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Unread 02-10-2011, 04:38 PM   #31
tjwalker
It's the crank sensor!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEEPDAVIS View Post
91 to 99 will bolt right up, you wont have to change nothin.. 2000 and up will too i believe but ive heard there was somthin wrong with the block castings in 2000.. i dunno that forsure tho cause ive never owned one, thats just what ive read somwhere.
Block is okay on the 00-01, it is the 0331 cylinder head that has a problem and that existed only on the 00-01 XJ.

A known casting defect between cylinders 3-4. This defect makes this head more prone to cracking, especially upon an engine overheat.

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Unread 02-10-2011, 05:12 PM   #32
BassMasterCHS
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Cool. Let me just clarify. The alternator, a/c pump, power steering pump, and accessories will bolt onto any 91 or newer block without any modifications and will mount into my Jeep? And my 93 computer, intake and headers will fit as well?

Just trying not to make a 200 dollar mistake. Don't mean to be a bother.
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Unread 02-11-2011, 10:32 AM   #33
JEEPDAVIS
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as far as i kno thats correct,,im pretty sure all of that is the same on all cherokees (except on non ho engines).. i kno they have different alternator or ac pump mounts on some yj's and tj's but i dont think they changed it on any of the cherokees.. dont quote me on that tho cause i dont claim to be an expert... i kno forsure tho that the computer, intake ,exaust manifold, water pump and power steering pump will bolt on... you might have to swap some mounting brackets for the alternator and ac pump, but they should also bolt right on ... someone correct me if im wrong
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Unread 02-11-2011, 10:34 AM   #34
JEEPDAVIS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjwalker View Post
Block is okay on the 00-01, it is the 0331 cylinder head that has a problem and that existed only on the 00-01 XJ.

A known casting defect between cylinders 3-4. This defect makes this head more prone to cracking, especially upon an engine overheat.
i knew there was somethin wrong with them, just couldnt remember exactly what i read
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Unread 02-11-2011, 11:11 AM   #35
smitty81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEEPDAVIS View Post
i just ordered a reman from marshall engines outa nebraska.. it was $1595 shipped, including the $395 core charge.. it came with a 3yr 100,000 mile warranty.. ive heard good things about them and i figured with as much driving as i do if any thing tears up on it ,it will do it befor the warranty is up.. but hopefully nothin will tear up (fingers crossed)... good luck

Im from nebraska and have been through their facility before.

I will vouch for Marshall motors. I have sold a number of them and had no problems with them. Their customer service is good too.
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Unread 02-11-2011, 11:32 AM   #36
Mikeand
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Strokers dont last as long? Do it properly and youd have no problems, Ive got 100k on my stroker I built and no problems at all. Drive it everyday to work.
If spending money on an engine a stroker is the only way Id go now. $1500 would build you a pretty nice budget build..
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Unread 02-11-2011, 11:46 AM   #37
75SV1
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Originally Posted by BassMasterCHS View Post
I tried searching for some info, but couldn't find it. Which years of 4.0's will fit into my Jeep? 92-96? Will I need to pull the computer from the donor too? I'll be getting an engine within the nest week. Just waiting on the tax return.

I'll be doing a write up once I start tearing apart the motor and rebuilding it.
91-95 will be a replacement. Other years will fit, or bolt in. The problem is the changes in the heads from different years. The 91-95 had an extra temp sensor in the head. It is on the driver side of the head. The 96 to 99 are basically the same head, except they don't have this port or hole for the temp sensor. So, you could use a short block from any year. Or at least up to 01, probably 02. I did use an '03 block and there was a porblem with the engine mount bosses.
Tom
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Unread 02-11-2011, 12:05 PM   #38
smitty81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjwalker View Post
Block is okay on the 00-01, it is the 0331 cylinder head that has a problem and that existed only on the 00-01 XJ.

A known casting defect between cylinders 3-4. This defect makes this head more prone to cracking, especially upon an engine overheat.
mines a 99 and it has the 0331
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Unread 06-26-2011, 04:10 PM   #39
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Would everything from my 93 motor bolt up to this 88 4.0 renix motor?

I've got the funds and time now to get a used motor, so if anyone local sees this and knows someone selling, let me know! Thanks.
http://tampa.craigslist.org/hdo/pts/2455863179.html
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Unread 06-27-2011, 12:22 PM   #40
75SV1
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Originally Posted by BassMasterCHS View Post
Would everything from my 93 motor bolt up to this 88 4.0 renix motor?

I've got the funds and time now to get a used motor, so if anyone local sees this and knows someone selling, let me know! Thanks.
http://tampa.craigslist.org/hdo/pts/2455863179.html
The block should interchange. HEads bolt up to any 4.0L blocks. Using your head, then you can use your intake and exhaust header. I'd use yours or a new cam.
Tom
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Unread 06-28-2011, 01:28 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 75SV1 View Post
The block should interchange. HEads bolt up to any 4.0L blocks. Using your head, then you can use your intake and exhaust header. I'd use yours or a new cam.
Tom
Thanks for the help, I'm hoping it's still for sale. The prices locally for used engines are insane!
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Unread 06-28-2011, 03:11 PM   #42
Kevin108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cornbrizzle View Post
http://www.titanengines.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=9&zenid=ih63is45cl 7jgur5inhsfpvq67


Call and talk to Chuck , He will put a rebuild kit together for you , sell you a new motor, or he will rebuild your motor for you .




Brizzle
Great company! I bought my upgraded 0331 head from them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BassMasterCHS View Post
Thanks for the help, I'm hoping it's still for sale. The prices locally for used engines are insane!
Definitely keep an eye on Craigslist. If you have an Android phone, get the Craigslist Notifier. All the local junk yards wanted $1,000 for a used engine. After 6 months or so of my Heep sitting, I hit up Craigslist and found a 4.0/AW4/NP242 combo out of a 99 with 167,000 miles. The engine included all the accessories and sensors as well along with 90% of the wiring harness and the computer. $500 got it all. Dad and I just finished the install last night. He took it to get it inspected for me while I was at work today. I'm getting ready to head to his house to pick it up.

Good luck with your search!
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Unread 06-28-2011, 04:35 PM   #43
BassMasterCHS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin108

Great company! I bought my upgraded 0331 head from them.

Definitely keep an eye on Craigslist. If you have an Android phone, get the Craigslist Notifier. All the local junk yards wanted $1,000 for a used engine. After 6 months or so of my Heep sitting, I hit up Craigslist and found a 4.0/AW4/NP242 combo out of a 99 with 167,000 miles. The engine included all the accessories and sensors as well along with 90% of the wiring harness and the computer. $500 got it all. Dad and I just finished the install last night. He took it to get it inspected for me while I was at work today. I'm getting ready to head to his house to pick it up.

Good luck with your search!
Thanks man! Any tips or warnings as far as a build/removal/install goes?
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Unread 06-28-2011, 06:19 PM   #44
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Having swapped a motor 2 days ago: get some extensions for your socket sets, drop the trans mount, have a good jack possibly two. Take out the radiator, you can get the motor in with the radiator in place, but spending an hour pulling it out is better than maneuvering the engine for an hour. Pull the engine mounts with the motor, as they like to get in the way if you leave them in the bay. other than all that the bolts in the bell housing are the hardest part.
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Unread 06-30-2011, 05:44 AM   #45
Kevin108
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I took off the header panel, radiator and fans. It gave us a lot more room to work.

You can set the power steering pump and AC compressor off to the side without disconnecting anything. Same goes for the starter.

Drop the engine in first with no cylinder head. That will let you tighten the top two bellhousing bolts from up top. When it's time to put the head on, bolt the intake and exhaust manifold to the head before setting it all in place.

The top two bellhousing bolts are inverse Torx. Their sizes begin with E and most people do not have these sockets in their tool kits. Most people swap these out for standard hex head bolts. You will also need a special tool to disconnect the fuel line if you opt to remove the intake and exhaust and drop them in with the head.




Cut the top threads off of the drivers side rear head bolt and relocate the ground strap. With the threads on top, it's difficult if not impossible to get a torque wrench on it.

If I think of anything else, I'll update this post.
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