes and drum brakes use different types of wheel bearing grease.
I worked as much grease as possible into the bearing, filling the voids.


Then I placed the bearing in the race.


Lastly, I installed the hub seal. I used a flat piece of steel to tap the seal in all the way against the rim of the hub.
The seal will hold the inner wheel bearing from falling out while installing the hub onto the spindle.

[Sierra Drifter]

Next I installed the hub/drum assembly onto the spindle, it takes a bit of working the hub around with force to get it all the way on.


Next is the outer bearing, axle nut, washer, and lock nut.


I packed the bearing with grease and installed it in the hub and over the spindle.
Next I threaded the axle nut onto the spindle and torqued it 65 ft/lbs while spining the hub.
I spun hub for a couple minutes to seat the bearing then torqued it again to 65ft/lbs, then backed off on the nut 1/4 of a turn, then re-torque to 20ft/lbs. Next I installed the lock washer. The lock washer has a tab on the inside edge that must line up with a slot on the spindle. I then installed the lock nut and torqued to 100 ft/lbs.

Bearing, axle nut, washer and lock nut installed.


Next I put on a fresh coat of Rustoleum semi gloss black.


Just about ready to bolt it in. A comparison picture Chrysler 8.25 vs Dana 60.

[Sierra Drifter]

I got the D60 bolted in with new 5/8" Ubolts. Then I connected the brake lines, ARB air line, and vent hose.


Next I installed the axle shafts.


Bling bling.... I was going to paint the axle end black, but I''m having a hard time
forcing myself to paint that shinny machined metal....


And finally I put the wheels/tires on. It's sitting on all four new tires for the fist time.


Next up, driveshafts. Getting very close to completion.

[dopod]

very sweet.

[JeepinJerimiah]

Jealous....very jealous.

[joey-nac]

Great write-up. I have learned a lot from it so far. Keep the progress coming.

[Jeepernick]

WOW I know what thread to read when I go to a D44/60or9 combo

[Blue XJ]

Awesome build up. Will reference it when I go full widths as well.