Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner

Rear Shackle

2K views 31 replies 8 participants last post by  Plink 
#1 ·
OK I'm not a complete idot but...could you guys give me some pointers about removing the rear shackles? I've started with the WD. THanks
 
#2 ·
I already posted this on the other thread, but no biggy, here goes. I used a rachet with a 2.5' piece of pipe to use for leverage. I don't like using air tools on the initial loosening. Once loose, I hit them with the power tools.

The top shakle bolt is threaded in the body. You shouldn't have to remove the bumper.

I think I've already mentioned this, but it's late and I'm just amaking sure....... I used a scissor jack (like the factory jeep jack)between the leafspring and the bottom of the body to push the leaf eyelet down far enough to put the bolt through.

I used the same scissor jack to push the front axle far enough down to help putting on the spacer. Put the base on the front axle and the top of the jack on the back near the engine compartment. This helped by giving me an extra couple of inches to slide in the spacer and spring with macpherson strut compressor on it. I did not remove the upper control arm, it's a PITA to get back on.













 
#3 ·
87YJ said:
OK I'm not a complete idot but...
You're not helping your case by spelling idiot wrong :D :D ;)

87YJ said:
could you guys give me some pointers about removing the rear shackles? I've started with the WD. THanks
start over with smething other than WD40. it's a Water Displacer, not a penetrating oil. get some penetrating oil (such as PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, SiliKroil, Break-Away) and spray the nuts on a regular basis for a few days. If you can, spray the side when the shackle bolt threads into the body, this is where you could damage the treads and be sort of SOL.
 
#4 ·
The WD worked great. I let the bolts soak overnight and I tried to move them today and with a little leverage they loosed up! So I hope tonight or tomorrow I'll get the lift done. I've always used WD-40 for rusty bolts. Works all the time.
 
#6 ·
I can understand that( I actually lived in a couple of ststes that had COLD winters, salt iced roads) , but I live in Texas and rust is a problem, but not a very big one. Hell they sell WWD40 everywhere, Grocery Stores, gas stations, convience stores, WD40 OWNS this state.

WD40, it's not just a lubricant, it's a way of life! lol.













 
#7 ·
I lived in Wichita Falls for around 5 years. I miss the BBQ!!! And yes they do sell WD-40 all over the place!
 
#8 ·
BBQ, just try to find GOOD mexican food anywhere else but Texas and New Mexico!! By the way, if Wichita Falls was your only taste of Texas, then I sincerely appologize. Just not much there except the military base.

Have you got the shakle in yet? I forgot to mention, install it first, then grease it before you put the leaf spring on it. Makes it a lot easier.













 
#10 ·
Rear shackles are on took less then an hour. Doing a little read'n then will go out to tackle one of the coil spacers.
 
#11 ·
I got screwed by the coil spring.......it really sucked...I got the coil off but could not get it back on with the coil spacer on. CRAP! Going to get a spring compressor tomorrow.
 
#12 ·
I preferr to use the MacPherson Strut compressors due to the bump stop and what not. Auto Zone rents them out.

Just be sure to tighten and loosen them at the same rate. A couple turns on each side as you go. Otherwise you end up with one side binding into the coil and you can't get a socket on it.













 
#14 ·
What I was planning on doing was to remove the wheel put the spring compressor on then lower the axle. Has anyone tried that? Using the weight of the Jeep to keep the spring compressed. I think that it would be a whole lot easier to do it that way.
 
#16 ·
So putting the spring compressor on before letting the axle down is a good thing?? It would be alot easier...
 
#17 ·
Yeah, it would be OK to do that, I did. My spring compressors have such fine threads that it took about 12 hours of turning off the wrench time. lol. OK so maybe I exaggerated.

Also that bumpstop tube making it a hassle to get the spring in and out.......a sawsall took care of that little problem in about 15 seconds. :D I run 31's with a 3 inch lift and havent once flexed or the truck bounced far enough to have the tires rub the fenders and I've put it thru some pretty rough terrain.

Hope that gives you a little more confidence?
 
#18 ·
putting compressors on an already compressed spring

This can be dangerous. The spring compressors that Autozone rents aren't that long. I was trying to compress some springs more so I did it the way you describe - put the compressor on the springs that are under the weight of the vehicle. I threaded the compressor nuts out as far as I could to get the most coil as I could grab with it. That part worked fine. You'll get the coils out and start unscrewing the spring compressors. You'll then realize that you have them almost all the way unscrewed but the springs are still compressed (from what was the vehicle weight). That is when you realize you are holding a deadly projectile, loaded and cocked!
At that point you must be extremely careful as you take that nut off the last thread. Point it in a safe direction and it might be wise to have someone hold the safe end of the spring while you turn the nut (or have them turn it :) ) When that nut pops off, that spring will unload like a jack-in-the box with 1000 x the force so you better be ready for it.

Since you are just adding spacers, I don't think you need to do it this way. Instead, drop the axle first, pull the coils and then put the spring compressors on to get them back in. Thats what I would do anyways.
 
#19 ·
Man, I am sorry. I should have mentioned that I did everything with the axle dropped. The strut compessors are the easiest to use, but struts are shorter than springs. That's why they are usually close to 6" shorter. They only help you get them in, they won't fully compress the spring. I will explain in more detail next time.













 
#20 ·
No need for you to apologize! BeJay1981 was the one who said "it would be OK to do that". I thought I better give a warning of what could happen. It can be done, but its not the wisest or safest way to do it.
 
#21 ·
Don't worry guys!! Got all in this afternoon. I used a couple of cargo straps (rachet straps). They worked great!!! I rented a spring compressor from Auto Zone that didn't work so I'm going back to get my $50.00 Thanks for all the help. I'll take some pics and post'em for ya.
 
#23 ·
Yep...they are called "Air Cargo Straps" They hold cargo down to pallets inside of an airplane. They are rated for 2000lbs. I put one on each side, stood it straight up, put my knee on top and began to rachet it down. They worked beautifully!! Remember I put the stock springs back in so all I had to do was compress the springs enough to get them on with the new 1.75" spacer.
 
#25 ·
Cargo straps, okay McGyver!!! That sounds like something I would do once desperation set in.

Glad it worked for ya, but there's no way in hell I would do that. I've had coil springs get away form me even with compssors on them, and the results ain't pretty.

Looks GOOd, it does look diffrent. I'll bet once you have the 30" on it you'll realize how much of a diffrence it makes. I would hazard a conservative guess and say that the 30's will give you an extra 1/2 lift. It'll feel a hell of a lot tougher.













 
#26 ·
I was pretty desperate. I'm glad that they did work. As far as the 30's go....I can't wait to get'em on. It should look pretty cool!
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top