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Unread 01-18-2011, 12:00 PM   #1
BassMasterCHS
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Rebuild Vs. New Engine

I'm going to putting another engine in my Jeep soon. I'm between buying a new one from Napa or some other site, or buying a junker one and having it machined and rebuild it myself.

The engine at Napa is 1,700.

The rebuild kit I found here is 450.00.
http://www.promarengine.com/engineki...0Kit%20&notes=

Can someone who's done either before tell me what route you took and what problems you ran into? How much it costs to have it machined?

Anyone from Tampa or around here, could you recommend me a shop?

Any tips would be helpful. Thanks!

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Unread 01-18-2011, 12:23 PM   #2
cornbrizzle
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http://www.titanengines.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=9&zenid=ih63is45cl 7jgur5inhsfpvq67


Call and talk to Chuck , He will put a rebuild kit together for you , sell you a new motor, or he will rebuild your motor for you .




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Unread 01-18-2011, 04:22 PM   #3
tjwalker
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Get a few estimates before deciding.

A rebuild or purchasing a reman. is a big ticket item..............

Nice to go local for support if there is an issue. That is, if the numbers are fair.
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Unread 01-18-2011, 04:36 PM   #4
mecompco
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Check out Jon Kelley's website--he has a really good book on building/rebuilding the 4.0.

Michael
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'94 Cherokee Country
Engine: 4.0 HO, Sealed canister filter, 3 core CSF steel radiator, CatCo cat, Dynomax Turbo Flow muffler.
Electronics: Remote start/locks, Pioneer DEH-P7800MP w/XM, Polk Audio speakers, Garmin Nuvi 660 GPS, Cobra 148 GTL P&T w/Wilson 1000.
Suspension: Old Man Emu 3" lift+OME AAL, JKS adjustable trackbar, QDs, LCAs UCAs, A.C.O.S., DPG Offroad adjustable bumpstop plate, Daystar poly bumpstops.
Steering: Currie HD steering, C-ROK steering box reinforcement, OME stabilizer.
Armor/Recovery: T&T Custom belly skid, Mopar gas tank skid, JKS LCA mini skids, Rock Lizard Super Skink Sliders, Mopar 2" receiver, ARB Bull Bar/Ramsey REP 8.5 winch.
Drive train: D30 front axle w/Superior Chromo D30 axles & outter seals, D/S 4.56 R&P, ARB locker, Ruff Stuff cover. Ford 8.8 rear axle w/Superior Super 88 kit, Ford Motor Sports 4.56 R&P, ARB locker, SOLID cover, Russell stainless lines. Front and rear Tom Woods HD drive shafts, 242 x-fer case w/Tom Woods SYE.
Tires/Wheels: 33x10.5x15 BFG Mud Terrains on Alcoas.
Misc: Garvin Wilderness rack, Safari Snorkel, Redline Tuning hood lifts.
Awaiting installation: Autometer A pillar gauge pod, oil, water, & tranny temp guages, PIAA driving lights, Goferit tie-rod flip bushing, '95 Brake booster and M/C, M.O.R.E. Motor mounts, TnT Custom 1.5" Shackle.
Stroker Project: HO Block, '99 intake manifold, bored TB, 1" TB spacer, Dynomax Blackjack Header, Permacool electric fan.
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Unread 01-18-2011, 06:13 PM   #5
440_Magnum
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Rebuilding will be more expensive once you add the price of machine work, the core engine, and the parts to build it. But you will get a better product, IMO. Commerical remans like Jasper and whatever NAPA sells are OK and generally fine for extending the life of an old beat-up car, but they're pretty basic run-em-through fast builds, not precision work.
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Unread 01-18-2011, 06:16 PM   #6
andrewmacc
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Stroke it stroke it stroke it stroke it!
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Unread 01-18-2011, 06:31 PM   #7
87kee
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if it were me i would rebuild it myself with quality parts. that way you know what your getting.
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Unread 01-18-2011, 06:33 PM   #8
BriansCJ
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Throw a JY engine in your Jeep for now and rebuild your current engine to a 4.7 Stroker. Or vice-versa
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Unread 01-20-2011, 01:46 PM   #9
BassMasterCHS
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Cornbrizzle- Is this the kit that I would talk to him about?
http://www.titanengines.com/index.ph...gur5inhsfpvq67

Tjwalker- I've been looking around, but have yet to call a machine shop. Been busy.

mecompco- Do you have a link to his site? Thanks in advance!

440_Mangnum- That's why I'm considering rebuilding a JY one. I'm planning on keeping this Jeep for quite a while.

AndrewMacc- Give me the money,money,money, and I will lol.

87kee- Exactly.

BriansCJ- I'm probably going to buy a jy engine, have it machined, order the kit, and build it. As long as it gets machined, it should be as good as if I machined my block, right?
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Unread 01-20-2011, 03:27 PM   #10
GrnJeep
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Build a budget stroker for that ammount of money.
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Unread 01-20-2011, 04:41 PM   #11
mecompco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassMasterCHS View Post
mecompco- Do you have a link to his site? Thanks in advance!
Sorry about the link--don't know why it didn't post.

http://www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/books.html

This book is well worth the price, even if you're not going to do the work yourself, it's nice to know how it should be done.

Michael
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'94 Cherokee Country
Engine: 4.0 HO, Sealed canister filter, 3 core CSF steel radiator, CatCo cat, Dynomax Turbo Flow muffler.
Electronics: Remote start/locks, Pioneer DEH-P7800MP w/XM, Polk Audio speakers, Garmin Nuvi 660 GPS, Cobra 148 GTL P&T w/Wilson 1000.
Suspension: Old Man Emu 3" lift+OME AAL, JKS adjustable trackbar, QDs, LCAs UCAs, A.C.O.S., DPG Offroad adjustable bumpstop plate, Daystar poly bumpstops.
Steering: Currie HD steering, C-ROK steering box reinforcement, OME stabilizer.
Armor/Recovery: T&T Custom belly skid, Mopar gas tank skid, JKS LCA mini skids, Rock Lizard Super Skink Sliders, Mopar 2" receiver, ARB Bull Bar/Ramsey REP 8.5 winch.
Drive train: D30 front axle w/Superior Chromo D30 axles & outter seals, D/S 4.56 R&P, ARB locker, Ruff Stuff cover. Ford 8.8 rear axle w/Superior Super 88 kit, Ford Motor Sports 4.56 R&P, ARB locker, SOLID cover, Russell stainless lines. Front and rear Tom Woods HD drive shafts, 242 x-fer case w/Tom Woods SYE.
Tires/Wheels: 33x10.5x15 BFG Mud Terrains on Alcoas.
Misc: Garvin Wilderness rack, Safari Snorkel, Redline Tuning hood lifts.
Awaiting installation: Autometer A pillar gauge pod, oil, water, & tranny temp guages, PIAA driving lights, Goferit tie-rod flip bushing, '95 Brake booster and M/C, M.O.R.E. Motor mounts, TnT Custom 1.5" Shackle.
Stroker Project: HO Block, '99 intake manifold, bored TB, 1" TB spacer, Dynomax Blackjack Header, Permacool electric fan.
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Unread 01-20-2011, 08:16 PM   #12
cornbrizzle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassMasterCHS View Post
Yea , he will put a kit together for a standard rebuild , or .030 over or what ever you want, doesn't have to be a stroker, He has a nice machine shop does a lot of local shops machine work . About a hour or so from Tampa to Ocala. ? You could buy a JY motor strip it down take the block and head to him to machine and magnaflux and pick up the rebuild kit ? And just build it at your leasure , Thats what I am thinking about doing .




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Unread 01-21-2011, 04:25 AM   #13
mecompco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cornbrizzle View Post
Yea , he will put a kit together for a standard rebuild , or .030 over or what ever you want, doesn't have to be a stroker, He has a nice machine shop does a lot of local shops machine work . About a hour or so from Tampa to Ocala. ? You could buy a JY motor strip it down take the block and head to him to machine and magnaflux and pick up the rebuild kit ? And just build it at your leasure , Thats what I am thinking about doing .

Brizzle
I would do a little research before buying a Titan, just in the name of due diligence. I'm not saying don't do it, but it never hurts to do some checking before spending that kind of money.

Michael
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'94 Cherokee Country
Engine: 4.0 HO, Sealed canister filter, 3 core CSF steel radiator, CatCo cat, Dynomax Turbo Flow muffler.
Electronics: Remote start/locks, Pioneer DEH-P7800MP w/XM, Polk Audio speakers, Garmin Nuvi 660 GPS, Cobra 148 GTL P&T w/Wilson 1000.
Suspension: Old Man Emu 3" lift+OME AAL, JKS adjustable trackbar, QDs, LCAs UCAs, A.C.O.S., DPG Offroad adjustable bumpstop plate, Daystar poly bumpstops.
Steering: Currie HD steering, C-ROK steering box reinforcement, OME stabilizer.
Armor/Recovery: T&T Custom belly skid, Mopar gas tank skid, JKS LCA mini skids, Rock Lizard Super Skink Sliders, Mopar 2" receiver, ARB Bull Bar/Ramsey REP 8.5 winch.
Drive train: D30 front axle w/Superior Chromo D30 axles & outter seals, D/S 4.56 R&P, ARB locker, Ruff Stuff cover. Ford 8.8 rear axle w/Superior Super 88 kit, Ford Motor Sports 4.56 R&P, ARB locker, SOLID cover, Russell stainless lines. Front and rear Tom Woods HD drive shafts, 242 x-fer case w/Tom Woods SYE.
Tires/Wheels: 33x10.5x15 BFG Mud Terrains on Alcoas.
Misc: Garvin Wilderness rack, Safari Snorkel, Redline Tuning hood lifts.
Awaiting installation: Autometer A pillar gauge pod, oil, water, & tranny temp guages, PIAA driving lights, Goferit tie-rod flip bushing, '95 Brake booster and M/C, M.O.R.E. Motor mounts, TnT Custom 1.5" Shackle.
Stroker Project: HO Block, '99 intake manifold, bored TB, 1" TB spacer, Dynomax Blackjack Header, Permacool electric fan.
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Unread 01-21-2011, 10:47 AM   #14
cornbrizzle
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450.00 for a rebuild kit ? Thats not bad. Not talking about buying a stroker.




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Unread 01-21-2011, 11:18 AM   #15
GregB_00XJ
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I have been thinking about this as well. Mine runs like a champ, but is getting up there in miles. I love this heep and plan on keeping mine too.

Every time I see a 4.0L up for sale I think about jumping on it, but the late model ones here are silly expensive for a decent rebuild candidate.

If it were me... don't get a Napa reman, they are generally a pretty quick-cheap-and-nasty rebuild with M.O.R. quality parts. You are better off to get it done locally so you can control the parts quality and brands etc.

Get a used engine from a reputable JY, some will warranty their stuff for 30 days or so. This way when you do the tear down and get it magnafluxed etc if it is toast, they will give you a replacement. I know many here do that (60-90 days).

I am lucky to have a mechanic that will likely do this all at home for me and on the cheap...plus I get all my bits at his cost! So want to do this...but I think the Expo trailer is coming first!!
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