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Unread 01-09-2012, 01:44 PM   #1
Kleber
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1998 XJ Cherokee 
 
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Pulls to the right and wobbling at high speed

I still haven't found the reason for my issue with my '98 cherokee. The front suspension is completely stock. Last year around this same time I did have an alignment, but that never fixed the issue. Now the other issue with the steering is if I get to about 70 mph on the highway my steering wheel begins to shake back and forth and the vibes cause the whole car to shake. Before the alignment these vibrations would happen at 60 mph. I'm going to get my 2 front tires switched to different rims this week and get them balanced. And I'm going to ask them to look at the alignment but I have a feeling they'll just tell me I need one to shut me up.

So what I'm really asking is what should I look for steering stabilizer, tie rod ends? Is this a common thing that the wheel would shake on the highway?

Thanks,
Cole

*Edit*
It pulls to the right all the time, accelerating, braking, normal driving.

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Unread 01-09-2012, 02:11 PM   #2
CJ7-Tim
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Pulling and vibrating are not normal and indicate worn or damaged suspension parts, brake problems, or tire problems. If you can't diagnose and repair the problem yourself, find a trustworthy repair shop that knows and understand 4x4's.
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Unread 01-09-2012, 04:17 PM   #3
tjwalker
It's the crank sensor!
 
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If you are experiencing a VIOLENT wobbling, you are experiencing "death wobble'. It is not unusual with the XJ. It sounds like you
are a new member in the D.W club. Admission is free!

I just resolved my death wobble with a new track bar. The track bar is a common cause, as is the control arms and bushings, but there
are a number of things that can cause/contribute. Here is more.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

My understanding of “death wobble” is this. Somewhere in the vehicle, one or more components is worn beyond tolerances, and when oscillation initiates from a suspension “traumatic” event (hitting a bump or a pothole) or also when a vibration reaches a certain point and harmonic at a certain speed, it causes the other components to react. This is called the “multiplier effect”, where one component affects one or more other components as the event travels through the front end of the vehicle.

Death wobble is not uncommon with the XJ. It is even more common with a lifted XJ. Finding the worn component or components is not always easy. It can sometimes be downright difficult. Sometimes it’s obvious, other times everything appears to be okay when you perform an inspection on a hoist, but getting the vehicle up in the air and going over everything with a fine tough comb is always a good first step. It is very helpful if you know exactly how to perform a comprehensive inspection of every single front end part, looking for abnormal wear and or play in that hardware. If you do not know how to do this type of inspection, pay an experienced professional to do it. Be sure to ask them if they are familiar with “death wobble”, as not all technicians are versed in this…..

Check out the below link if you would like some extensive reading on “death wobble” causes and cures. From my research, Kevin (the author of this tutorial) is possibly the best in the business with tracking down root cause of death wobble. He does offer hardware for sale that can help resolve death wobble, but even if you don’t buy any parts from him, you can still get some excellent ideas on what to look at in resolving your death wobble.

http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/how-to-...-death-wobble/

Possible causes of death wobble are listed below. Isolating death wobble is a process of elimination and the root cause is not always obvious and it can often be caused by a combination of things! From my personal experience, I would first concentrate on the track bar and the control arms and associated bushings.
--------------------------------------------------------
-Front tires out of balance (try swapping fronts to rear; see if symptoms change)
-Tire pressure. Don’t laugh. It’s not a root cause but can exaggerate the problem. Experiment with lower tire pressure to see if it helps
-Improper lug nut torque on wheels
-Front alignment out of spec
-Loose track bar
-Worn track bar bushings
-Worn track bar (check for play!!)
-Bad control arms and associated bushings
-Worn/damaged steering stabilizer (not generally a cause in and by itself)
-Worn/damaged shocks
-Worn/damaged tie rod end
-Bad U Joint
-Bad ball joint
-Loose frame mount
-Steering box loose
-Bad front hub assembly
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Unread 01-09-2012, 06:36 PM   #4
volaredon
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alignment WILL NOT cause a vibration!!!!
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Unread 01-10-2012, 12:07 PM   #5
tjwalker
It's the crank sensor!
 
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Every single reputable source familiar with death wobble will tell you that alignment can absolutely contribute to death wobble. SEARCH if you want that verification.....
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Unread 01-12-2012, 06:29 PM   #6
GenPatTuck
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I disagree with alignment fixing DW. Mine was bad at 40mph but quit after that. I checked for all loose parts and bought a steering stabilizer and that didnt work. So a buddy told me what he did, he got new upper controls arms and bushings. So I replaced mine along with the ball joints. I still have the stock track bar mount and bar with a 4" lift and have not had an alignment done as this is required after you do a lift. I know it needs one but havent done it. Now for the end result... I got rid of my DW by replacing the items I mentioned above. I did all the work myself and it was particularly easy. Check out youtube for help! Good luck!
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Unread 01-12-2012, 06:56 PM   #7
tjwalker
It's the crank sensor!
 
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Every death wobble situation is unique. My contention is that alignment can "contribute" to the wobble. Not that it is the root cause in every case.

It can start the multiplier effect on the rest of the front end parts. It should NOT be ignored when investigating death wobble.
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Unread 01-13-2012, 11:38 AM   #8
buildin1XJ
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Pay attention to TJ and read the link he gave you the man knows his stuff, and alignment should not be ignored nor should any front end components
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Unread 01-13-2012, 01:43 PM   #9
Kleber
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Just thought I give an update, I went ahead and replaced my steering damper/stabilizer that did "fix" the steering wheel vibration (I know its just temporary) but then the whole jeep would vibrate. I did just get new wheels put on today and they were balanced again so I haven't tested it on the highway yet. But to the issue of pulling right, I had my mechanic look at it and he noticed the "caliper slides" look rusted and the caliper would have to be replaced (which is something they know I can do myself). Could anyone give me an idea of what would cause a brake rotor to have lines in it that go in a complete circle around the rotor? Is that a good sign that the slider is frozen?

Also thanks for all the info regarding the death wobble, I wasn't sure if it was applicable because everything was stock but I will have to give everything a deeper inspection next time I'm under the jeep.

Thanks everyone
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Unread 03-10-2012, 12:05 PM   #10
Kleber
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Today I had my 2 front tires off and noticed when I spin the rotor on the right hand side it takes a lot more power compared to the drivers side. Could this be something to look into regarding it pulling right?
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Unread 03-10-2012, 12:41 PM   #11
CJ7-Tim
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Did you replace the caliper and the rotor as the mechanic recommended ? You might as well replace both calipers and both rotors and install some new rubber brake lines also. A seized caliper will cause a pull and will make lines in your rotor.
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Unread 03-10-2012, 02:52 PM   #12
critmuncy99
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Alignment fixed my DW....
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Unread 03-10-2012, 04:33 PM   #13
Kleber
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I did replace both cailpers. $40 @ autozone and some speed bleeders. Went pretty well. The old ones had broken pieces in the "doughnut" thing. I didn't replace the brake lines I probably will but I'm not sure why the rotor would take so much force to spin.
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Unread 03-10-2012, 08:21 PM   #14
DerMeister
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kleber
I did replace both cailpers. $40 @ autozone and some speed bleeders. Went pretty well. The old ones had broken pieces in the "doughnut" thing. I didn't replace the brake lines I probably will but I'm not sure why the rotor would take so much force to spin.
$40 for both? I may have to do that.
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Unread 03-10-2012, 09:01 PM   #15
Kleber
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DerMeister View Post
$40 for both? I may have to do that.
Yeah they have a $20 core charge. But I would suggest painting them, they don't come with a finish which I didn't realize until today and now they have a weird brown shade to them.
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