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Old 07-12-2008, 03:05 AM   #151
BlueGerbil
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Great project!

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Old 07-12-2008, 07:01 PM   #152
Sierra Drifter
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Small update

Continuing with the sound deadening....

Here's under the rear seat


Cargo area. Hmmm... seats look different..smells of leather


Rubber mat


Driver door. I installed the peel and seal on the inside surface of the outer door skin,
and then another layer on the inside surface under the door pannels.


At this point I put everything back together so I could go on a run up in the Sierras near lake Spaulding.
I still need to do the rear doors and the rear hatch. On my trip I noticed that the stereo speakers in the front doors
sound 100% better. The road noise up to about 55mph is significantly quieter, however at 65-70mph the noise from
the tires is still loud. I'm going to finish the rear doors and hatch and then work on the wheel wells to see if I can
further reduce the tire noise.
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Axle swaps & build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/rebuilding-front-dana-44-a-397243/
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Old 07-12-2008, 09:26 PM   #153
eliassami5
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i love the thread man..keep it up and hope you get a lot more out of your jeep with all the investments your putting into it

One thing tho, the sound deadening only works when it is applied directly onto the surface and it follows every curve of the metal, so on the last pick you put up i noticed gaps in the doors where you placed the material over or you didnt follow every curve of the door, that extra material wont do you much good just sitting there in the air..i would cut those areas out or press the material on the metal firmly and use the scraps on the rest of the car where you need little pieces here and there.

like these areas:
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Old 07-12-2008, 09:36 PM   #154
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Thats badass. I have plans for doing this as well (massive sound deadening project). What does that peel n seal consist of? It doesn't sound like it's designed to be an effective noise absorber/reflector. I'm probubly going to try out a fairly inexpensive industrial sound absorbing mat that Mcmaster Carr carries.

BTW, those ZJ seats?
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Old 07-12-2008, 10:49 PM   #155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryson View Post
Thats badass. I have plans for doing this as well (massive sound deadening project). What does that peel n seal consist of? It doesn't sound like it's designed to be an effective noise absorber/reflector. I'm probubly going to try out a fairly inexpensive industrial sound absorbing mat that Mcmaster Carr carries.

BTW, those ZJ seats?
Peel and Seal consists of a layer of asphalt, covered with an aluminum sheet.
From the Sound Deadener Showdown article here:
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com

"I have seen samples of Peel & Seal that are indistinguishable from the products you mentioned."

and then again in the conclusions:

"If you really need to do this in the absolutely least expensive way.... go to Home Depot or Lowes and get a roll or two of Peel & Seal. This is the least expensive option and you won't have to worry about shipping costs. I can see no difference in Peel & Seal and the asphalt based aluminum skinned products in this review."

Peel and Seal is not a good as the best butyl based sound deadeners but I'm not prepared to spend the money for those.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryson View Post
BTW, those ZJ seats?
The seats are from an XJ, earlier year, not sure exactly what year. Bought them pretty cheap on ebay. I made some adapters so they would work with my stock sliders. No tears or stains, really good condition. My cloth seats seemed to collect trail dust like a sponge and cleaning them was a pain. The leather should clean up easily.
Also the colors were a good match with my interior.



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2001 XJ RE 5.5 ED w/T&T Y-link longarm, 37" MTR's, D44/D60, ARB's, Rubicon Tcase, and all the usual junk.

Axle swaps & build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=397243

Last edited by Sierra Drifter; 07-17-2008 at 06:27 PM..
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Old 07-17-2008, 05:16 PM   #156
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hey i guess you missed it, but how do the brakes work, hows the pedal feel and all..? just curious.
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Old 07-17-2008, 06:20 PM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01xjRubidog View Post
hey i guess you missed it, but how do the brakes work, hows the pedal feel and all..? just curious.
My brakes work great. I have the Ford 3/4 ton dual piston calipers on front, and the Eldorado calipers on the rear axle.
I'm running stock MC and booster, and I removed the o-ring from the proportioning valve going to the rear brakes.
I can lock up 37's. However, the rears lockup much quicker than the fronts, so I may not have the balance front to rear exactly perfect.
The pedal feel is good, it is just a little lower than I would like, but I dont' have any probelm stopping.
KTMracer419 has the same rear brake setup, and he says he can lock up 37's on the pavement also.
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Axle swaps & build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=397243
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Old 07-17-2008, 08:08 PM   #158
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thats cool man. i was really worried about all that. any more details on this o-ring?

i was actually thinking of running 17 or 18 inch alloys with 40s on the road and 37s off road. those dual pistons are still more then enough to hold back 40s
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Old 07-17-2008, 08:37 PM   #159
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Peal and seal is used in industrial work to line roofs and things that need soundproofing from the outside, thats why its sold at homedepot. However once it gets hot the tar melts and creates a real mess, it gets everywhere and you can imagine what you would have to do in the future if you ever needed to remove the material.

I planned on pealing and sealing my trunk in my volvo (audio car) until i read about that and i got turned away, planning on going with b-quiet, brown bread, or dynamat.
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Old 07-17-2008, 09:12 PM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eliassami5 View Post
Peal and seal is used in industrial work to line roofs and things that need soundproofing from the outside, thats why its sold at homedepot. However once it gets hot the tar melts and creates a real mess, it gets everywhere and you can imagine what you would have to do in the future if you ever needed to remove the material.

I planned on pealing and sealing my trunk in my volvo (audio car) until i read about that and i got turned away, planning on going with b-quiet, brown bread, or dynamat.
According to the people who have tested these products, there is no difference between Peel and Seal and the other asphalt based products you mentioned. My Jeep sits in the sun all day, everyday, we recently had temperatures above 105, and the peal and seal is holding up just fine. There was a smell of asphalt for the first couple of hot days, but that has now fadded away. The comparison I read specifically mentioned that dynamat original, brown bread, and b-quiet were indentical to peel and seal.
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2001 XJ RE 5.5 ED w/T&T Y-link longarm, 37" MTR's, D44/D60, ARB's, Rubicon Tcase, and all the usual junk.

Axle swaps & build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=397243
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Old 07-17-2008, 10:37 PM   #161
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This is taken from the "Sound Deadener Showdown": http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/which/

Quote:
SBR(styrene-butadiene-rubber)/Asphalt

This is the least expensive material to use. It is predominantly asphalt with a latex polymer, the SBR part, added for stability. Asphalt has one virtue. It is cheap. They make roads out of it. Unfortunately, it has several negative features that limit its usefulness for our purposes. It melts at a relatively low temperature. It becomes brittle at a relatively high temperature. Both states are bad for us. Optimum viscoelasticity requires that the material not be liquid or solid. Basic mass loading requires that the material adhere to the surface we want it to. If it melts, it will fall off vertical or inverted surfaces. If it becomes brittle, it is susceptible to detaching under normal vibrations.
Quote:
The rubber compound is added to the asphalt to stabilize it. SBR/asphalt melts at a higher temperature and becomes brittle at a lower temperature than plain or "neat" asphalt. This doesn't completely solve the problem. SBR is subject to long term deterioration at temperatures that are possible in a car.
I do not believe that the peal and seal you buy from home depot/hardware store has the rubber compound added to it since it is considered plain or "neat" asphalt, and its intended purpose was for roofing and outdoor projects. But as for B-quite or BrownBread and others, you are right that they also use asphalt as their adhesive, but they have been added with the rubber compound as to prevent the melting at lower temps and etc. That was my concern.

oh and i forgot to add this one:
Quote:
I looked at the specifications for products developed for roofing, which many of the products in this category began life as, I saw the problem. Roofing materials are designed to withstand temperatures of 158°F for two weeks without melting. Manufacturers supply butyl products for situations that will either exceed this temperature or duration. Extend the time and the maximum sustainable temperature falls. This explains why some people have had success with asphalt mats for a few years, only to have them fail in a subsequent year. Failure can be disastrous. If you're lucky, the mat will just fall off. If you're not, it will melt - pools of asphalt in your carpet or upholstery or window mechanism.
And since you live in a place where regular temps are 105 degrees i think it will take less then a year for the peal and seal to fail.

Last edited by eliassami5; 07-17-2008 at 11:05 PM..
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Old 07-17-2008, 11:45 PM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eliassami5 View Post
And since you live in a place where regular temps are 105 degrees i think it will take less then a year for the peal and seal to fail.
I live in the San Francisco bay area where the temperature rarely reaches 90. Maybe a couple times a year it reaches 100. Peel and seal is suposed to be good up to 158 degrees, it's a roofing material, it has to be able to survive in direct sun for years. I might be wrong, but based on reviews from others who have used it I think it will be ok.
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2001 XJ RE 5.5 ED w/T&T Y-link longarm, 37" MTR's, D44/D60, ARB's, Rubicon Tcase, and all the usual junk.

Axle swaps & build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=397243
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Old 07-18-2008, 12:05 AM   #163
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I also live in the bay area and it often gets hot here, and it stays that way for weeks

Quote:
Roofing materials are designed to withstand temperatures of 158°F for two weeks without melting. Extend the time and the maximum sustainable temperature falls.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sierra Drifter View Post
My Jeep sits in the sun all day, everyday, we recently had temperatures above 105
Over time the max sustainable temp will drop to less than 100 degrees. And parked in a lot on a sunny day the inside of your jeep can reach 110 or higher.

Im not tryin to be d**k or anything lol..just wanna warn people to what could and eventually will happen.

Still love your thread
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Old 07-18-2008, 12:32 AM   #164
Sierra Drifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eliassami5 View Post
I also live in the bay area and it often gets hot here, and it stays that way for weeks
Over time the max sustainable temp will drop to less than 100 degrees. And parked in a lot on a sunny day the inside of your jeep can reach 110 or higher.
Im not tryin to be d**k or anything lol..just wanna warn people to what could and eventually will happen.

Still love your thread
Well we could discuss forever, so this will be my last post on peel and seal. This is a photo of several materials after 15 minutes at 200°F.



Left to right:
eDead v1SE˛
RAAMmat BXT
Dynamat Xtreme
FatMat
Peel & Seal
R-Blox
Sound Destroyer
Grace Vycor
eDead v1˛

For adhesive and melting, Peel and Seal outperformed several comercial sound deadening products including FatMat, sound Destroyer and Grace Vycor. Only the butyl based products were better.
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2001 XJ RE 5.5 ED w/T&T Y-link longarm, 37" MTR's, D44/D60, ARB's, Rubicon Tcase, and all the usual junk.

Axle swaps & build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=397243
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Old 07-18-2008, 12:47 AM   #165
eliassami5
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lol k i wont say anymore on the peal and seal deal since my posts aren't being read too carefully
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