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Old 04-28-2007, 10:49 PM   #1
cartopics
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Question for the technically inclined...

I have a 2000 Cherokee with the 6cyl engine - we had this car since new and never gave us any problems for the past 103k miles. Finally, our first problem started at the worst time - going to a wedding approximately 180 miles from home...The car shut off once on the way to the location - it just cut off, no hesitation - just turned off while driving. I was able to restart it instantly. No check engine lights are on. On the way back, we stopped for some food - and that was it! I tried to start it up...It would turn the engine with no problem - but it wont start(almost as if we were out of gas)! I checked the basics: fuel at the rail, pressure from the pump etc - everything is O.K. I let it cool off completely - and yes: It started up fine...As soon as it warmed up to normal operating temp - it shut off again. No check engine light is on. The crappy part is that its stuck in a small town 160 miles from home! From some past experiences - I am thinking that it could be a module? Ignition module? Any input from people with similar experiences are greatly appreciated!

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Old 04-28-2007, 11:00 PM   #2
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Welcome to the Forum. Im sorry that I cant help past that.
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Old 04-28-2007, 11:04 PM   #3
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Thank you for the welcome! Thank you guys for reading!
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Old 04-28-2007, 11:08 PM   #4
boman40
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My 93 grand cherokee did that to me once. In the middle of no where, highway 10 in eastern Colorado. Turn out it was the fuel pump. Had to have the fuel pump shipped in by bus. I was the first day of our vacation. The fuel pump would quit after it warmed up. We could only drive ten miles and quit. wait twenty minutes and another
ten miles. Wasted two days of my vacation. It sucks. To check, put a fuel gauge on it and watch it after it starts until it shuts off. Pressure should remain constant, if it drops off, change fuel pump. It is in the fuel tank and of course you just filled the tank.
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Old 04-28-2007, 11:21 PM   #5
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I would lean towards the CPS.
Are you able to check for spark and fuel pressure?

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Old 04-28-2007, 11:26 PM   #6
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That was my initial thought also - I had no gauges with me, so I checked fuel pressure at the rail visually and spark I did not check. Very difficult to do in a tuxedo on the side of a highway in the middle of nowhere...I was hoping that I might just get a used CPS put it on an go my way - What do you think?
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Old 04-28-2007, 11:39 PM   #7
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Does the Cherokee have something like an ignition module? Usually those cut out also when they warm up?
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Old 04-28-2007, 11:43 PM   #8
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It sure sounds like the CPS. Mine was doing the same thing a few years ago.
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Old 04-28-2007, 11:45 PM   #9
curtjames37
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x3 on the CPS.

Check for spark first though. The CPS is a pain in the *** to replace and you wouldn't want to do it for nothing.
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Old 04-28-2007, 11:59 PM   #10
cartopics
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would the CPS throw any codes?
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Old 04-29-2007, 12:14 AM   #11
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Nope, does not.

My XJ was the same when the CPS went bad. Sounds a lot like it, but could also be something else. Like already stated, check for spark first. IIRC, 2000-2001 XJs have an ignition module - on my previous car when it went bad it behaved just like that.
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/hybrid-cage-build-exo-cage-internal-973910/
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Old 04-29-2007, 12:17 AM   #12
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Nope, no check engine light.

Those should help you some. The coil testing procedure listed in the last link likely won't apply to your 2000 because it has individual "coil packs."
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Old 04-29-2007, 01:45 AM   #13
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The heads in the 2000s and 01s are prone to cracking. Sounds like a cracked head to me. Look for oil in your coolant and coolant in your oil. Also, do a compression and leakdown test and see if all 6 cylinders are building and holding pressure.
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Old 04-29-2007, 02:05 AM   #14
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the easy way to change the cps on the road is to drop front driveshaft, then remove shift linkage from transmission. then it is easy enough to reach. i done mine in a parking lot in about 30 minutes.
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Old 04-29-2007, 02:26 AM   #15
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It might help, but you don't need to remove anything - what you need is 3/8" drive ratchet, two extensions and a wobbly bit in between them. I did mine on the parking lot at work, didn't take much longer than 30 minutes either. One thing that helps is if you've got a friend with a flashlight shwing some light from above and telling you where to put the socket.

If you ask me, removing front DS and shift linkage is just extra work that doesn't even help that much.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Gertsch
The heads in the 2000s and 01s are prone to cracking. Sounds like a cracked head to me. Look for oil in your coolant and coolant in your oil. Also, do a compression and leakdown test and see if all 6 cylinders are building and holding pressure.
That's a possibility as well - I just don't really know that well how the engine usually behaves with a cracked head. But why would a cracked head shut off the engine only when warm? As much as I can think of it, with a cracked head there's nothing that would allow the engine to run cold if it's not running hot Not saying you're wrong, just wondering..
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1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX, 100k miles, 1.75" BB, 32 x 11.50 BFG MT KM2s, custom- fabbed bumpers etc..

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/daily-driver-5-9-build-thread-bumpers-tube-rockers-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear, etc...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/hybrid-cage-build-exo-cage-internal-973910/
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