Rebuilding front dana 44. - Page 13

beneharris · 04-12-2009, 12:34 AM

no new updates?

sbarns · 04-29-2009, 05:27 PM

there must be something new you can teach us

any updates

best rig by far!!!!!!!

Gravesdiggerxj · 07-14-2009, 11:23 AM

updates man> how is the rig working?

MiNiBeast · 08-06-2009, 06:12 AM

Well this was one hell of a build up. Will take into account for alot of things as I'm working on the 44 install right now. Very informative as in what parts you used and name of where to get them. That will help a lot as 44's are new to me. Thanks for the great write up.

justanotherjpr · 01-11-2010, 02:39 AM

How is the Peel & Seal and rubber mat working?

Sierra Drifter · 02-23-2010, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justanotherjpr

How is the Peel & Seal and rubber mat working?

I haven't had any problems with the peel & seal after more than a year. I'd say the road noise was reduced by maybe 1/2. I do need to add some more sound deadening to the sides of the cargo area and rear wheel wells. That seems to be where I'm still getting noise from. One slight issue with the peel & seal is that the car smelled like asphault for a while until it finally fadded away.

Some day I'll update this thread, I have done a number of things to the XJ since I last posted. Lately I've been spending a lot of time with a couple new toys, a Harley Road Glide and a Honda ST1300. Between the XJ, the bikes, photography, and night classes I just don't have much time.....

99Greenmachine · 02-23-2010, 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sierra Drifter

I haven't had any problems with the peel & seal after more than a year. I'd say the road noise was reduced by maybe 1/2. I do need to add some more sound deadening to the sides of the cargo area and rear wheel wells. That seems to be where I'm still getting noise from. One slight issue with the peel & seal is that the car smelled like asphault for a while until it finally fadded away.

To add, i used your build as influence when I did my P&S. It has been almost a year since i added mine, and i have had no ill effects. My rig definitely didn't smell like asphalt when I did mine, but I have noticed some of the pieces in the doors are loosening up and falling off from time to time. I would say it did a pretty good job of making it more quiet, but I wish I had put some on the firewall, roof, and rear gate.

All in all, i think it did a decent job, but if I could do it again I'd find a bulk supply because I just kept running out and had to go get more haha. Made it a little more liveable....music is definitely better.

malsxj · 03-03-2010, 05:38 PM

Updates would be great!!! I am following your build exactly (except for the 35 spline 9 inch rear i put in)on my xj and would love to know how things are working out for yours.

Project1 · 04-21-2010, 02:30 PM

wait....

Just killer work all around man ... That rock track R-case is awesome, axles are awesome .. Jeeps just kick *** man ...

johnny9 · 10-20-2010, 10:52 AM

thank you for page one info on the hubs

do you have any info on the directions in oder to change the upper ball joint and the threaded pre load sleeve? hard to find what im looking for,,or just no luck yet,thanks

**foggybottombob** · 10-20-2010, 12:41 PM

This is the sequence for installing the outer knuckle back on the axle after you change the ball joints. The ball joints just press out and the lower one has a snap ring on the outside (bottom of the knuckle).
Dana 44 ball joint installation torque specs
D44 Spicer ball joint part # Spicer 706116X

1. Position the knuckle and sockets to the yoke. Install new nuts finger tight
to the upper (the nut with the cotter pin slot) and lower ball socket studs.

2. Push up on the knuckle (to keep the ball socket from turning in the knuckle)
while tightening the lower socket retaining nut. PARTIALLY torque the lower nut
to 30 ft. lbs.

3. Torque the yoke upper ball stud adjusting sleeve to 50 ft. lbs. using Spanner
J-23447.

4. Torque the upper ball socket nut to 100 ft. lbs. After torquing the nut, do
not loosen to install cotter pin, apply additional torque, if necessary, to align
hole in stud with slot in nut. Install cotter pin.

5. Apply FINAL torque to lower nut, 70 ft. lbs.

johnny9 · 10-20-2010, 03:52 PM

thanks fbb..i did just that thankfully..my instruction with the joints said to not tighten the upper sleeve unless the bottom joint was finger tight lol..gonna be some screwed up shade tree mechanics somewhere,haha i seen i had to snug the bottom before you could torque the sleeve so the directions were just wrong i had but figured it out,,thanks again

**koolaid5** · 03-02-2011, 02:22 AM

Great write up... thanks a lot. I just skimmed it, but I'll be referring back to it in over and over while attempting my D44 swap.

andrewmacc · 03-02-2011, 06:25 AM

Ditto. You wouldn't believe how much research I've been doing on this crap.. I'm having dreams and numbers and axle components drifting in and out.

I'm going 37"s (MTR or MtZ) as well, but doing Dana 60/Dana 70 (with a shave) because I'm sick of putting money into the tiny stock axles. H2 rims 17" dia., 9.5" wide, 5.5" backspacing, hi-steer inverted-T, etc etc.

Got the rims and axles sitting at home here, just have to start ripping it apart and ordering the bracketry.

How do you find the 37"s to be on the road? I'm sticking with radials because mine is a DD most of the time.
How did you happen upon the Rubic transfercase? Totalled vehicle?

**koolaid5** · 03-02-2011, 03:13 PM

I only have 33's , but FWIW I lovee my MTZ's. Mine was my DD as well, but now that it isn't I'll be going with something a bit more aggressive. I really wanted to go with 37's too, but the HUGE jump in price from 35's scared me off a bit. Not sure what to do now.