[fla_cracker]

As the title describes, I find myself back into the off-road world again. I just can't seem to get the monkey off my back.

This threadis about my 95' XJ which I've had for all of about 3-4 months before I couldn't leave it alone any more. This will start a little slow but I will try to have lots of pics, which I now everyone loves.

So heres the first ones. The befores or beginings.

Nothing too fancy here.
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh314/fla_cracker_emt78/Jeep%20Build/P6210097.jpg

I6, AW4, NP242, D30/D35, about 178,000 but in good mechanical shape.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh314/fla_cracker_emt78/Jeep%20Build/P1180106.jpg


When I first picked her up there were some things I did right away that I'm not going to bore you with. I replaced the radiator, with one from radiator barn, water pump, thermastat, some of the hoses, and added an electric fan.

I also upgraded the steering linkage with a rusty's HD conversion, the OEM styff needed replaced anyways.

[99Greenmachine]

whoops!

more pics to come

[fla_cracker]

The first thing I decidedto do, while bored and awaiting my lift parts, wasa snorkle.

I did some searches on the forum and found a style that I liked, except it was dun on a TJ. It was the hummer/defender style that is mountedon the hood nearthe windshield. So here goes,



First I started by taking the windshield valance off to see wat I had to work with.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh314/fla_cracker_emt78/Jeep%20Build/P6210096.jpg

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh314/fla_cracker_emt78/Jeep%20Build/P6210098.jpg

It's kinda hard to see in the pics but that void that the wiper mechanicals are in goes the full length of the windshield. On the passenger side it opens more for the fresh air intake for the A/C.

this pic is jumping forward but you can see what I'm talking about.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh314/fla_cracker_emt78/Jeep%20Build/P6230120.jpg


Lots of room for some hose, 90's, and what ever else you may need.

My original thought was to turn this spaceinto the air box anduse a round air filter. After putting my head back on straight and studying it more I settled on an easier approach.

My plan is to duct the air from the valence down to the factory air box. I think this better for several reasons.

1. U still get to use OEM air filters
2. Ease of install
3. no need to re-enginear the engine bay

[fla_cracker]

Thanks theres more coming.

[fla_cracker]

Supplies:

1 4" PVC cap
1 2" sink pea trap
1 2" pvc connector
7' 2" craftsman shopvac hose
1 metal "for Sale" sign
10 self tapping metal screws
1 tube of RVT

dremel tool
hole saws
drill
saw-zall or pvc saw
misc. hand tools ie; screw drivers, hammer







First job wasto take the airbox out. Should be easy, just 2 1/2" bolts and 1 1/2" nut inside the box. Iwould suggest taking the lid, filter, and intake hose out of the engine bay so things don't get cluttered.

Next I took the PVC pea trap

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh314/fla_cracker_emt78/Jeep%20Build/P6230111.jpg


and cut it just below the coupling

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh314/fla_cracker_emt78/Jeep%20Build/P6230112.jpg

so you can remove the coupling nut from the trap

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh314/fla_cracker_emt78/Jeep%20Build/P6230113.jpg


This " threaded 90 and nut" will be what connectsto your air box.

Now I went and cut a hole in the air box for the 90 to fit into.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh314/fla_cracker_emt78/Jeep%20Build/P6230114.jpg

This hole is towards the front of the jeep on the engine side.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh314/fla_cracker_emt78/Jeep%20Build/P6230115.jpg

I used the Dremel to make this hole. In the pic above you can see some ribs on the inside of the box. You need to trim these down near your hole or the 90 won't seal properly.

This pic is a test fit.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh314/fla_cracker_emt78/Jeep%20Build/P6230116.jpg

I found a rubber hose coupler laying around that I cut to use as a gasket for the 90.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh314/fla_cracker_emt78/Jeep%20Build/P6230104.jpg

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh314/fla_cracker_emt78/Jeep%20Build/P6230117.jpg






Holy poop, its late. I will finish posting this tomorrow.

[paulmatyn]

Originally Posted by firefightnkrakr

The first thing I decidedto do, while bored and awaiting my lift parts, wasa snorkle.

I did some searches on the forum and found a style that I liked, except it was dun on a TJ. It was the hummer/defender style that is mountedon the hood nearthe windshield. So here goes,



First I started by taking the windshield valance off to see wat I had to work with.





It's kinda hard to see in the pics but that void that the wiper mechanicals are in goes the full length of the windshield. On the passenger side it opens more for the fresh air intake for the A/C.

this pic is jumping forward but you can see what I'm talking about.




Lots of room for some hose, 90's, and what ever else you may need.

My original thought was to turn this spaceinto the air box anduse a round air filter. After putting my head back on straight and studying it more I settled on an easier approach.

My plan is to duct the air from the valence down to the factory air box. I think this better for several reasons.

1. U still get to use OEM air filters
2. Ease of install
3. no need to re-enginear the engine bay

click free, and next time use the img tags instead of the url

[paulmatyn]

Originally Posted by firefightnkrakr

Supplies:

1 4" PVC cap
1 2" sink pea trap
1 2" pvc connector
7' 2" craftsman shopvac hose
1 metal "for Sale" sign
10 self tapping metal screws
1 tube of RVT

dremel tool
hole saws
drill
saw-zall or pvc saw
misc. hand tools ie; screw drivers, hammer







First job wasto take the airbox out. Should be easy, just 2 1/2" bolts and 1 1/2" nut inside the box. Iwould suggest taking the lid, filter, and intake hose out of the engine bay so things don't get cluttered.

Next I took the PVC pea trap




and cut it just below the coupling



so you can remove the coupling nut from the trap




This " threaded 90 and nut" will be what connectsto your air box.

Now I went and cut a hole in the air box for the 90 to fit into.



This hole is towards the front of the jeep on the engine side.



I used the Dremel to make this hole. In the pic above you can see some ribs on the inside of the box. You need to trim these down near your hole or the 90 won't seal properly.

This pic is a test fit.



I found a rubber hose coupler laying around that I cut to use as a gasket for the 90.










Holy poop, its late. I will finish posting this tomorrow.

click free

[keepishop]

Hmm... I like your routing idea. Never seen someone put the elbow there before.

[fla_cracker]

I'll try the IMG thing. Thanks for the help.


Next I went about using the "for sale" sign to make a cap for the original opening to the air box.





I just cut a small square out and folded the sides until it fit snug. Some RVT on the inside and self tapping screws to secure it.



This should seal up the air box enough for what wheeling I do.

[fla_cracker]

Now for the cap or top of the snorkle.

I started out with a 2" threaded female PVC coupling. This will be the a visible part of the snorkle so take your time and don't mar it up.

On the coupleing side, side without threads, I attached three small L brakets using the self tapping screws.



The L brakets are used to hold the top portion on. From the pakage the brakets are too long to fit and need to be shortened. I just used a pair of bolt cutters because thats what was handy.




Now add the 4" pvc end cap. My first attempt was with rubber cement.



I found that this was not a secure eniugh bond. So tried using the RVT. It seems to be OK. I'm sure a good tree branch and bird strike would knock it loose. When this happens I plan on using nuts and bolts to secure it, but for now this will do.






OK, now that the cap is made, it's time to find a mounting spot. This is what I found to be acceptable. It is on the passenger side on the far side out the valance. There are no wiper mechanicals there and nothing but un-used space.



Just remeber to check your clearances. wipers, hood

[conrasm]

Not to redirect your build thread, but I saw you install the Rusty's HD steering. How do you like it and is their any dead spot or tie rod roll? Haven't heard much input since he changed the design.

I have the rugged ridge and after shimming, I've come to accept a minimal dead spot. Just wondering how the Rusty's setup works, because it comes up periodically with the steering threads.

Just to clarify, is it this setup?

http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=RS-SC250-UV&Category_Code=ste

[fla_cracker]

conrasm,

The Rustys conversion is ok. There is a little dead spot but not much. Mine is the one you refferenced. The one thing I found that I really don't like is that on a stock install, the tie rod hits the trac bar lower mount bolt before full lock.

Because I am going to go above the knuckle soon, I opted to adjust the steering bumb stops. The little bolts towards the bottom of the knuckle.

The install was easy. I aligned it myself also. Wasn't too bad. I've driven it about 2,000 miles with no problems except for above mentioned.

I can get some pics if you like.

All in all. Its ok for now, just have to remember to leave more room when turning right.

[fla_cracker]

Thanks Paulmatyn,

Worked like a charm.

[fla_cracker]

Time to cut some sheet metal.


I started with the fire wall. no perticular reason just felt like starting there.
I also forgot to take a pic at that point so this one will have to do.




Just always double check what is behind the metal you are cutting. It will save you headache later.

Next is the valence in the spot you already chose.



Once your holes are cut and checked for fitment, the fun part is placement of th hose.

I decided to attatch the threaded coupling to the hose before placing it. Some RVT or screws make good fastners for the hose to coupling.



Continue the hole through the valance. The real fun is reaching your arm all the way into the space below the valence to route the hose.

I did after my first attempt find that the fresh air intake was slightly in the way.



The lip around the intake had to be flattened out so the hose could bend upwards. I did consider using another elbow, but never followed up on it.

After addressing the clearance issue I fed the hose to it's new home.



The threaded part should be the only part exposed from the hole.



I know in the picture it looks crooked. It is. I adrress this later.

[fla_cracker]

From here I decided that the hose probly needed some heat protection. After a minute of brainstorming and raiding my girlfriends kitchen, I came up with aluminum foil. It shoult reflect the heat enough to keep the hose in one piece.



I wrapped it long ways down the hose and used zip ties to secure it.



Might be a little Ghetto, but I'm usually the only one in the engine bay.

Now I routed the hose around to the elbow in the air box and used RVT to seal and connect it.

I seem to have forgot this pic too, so...... I brought the hose across the firewall to the driver side. Then down in between the brake booster and the intake manifold. From there I kept it close against the fender/airbox to the elbow.

With all that connected, it's time to attach the cap.



The first fit didn't look good to me. The cap was too tall and leaning to the passenger side.



Too adress this I took the cap apart and shortened the non-threaded side of the cap coupling. I then re-secured the L-brakets with one of them shorter than the others. This is to level the cap with the hood.

Once done with that I applied bedliner to the cap to give it that "I'm not PVC" look.





It still could use some fine tuning, but I think it turned out ok.



Yes, thats my big old "I've got no patience" thumb print.







I know the night time pics are hard to see. I will get some day light ones for you soon.

I've driven about 300 miles with it so far and have not had any problems. It appears MPG is the same. No funny whistling noises. It's not very noticable or obnoxious looking.

I do have yet to ford any water with it. When I do I will let you know how it does.

Any questions, comments, or constructive critisism are welcome.


In about a week it will be lift time. 3" with a over the knuckle conversion. I can't wait.

Thanks