[Trekman8]

I am in need of a Slip Yoke Elimination kit for my 98' Limited with a NP242 Transfer Case. I have been doing a lot of research and it looks like there is no real "HD" kit for the 242 from what I have gathered. Tom Woods and Currie Ent. seem to just "Hack and tap" your shaft precisely in their lathes. So i Figured i might as well just take the shaft to a local lathe and get it done there.

After I get this done, what else is needed? Just the Rubicon Express HnT kit and a DS? Or are there any other options? DriveShaft options? Should i get the Tom Wood's DS?

Any ideas, opinions, Questions, experiences, or pictures?
Thanks!

[the_weirdo]

Do a search in the FAQ section...tons of info and will answer all your questions.

Here's what you need to do it for less than $200:
a) RE HnT $100
b) Go to the junkyard and get a front driveshaft from any auto tranny XJ for $40. You can use any custom built driveshaft but it will cost you a LOT more than $40.
c) Spicer flange #211229x. Get it for $50 from alljeep.com

This is a decent setup that many people run and most have not had any trouble with it. This is what I run and I would do it again without reservation.

[afbond03]

the_weirdo thank you for that list. I seriously have been looking around to get an idea of all EXACTLY I would need for my SYE when I decide to go higher. Seriously you can search and search this forum but I never came across anything so specific for the 242, yes plenty about the 231.That said the go get "this" list and your good to go is good to see...so THANK YOU!

[xjh3]

The above works, but if you can get stuff machined, you could also go this route:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80289

http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSYEconversion.htm

I just did this for my 231 because I'm cheap. $100 for the yoke, part no. 3103-27CV from Powertrain Industries. $20 for the front shaft. ~$30 in cut-off wheels, drill bits, a tap, Loctite and hardware, mine was on in a few hours for no more than $150. That being said, the machine shop here at school does stuff for students for free, so I don't know what your case would be. I was very pleased with the results though.

[00BlackdOut]

I'm looking into using the existing slip yoke to do a "Poor Man's SYE" tomorrow. Any reason why the existing yoke wouldn't work for mild wheeling? Just bought an XJ front shaft for $30 on EPay, only because I don't have any time to search the junk yards. I'll rebuild my front shaft and use it on the rear until my "new" front shaft comes in. Just picked up new Federal Mogul HD joints & centering ball last night @ OReillys.

[xjh3]

Maybe I'm not understanding you correctly but the stock yoke will not accept the double cardan joint on the front driveshaft. You have to have a yoke specifically designed to accept a double cardain joint. Then you have to cut the yoke and output shaft down or the front driveshaft will be much too long.

[the_weirdo]

Originally Posted by xjh3

Maybe I'm not understanding you correctly but the stock yoke will not accept the double cardan joint on the front driveshaft. You have to have a yoke specifically designed to accept a double cardain joint. Then you have to cut the yoke and output shaft down or the front driveshaft will be much too long.

Yes.

[00BlackdOut]

Originally Posted by xjh3

Maybe I'm not understanding you correctly but the stock yoke will not accept the double cardan joint on the front driveshaft. You have to have a yoke specifically designed to accept a double cardain joint. Then you have to cut the yoke and output shaft down or the front driveshaft will be much too long.

You're absolutely right. The stock yoke will not accept the double cardan joint...that's why I'm using a u-joint between the two. I do plan on cutting down the output shaft & yoke. Like I said, I'm going to look into it tomorrow. It might not be possible to use it and keep some integrity, but I believe that it can be done. I get paid to think outside the box, and not out of the catalog.

[Trekman8]

So what from what i've read in the threads you posted, I can buy a "short shaft" (is that right?) and cut it down. Then get my output shaft cut, drilled and tapped at the machince shop, and all i would need is a driveshaft? BESIDES the Front DS in the rear, what else would you guys recommend for a DS? Lengths?
Thanks!

[00BlackdOut]

Originally Posted by Trekman8

So what from what i've read in the threads you posted, I can buy a "short shaft" (is that right?) and cut it down. Then get my output shaft cut, drilled and tapped at the machince shop, and all i would need is a driveshaft? BESIDES the Front DS in the rear, what else would you guys recommend for a DS? Lengths?
Thanks!

Supposedly there is no need to have the front stock XJ DS cut down(I believe you should use a post '91). I haven't tried mine yet, but from what I've read, these guys are doing them without modifications. As far as drilling and tapping...man, it's easy. If you're going to go to the trouble of pulling your output shaft, you might as well save another couple hundred bucks and buy a good SYE. Just find a tap chart, and it will point you to the drill bit needed for whatever tap/bolt you plan on using. Keep it fairly straight, and cut your threads. use LOTS of lubricant or you're sure to kill the bit and buy a good name brand bit. No HF cr@p here. Cutting oil, WD40, ArmorAll(yes, it works). This is not necessarily a "structural" joint. It's just a retainer to keep the output shaft from moving foward.

Like I said earlier, I'm going to look into doing an even less expensive fix this afternoon. I'll do a write-up on it.

[XJ2000]

Originally Posted by the_weirdo

Do a search in the FAQ section...tons of info and will answer all your questions.

Here's what you need to do it for less than $200:
a) RE HnT $100
b) Go to the junkyard and get a front driveshaft from any auto tranny XJ for $40. You can use any custom built driveshaft but it will cost you a LOT more than $40.
c) Spicer flange #211229x. Get it for $50 from alljeep.com

This is a decent setup that many people run and most have not had any trouble with it. This is what I run and I would do it again without reservation.

Definately a great list

[xjh3]

Originally Posted by 00BlackdOut

that's why I'm using a u-joint between the two.

What do you mean by this? Are you going to have 3 u-joints somehow on the transfercase end? I'm not not bashing, just trying to understand. I wanted to use the stock yoke as well, I just didn't think there was any way possible to do it.

[00BlackdOut]

Originally Posted by xjh3

I'm not not bashing, just trying to understand. I wanted to use the stock yoke as well, I just didn't think there was any way possible to do it.

No, no worries. I never took it as that.

I looked into it....there's no way to do it that I can figure out. Sucks.

[Sprngfldxj]

Originally Posted by the_weirdo

Here's what you need to do it for less than $200:
a) RE HnT $100
b) Go to the junkyard and get a front driveshaft from any auto tranny XJ for $40. You can use any custom built driveshaft but it will cost you a LOT more than $40.
c) Spicer flange #211229x. Get it for $50 from alljeep.com

I would have to say nice list as well!!
The Spicer unit is specifically used to attach the XJ FR DS to the RE H&T, correct? All the peices that come with the H&T have to be used in addition to the Spicer unit, correct?

[the_weirdo]

Originally Posted by Sprngfldxj

I would have to say nice list as well!!
The Spicer unit is specifically used to attach the XJ FR DS to the RE H&T, correct? All the peices that come with the H&T have to be used in addition to the Spicer unit, correct?

a) Yes, the spicer unit is specifically used to attach the XJ front DS to the RE HnT flange. The RE HnT cuts down the output shaft and bolts a flat flange to the cut down output shaft. The front DS cannot attach to the flange because it has a u-joint at the end that attaches to the output shaft. The spicer part attaches to the u-joint on the DS so that the DS also has a flat flange. Now you can bolt the flat flange from the spicer part to the flat flange from the HnT. If you order a new custom DS, you can have them put a flange end on the DS and you won't need the spicer part (but a custom driveshaft costs $$$; the spicer part and used front DS is much cheaper.)
b) Yes, all the pieces that come with the HnT must be used.

Edit: check out post #11 in this thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/driveshaft-need-pic-542188/?highlight=spicer
It shows the front DS, the spicer part (the shiny piece attached to the DS), and the RE HnT flange (the really shiny piece that is not bolted to the DS.)