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Unread 07-04-2011, 02:21 PM   #61
BassMasterCHS
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Took the valve cover and oil pan off. The head looks a lot better than mine, as far as sludge goes. What's the best way to clean out the oil pan? I'm going to put in a new oil pump, check the bearings and replace the rear main seal before I put it all back together.

forumrunner_20110704_161816.jpg   forumrunner_20110704_161838.jpg   forumrunner_20110704_161910.jpg  
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Unread 07-10-2011, 07:05 PM   #62
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When I take the head on my original motor to a machine shop, what should I have them do?
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Unread 07-11-2011, 06:00 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassMasterCHS View Post
When I take the head on my original motor to a machine shop, what should I have them do?
I would have them check it for straightness, have it magnifluxed or zyglo for cracks. If not cracked. Then decked (milled down) if not straight. Then I'd have the valves and valve seats reground. A 3 or 5 angle valve job. I'd have them check for vavle guide wear. Have it corrected by sleeves, not by knurling the valves. You might need new valves at that point. New valve stem seals. I'd probably be expecting $150 to $200 worth of work.
Tom
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Unread 07-11-2011, 05:04 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 75SV1

I would have them check it for straightness, have it magnifluxed or zyglo for cracks. If not cracked. Then decked (milled down) if not straight. Then I'd have the valves and valve seats reground. A 3 or 5 angle valve job. I'd have them check for vavle guide wear. Have it corrected by sleeves, not by knurling the valves. You might need new valves at that point. New valve stem seals. I'd probably be expecting $150 to $200 worth of work.
Tom
Thanks for the info!
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Unread 07-11-2011, 05:10 PM   #65
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Hmm, now that I think of it, how about the block I just got that's going into it?
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Unread 07-12-2011, 04:54 AM   #66
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Hmm, now that I think of it, how about the block I just got that's going into it?
As for the block, its suppose to have 83K on it. For a 4.0L, thats just getting settled in. When you have the head off, I'd check for straightness of the top surface. Other than that, I'd probably get a new water pump. I'd look into a Robert Shaw or Mr. Gasket Hi-Flow Thermostat. I'd get the stock temp one. I'd probably check the timing chain, for any streatch. It should be good, if it has only 83K on it. It really depends on what was replaced on the rebuild. If done right, then you should have to replace much if anything.
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Unread 09-12-2011, 07:05 PM   #67
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Just updating the build, I have all the Fel-Pro gaskets for the motor, just waiting on the oil pump which should be here tomorrow.

Should I get new valve springs too? Looking to have all this done by the end of October!
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Unread 09-13-2011, 04:23 AM   #68
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How many miles were on those springs? Did a shop do the heads? If a shop did, then I'd ask them. If they say they are OK, then it comes down to money and what a new set of springs would cost.
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Unread 09-13-2011, 04:00 PM   #69
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This has been a good read! Keep up the good work and lots of pics with updates! Thanks!
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Unread 09-13-2011, 04:32 PM   #70
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Either do a real rebuild, or bolt in the used motor, engine flush it, and run it. It's insane to half *** have the head worked on but not have the short block completely rebuilt.

And 150-200 for the head work is WAY off. more like 100 to disassemble, clean and reassemble, 100+ for valve job, 150 for valve guide sleeves and machining, plus parts.

Clean it, drop it in, run it.
Or spend cash and rebuild the whole long block top to bottom, and spend at least what a reman long block would have cost ready to go.
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Unread 09-13-2011, 08:17 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boodyrider
Either do a real rebuild, or bolt in the used motor, engine flush it, and run it. It's insane to half *** have the head worked on but not have the short block completely rebuilt.

And 150-200 for the head work is WAY off. more like 100 to disassemble, clean and reassemble, 100+ for valve job, 150 for valve guide sleeves and machining, plus parts.

Clean it, drop it in, run it.
Or spend cash and rebuild the whole long block top to bottom, and spend at least what a reman long block would have cost ready to go.
The engine I bought is a 88. The head won't work with my 93 so that's why I'm rebuilding the head I have currently in my jeep..

I don't have bottomless pockets, I earn an honest dollar busting my ***.
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Unread 09-13-2011, 08:21 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by 75SV1
How many miles were on those springs? Did a shop do the heads? If a shop did, then I'd ask them. If they say they are OK, then it comes down to money and what a new set of springs would cost.
Tom
Hey Tom, I have 227k on my original head. I've yet to take it off and take it to the shop because I can't be without my jeep for too long. I'll look into the cost and see what the shop says when I bring the head in.

Just trying to be prepared for the big day.
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Unread 09-13-2011, 08:23 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by 4X4XJJeep
This has been a good read! Keep up the good work and lots of pics with updates! Thanks!
Thanks for the encouragement! I definitely will be uploading new pics as I progress.

Just got my oil pump today, finally.
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Unread 09-13-2011, 08:24 PM   #74
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Here it is!
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Unread 12-11-2011, 09:39 AM   #75
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Finally preparing the 88' block to drop in. I went ahead and purchased a subscription to alldata, but for the year of my Cherokee.

Does anyone know the size of the freeze plugs for the 88 block? Called up Napa and they wanted to know a size before giving me some. I've read that brass plugs are the best.

I'll be updating the thread soon with pics!
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