Rebuild Vs. New Engine - Page 4 - JeepForum.com

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post #46 of 107 Old 06-30-2011, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
BassMasterCHS
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Thanks for the tips so far everyone. I just got an email from the guy with the 88 short block, only has 83k on it. Might be picking it up today! How much do these things weigh? Here's a picture of it as it sits.

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3 Inch lift, 30" BFG AT's, Walmart lights up front.
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post #47 of 107 Old 06-30-2011, 02:27 PM
75SV1
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Originally Posted by BassMasterCHS View Post
Thanks for the tips so far everyone. I just got an email from the guy with the 88 short block, only has 83k on it. Might be picking it up today! How much do these things weigh? Here's a picture of it as it sits.
I think the 4.0L is a bit heavy. I am thinking 350-400 lbs.
Tom
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post #48 of 107 Old 06-30-2011, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
BassMasterCHS
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Okay, that's fine. He has a lift, and I'll be putting it in the back of my jeep on a tire. I'll be grabbing it tomorrow morning. I'm stoked.

3 Inch lift, 30" BFG AT's, Walmart lights up front.
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post #49 of 107 Old 07-01-2011, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Got the engine! Pictures later. Said he used 20 50 oil in it?

3 Inch lift, 30" BFG AT's, Walmart lights up front.
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post #50 of 107 Old 07-01-2011, 02:19 PM
75SV1
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Got the engine! Pictures later. Said he used 20 50 oil in it?
Unless he was trying to mask loose rings. It shouldn't have loose rings at that milage. Some people grew up that 20W-50 was racing oil. The drag racers used it, so it must be good for the street. I ran that weight in a 351W. It cost me about 2 mpg. I'd try Rotella. a 10w-40 should be good. Some are running 15W-40. I think I ran that in my RENIX 4.0L. It did OK. Rotella is formulated for diesels. The older ones. It should have a higher content of Zinc. That should protect your tappets and cam lobes. Also, I remember you are in Florida. So, higher temps, means a bit thicker oil. I'd probably gage it by what PSI of oil pressure the motor runs.
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post #51 of 107 Old 07-01-2011, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 75SV1

Unless he was trying to mask loose rings. It shouldn't have loose rings at that milage. Some people grew up that 20W-50 was racing oil. The drag racers used it, so it must be good for the street. I ran that weight in a 351W. It cost me about 2 mpg. I'd try Rotella. a 10w-40 should be good. Some are running 15W-40. I think I ran that in my RENIX 4.0L. It did OK. Rotella is formulated for diesels. The older ones. It should have a higher content of Zinc. That should protect your tappets and cam lobes. Also, I remember you are in Florida. So, higher temps, means a bit thicker oil. I'd probably gage it by what PSI of oil pressure the motor runs.
Tom
That's funny you mention that, he said he uses to drag race back in the day. Said that's all he ran. Thanks for the input! Still haven't gotten it out of the back of the jeep yet, that should be a puzzle.

3 Inch lift, 30" BFG AT's, Walmart lights up front.
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post #52 of 107 Old 07-02-2011, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
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Here;s some pictures. I'm trying to find the bolt sizes for the back to mount it to the engine stand. If anyone knows, let me know. It's an '88 block.
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IMAG0909.jpg   IMAG0910.jpg   IMAG0913.jpg  

3 Inch lift, 30" BFG AT's, Walmart lights up front.
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post #53 of 107 Old 07-02-2011, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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Turns out that the top bolts are 3/8's and the bottom ones are 7/16's for the '88 block. Got it out of my jeep by myself with just an engine stand. That thing is a beast.

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post #54 of 107 Old 07-02-2011, 09:15 PM
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I am thinking of building a stroker on the cheap. I can get a complete engine at the junkyard for 199.99$ plus a 25$ core charge...
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post #55 of 107 Old 07-02-2011, 11:48 PM Thread Starter
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Didn't realize I needed much shorter bolts, 4 or 5 inch will probably do. Getting grade 8 hardware for the top, too. First thing to do tomorrow.
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3 Inch lift, 30" BFG AT's, Walmart lights up front.
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post #56 of 107 Old 07-03-2011, 06:04 AM
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The first thing I would do is hose everything down with Royal Purple or Purple Power or some crazy-strong cleaner and pressure wash it. That's what I did with mine and it made everything so much nicer to work on.

My build thread has pics again. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f177/kevin108s-2000-xj-build-867428/
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post #57 of 107 Old 07-03-2011, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
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My buddy is in the pressure washing/ sealing business, so he has the real deal to get it cleaned up. Hot hot water and a serious pressure washer ought to do it.

3 Inch lift, 30" BFG AT's, Walmart lights up front.
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post #58 of 107 Old 07-03-2011, 09:22 AM
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I would worry about getting water where you don't want it and getting rust.
I use cheap Autozone brake parts cleaner. Its the best degreaser you can use.

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post #59 of 107 Old 07-03-2011, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
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Fixed it up
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ForumRunner_20110703_185949.jpg   ForumRunner_20110703_190039.jpg   ForumRunner_20110703_190150.jpg   ForumRunner_20110703_190222.jpg  

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post #60 of 107 Old 07-04-2011, 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by FairlanePhil View Post
I would worry about getting water where you don't want it and getting rust.
I use cheap Autozone brake parts cleaner. Its the best degreaser you can use.
I would worry about it if electrical things were hooked up. As it was, I put a cat food can over the throttle body and taped over the AC compressor and alternator.

My build thread has pics again. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f177/kevin108s-2000-xj-build-867428/
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