Quick 0331 head advice? - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 11 Old 04-18-2017, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
Jetski29
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Quick 0331 head advice?

Hey guys, I've done lots of reading and just want to make sure I'm understanding everything right. I currently have a early 0331 head on my 4.0L. My head gasket is seeping oil out the passenger side so the head is coming off this weekend regardless. Now I'm definitely not putting my head back on, but I have a 0331 TUPY head that I pulled off a motor from a Wrangler about a year ago which I understand to be a better head. My dilemma at the moment is should I put the TUPY head on or should I shell out the money and go for a Clearwater head. Plus side is its not a hard job to do but nevertheless I'd rather only do it once and be done.

Jason

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post #2 of 11 Old 04-19-2017, 03:23 AM
vabeachmike
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If it was me I would have the TUPY head checked out and use it. I'm in the same spot as you I have a 2000XJ and if I could find a head locally I'd buy it and use it if I ever needed it.


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post #3 of 11 Old 04-19-2017, 04:55 AM
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If you have a TUPY head on hand I would use that one. FWIW I replaced mine when it cracked with a new head from Odessa (the ebay store for Clearwater Cylinder Heads) and I have no complaints.

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perfect depends on how far away you are when you look at it:D
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Originally Posted by Millermagic View Post
It's a 4.0 ... as long as there's something in the crank case that isn't coolant I'm sure it will still run forever.
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post #4 of 11 Old 04-19-2017, 06:01 AM
RedJeepster1
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If you have the head off anyway and have a TUPY head on hand, I would definitely swap it out. Wouldn't hurt to have a shop look it over before you put it on but the TUPY head was the revised version of the 0331 and the head cracking issue was resolved in that casting. You should have nothing to worry about.

BTW, if you werent swapping doing a head gasket I would say don't bother with the swap. Unless you are showing signs of a crack there isn't really anything to worry about. I have had a TUPY head on standby in my shed for quite some time but have no reason to use it. My Jeep has 355k miles on it and has never had a sign of a cracked head.

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post #5 of 11 Old 04-19-2017, 06:36 AM
tjwalker
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Have a machine shop go through that TUPY head (inexpensive and money well spent) and put that one on.

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Past Jeeps: 49 Willys, 81 Scrambler, 88 Comanche
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post #6 of 11 Old 04-19-2017, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by RedJeepster1 View Post
My Jeep has 355k miles on it and has never had a sign of a cracked head.
That must be a record.
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post #7 of 11 Old 04-19-2017, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
Jetski29
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Thanks for the feedback guys. I hadn't planned on doing this yet but there is the oil seeping from passenger side, enough that it shows on the block not long after a bath. On top of that my valve cover gasket is leaking in the rear. The head doesn't show any signs of cracking but I have had heatsoak issues which I need to try to solve as well.

Someone had told me to check the torque on the head bolts as far as the head gasket goes but don't feel too confident with that unless someone has had experience.

As far as the TUPY head, what should I make sure they check? I've swapped heads but never had much experience with machine shops. A friend said to have it machined if necessary, have it magnafluxed and to have the valves checked?

Thanks for the helpful feedback again, always helps having other input.
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post #8 of 11 Old 04-19-2017, 04:46 PM
tjwalker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetski29 View Post
I've swapped heads but never had much experience with machine shops. A friend said to have it machined if necessary, have it magnafluxed and to have the valves checked?
All of the above. You want to do this once. Any good machine shop will know what to do. It really is not that expensive to have this done and it will give you confidence going into the swap knowing that you are putting on a GOOD cylinder head.

Good luck and keep us updated!

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post #9 of 11 Old 04-19-2017, 07:15 PM
RedJeepster1
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the machine shop will be able to check for flatness of the head, see if the valve seats need any attention, and look for any signs of wear and tear on the head that might need to be addressed. If you bring it to them and ask if they can inspect it they should be able to help you out. Just say you have a used head and you want to have it looked at before you throw it on your engine. If it's no good, they should be able to tell you and then you can look into your other options like clearwater.

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post #10 of 11 Old 04-19-2017, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Jetski29 View Post
My head gasket is seeping oil out the passenger side so the head is coming off this weekend regardless.

Jason
You may already know this so disregard if you do - just trying to save you some work if I can. I also thought I had oil seepage from the head gasket on the passenger side but when I pulled the head (my first time tearing in to a 4.0) I quickly realized that there are no oil passages that run up the outer wall of your crank case/head on that side of the engine and since the crank case is not pressurized, it is very unlikely that oil would migrate out of the block in that location. The pistons (and all the pressure) reside on the driver side of the block and the pushrod openings/valleys are the only things on the passenger side. There are plenty of places internally for that oil to seep into and like all fluids, they will take the path of least resistance. Not saying it's impossible that you have oil seepage on the passenger side, just unlikely. I think it's much more likely that the oil is leaking from the valve cover somewhere and once it finds the head/block seam it follows it around to the passenger side. Good luck.
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post #11 of 11 Old 04-19-2017, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jhickman1 View Post
You may already know this so disregard if you do - just trying to save you some work if I can. I also thought I had oil seepage from the head gasket on the passenger side but when I pulled the head (my first time tearing in to a 4.0) I quickly realized that there are no oil passages that run up the outer wall of your crank case/head on that side of the engine and since the crank case is not pressurized, it is very unlikely that oil would migrate out of the block in that location. The pistons (and all the pressure) reside on the driver side of the block and the pushrod openings/valleys are the only things on the passenger side. There are plenty of places internally for that oil to seep into and like all fluids, they will take the path of least resistance. Not saying it's impossible that you have oil seepage on the passenger side, just unlikely. I think it's much more likely that the oil is leaking from the valve cover somewhere and once it finds the head/block seam it follows it around to the passenger side. Good luck.
You know you actually made me think about this. I hadn't noticed the valve cover leak until recently but know of the leak along the head/block seem for a while but it always starts from the back and moves forward along that ridge. I only have the valve cover off at the moment, I think I may put a new valve cover gasket on and wash it down again and take it from there before I go full blown and do more work than I currently need. If thats the case I'll still keep the other head as a backup but will just keep an eye one my current and focus on the heatsoak issue for now.

Fingers crossed and thanks for the input!!!
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