[Do It xj]

on my 99' i really want to run 37's but have a limited budget.
i plan on running the RE 5.5 short arm suspension with spacers and longer shackles+ ube's. im not into rock crawling just trails and mud. it will be a dd.
how will the D30 hold up, or should i look for a rubicon D44 for the front, i want to try and keep the stock front axle, with some shafts and truss. in the rear im going for a ford 8.8 with the super 8.8 kit. i want to try and run 4.88's any suggestions? keep in mind its a 4.0 auto, i know 4.88 wont be perfect, but it should be better than the 3.07's and 33's i have now. the link to the build is in my sig

[XJLI]

37s + D30 = explosion.

[Matt Gertsch]

Rubi D44s aren't much better than XJ D30s. You might want to look for a real D44.

[Do It xj]

but im not looking for full width or the headach that comes with custom axles

[XJLI]

then you shouldn't be running 37s

[mecompco]

Originally Posted by Do It xj

but im not looking for full width or the headach that comes with custom axles

Rubi axles use a 44 R&P only, the tubes are exactly the same small dia. as the 30.

[Do It xj]

Originally Posted by mecompco

Rubi axles use a 44 R&P only, the tubes are exactly the same small dia. as the 30.

well thats no good then

[Jason, aka: Jeepin.com]

Originally Posted by Matt Gertsch

Rubi D44s aren't much better than XJ D30s. You might want to look for a real D44.

They're not a whole lot better either since the shafts are marginally stronger, if any (where it counts, at the yokes) and they run the same u-joints as late model D30s.

If you're just running trails and mud, a built 30 should be OK as long as you don't get crazy with the skinny pedal. Though if that's all you're going to be running, I'd probably stick to 35s, especially since you said it's still going to be a DD.

[Do It xj]

i beleive jason:aka jeepin.com runs 36 irocks on his rig with a dana 30, 37's shouldn't be too much harder copared to the 36's
edit: i thought he might chime in

[Do It xj]

Originally Posted by Jason, aka: Jeepin.com

They're not a whole lot better either since the shafts are marginally stronger, if any (where it counts, at the yokes) and they run the same u-joints as late model D30s.

If you're just running trails and mud, a built 30 should be OK as long as you don't get crazy with the skinny pedal. Though if that's all you're going to be running, I'd probably stick to 35s, especially since you said it's still going to be a DD.

i'd probly only run the jeep in the summer, and keep my 94 for the winter, what wheeling i do i like the ground clearence of the 37's

[ChewyXJ]

Some chomo shafts with 760 joints would give you a little more peace of mind. I got mine from Alloy USA(along with gears), but I still don't want anything bigger than 35's on my d30.

You may get lucky with 37's but I wouldn't bet on it. A broken axle is not the end of the world, but it sure can be a hassle. All my axle shaft/joint breaks have happened in terrain where working on it is a pain in the butt. They never seem to break on a nice flat firm part of the trail.

On a side note, your 5.5" lift will clear 37's with proper bumpstopping. Your not going to like those short arms with 7"+ of lift.

Good luck

PS-if you decide to go with Alloy USA shafts order them ASAP. Took me 3 months get all 4 of mine due to back order.

[That1guy]

Well a 5.5 lift with spacers and short arms is going to ride so bad. Its going to shake you to death. Going with 37"s you should get the full widths because you center of gravity is going to be high.

[Do It xj]

the kit does come with drop brackets, and i can get a pretty good deal on it

[That1guy]

Well get the braces for it so they dont rip off. I guess you're talking about the drop brackets like Jason has?

[Jason, aka: Jeepin.com]

Yes. The RE 5.5" kit comes with the braces standard anyway, so he should be good to go there.