Build thread, axle swaps Dana HP D44/60, high steer, rubicon tcase, long arms, and other junk.
This thread was originally about rebuilding my Ford Dana 44, however, it has evolved into a
full blown build thread including swaping axles, and a few additional items.
These are the items I hope to cover in this write-up.
1. Dana 44 axle rebuild - done
2. Axle bracket installation -done
3. JKS Adjustable Coil Over Spacers - done
4. Rubicon Express track bar frame mount brace - done
5. Custom high-steer - done
6. Dana 60 rear axle - done
7. Installing conversion u-joints in my drive shafts - done.
8. Converting drum brakes to disc brakes on the D60 rear - done
9. TnT Ylink long arm upgrade - done
10. TnT frame stiffners - done
11. NV241OR 4:1 t-case install - done
12. TMR frame stiffeners -done
13. Sound deadening - in progress
14. New paint job -
15. Do-it-yourself hydroboost brakes -
16. Hydro assist steering -
17. Full cage -
My XJ is a 2001 sport that I bought bone stock in 2003 with 36K miles on it.
At the start of this build up it sits on 35 inch Nitto Teragraplers (AT's), and a RE 5.5 inch short-arm
lift that I installed in 2004. It has stock D30/Chry 8.25 axles with 4.56 gears and ARB's front and rear.
My goal is to run 37 inch tires without breaking axle parts, and to maintain good street manners and reliability.
I'm installing chromoly shafts front and rear, super u-joints, Warn premium locking hubs, 5.13 gears, and 1 ton high-steer.
I paid $300 for the high pinion D44 front, and I paid $100 for the D60 rear.
The high pinion front D44 is from a 78 Ford F250 and came with 5 lug and 8 lug outers.
The D60 rear is a full floater from 79 F250. I am going to run 8 lug and full width.
I like the added stability of a full width axle.
Rebuilding the front Dana 44:
Picture of Dana 44 as I got it. I stripped it down to the bare housing, had it bead blasted and then I painted it with rustoleum primer.
Then I painted it with semi-gloss black rustoleum premium pant.
Moser 4340 chromoly inner and outer axle shafts
Yukon Super U-joints
ARB Air Locker
Yukon 5.13 Ring and pinion set
Master install kit
Flat-top steering knuckles
Warn Premium Locking Hubs
Wheel bearings, races, spindle bearings, slingers, and seals
Since I don't have a press, bearing puller, set-up bearings, dial indicator, or a clue
I elected to have a shop install the ARB locker and 5.13 gears.
Picture of all the parts in the D44 from the inner shafts to the locking hubs.
1. Install slinger on outer stub shaft.
The slinger is basically a large metal washer that holds a rubber seal and a plastic thrust washer in place. The rubber seal keeps
contaminants from entering from the back side of the steering knuckle. Be sure to install the slinger all the way on the shaft.
I used a hammer and a flat piece of metal, working around in a circle.
If you don't get it all the way on, you won't be able to install the last snap ring on
the end of the shaft and you will have to disassemble everything and do it all
again. Ask me how I know.
2. Install axle shaft Ujoints, seal and the thrust washer.
The ujoints I used are Yukon SuperJoints. They install a little differently than normal OEM joints. I followed Yukon's directions and
used a socket and a hammer to tap the caps into the shaft ears, Yukon does not recommend using a press.
You have to place the snap rings on the cross before you put the cross in the ears of the shaft.
The picture on the right shows ujoints installed, and rubber seal placed on slinger.
The Yukon joints do not have needle bearings and are greasable and come with their own grease gun and anti-seize grease.
The slinger can be purchased here: http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...ger__outer.htm
The seal is here: http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...repair_kit.htm
Ujoint here: http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...oint__each.htm
3. Install ball joints into steering knuckles.
I used a hand press to install the ball joints. This press is available on e-bay for $50 and works well.
Pressing in the ball joints is pretty straight forward just make sure they are all the way in and the bottom
ball joint must have a snap ring installed. You must do the bottom ball joint first, the long screw shaft part
of the press has to pass throught the upper ball joint hole in the knuckle when you press in the bottom ball joint.
To be continued.....