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Unread 02-04-2012, 10:18 AM   #1
98GooseXJ14
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Overheats offroading

So my 98 is only overheating whenever I take it mudding and driving it around in 4wheel. I thought I messed it up bad last night because it got hot and was boiling out the overflow. shut it off immediately and let it sit and cool down for awhile. My friend seems to think that its my thermostat thats the issue and not letting it cool down. all the fans go on too. Anyone know what else it might be?

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Unread 02-04-2012, 10:27 AM   #2
CJ7-Tim
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Overheating can be caused by anything that decreases the cooling system’s ability to absorb, transport and dissipate heat, such as a low coolant level, loss of coolant (through internal or external leaks), poor heat conductivity inside the engine because of accumulated mineral deposits in the water jackets, a defective thermostat that doesn’t open, poor airflow through the radiator, a slipping fan clutch, an inoperative electric cooling fan, a collapsed lower radiator hose, an eroded or loose water pump impeller or even a defective radiator cap.

The cooling system is a group of related parts that depend on proper function from each of its component parts to keep the engine cool. Service the cooling system and replace any under-performing or suspected weak parts. Any component part of the cooling system that is not fully doing its job will stress the others and your cooling system will overheat. The most important maintenance item is to flush and refill the coolant periodically. Anti-freeze has a number of additives that are designed to prevent corrosion in the cooling system, but they have a limited life span. The corrosion causes scale that eventually builds up and begins to clog the thin flat tubes in the radiator and heater core, causing the engine to eventually overheat. Coolant should be replaced every 36,000 miles or every three years.



-Use a flushing/cleaning solution and then drain and fill the radiator with a fresh 50/50 coolant and water mix. With a neglected cooling system you may have to flush several times.
-Inspect the radiator for mud/bugs/grass clogging the outside and mineral deposits clogging the inside. Clean or replace as needed.
-Replace the thermostat with a STANT or Robertshaw 195* thermostat. Cheap thermostats are cheap for a reason.
-Replace the radiator cap if your Jeep has one. An old worn out cap will allow boil overs and/or allow the coolant flash over into to steam. You will see the coolant temps suddenly jump from 210* to the Red Zone and back to 210* if your radiator cap is weak.
-Inspect/test or replace the mechanical fan clutch. A worn fan clutch will allow temperature creep at stoplights, in heavy traffic, and on the 4x4 trails. A fan clutch that “looks” OK is not the same as working OK. Consider installing a Heavy Duty fan clutch such as the NAPA #272310.
-Inspect the electric cooling fan and the fan relay. Apply 12 volts and make sure the fan runs. Exchange the cooling fan relay with one of the others similar relays. Confirm that the e-fan starts when engine temps reach 215-218*. Repair or replace the fan or relay as needed.
-Inspect/test or replace the coolant temperature sensor that activates the e-fan.
-Replace the water pump. The pumping fins can deteriorate over time and the pump will not flow enough coolant to keep the temps under control.
-Inspect/replace the radiator hoses. Make sure the coiled wire is installed in the lower hose.

If you have covered all the points listed above and still have overheating issues, inspect the head for cracks and head gasket for leaks. Exhaust gasses entering the coolant can raise the temperature of the coolant or cause steam pockets in the coolant that will temporarily block the flow of coolant

Read more about cooling systems here –

www.offroaders.com/tech/engine-overheating.htm

www.familycar.com/classroom/coolingsystem.htm
water-pump-fins.jpg  
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Unread 02-04-2012, 10:27 AM   #3
austin6137
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Your clutch fan is probably shot. Does the electric fan turn on? If your playing in the mud you radiator might have gotten clogged with mud


Edit, Tim beat me to it
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Unread 02-04-2012, 12:38 PM   #4
motorsports3
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What is the point of that coiled wire on the bottom hose? Ive been curious about that for a while
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Unread 02-04-2012, 01:30 PM   #5
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where is this on a 2001?Inspect/test or replace the coolant temperature sensor that activates the e-fan.
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Unread 02-04-2012, 02:23 PM   #6
austin6137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motorsports3 View Post
What is the point of that coiled wire on the bottom hose? Ive been curious about that for a while
Keeps the hose from collapsing under suction
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Unread 02-04-2012, 02:55 PM   #7
CJ7-Tim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flhtquick View Post
....coolant temperature sensor that activates the e-fan.
.
cts-theromstat.jpg  
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Unread 02-04-2012, 03:27 PM   #8
flhtquick
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tim that's a clean motor. So if i jump those 2 wires the fan will start. And can i put in a lower temp sensor?
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Unread 02-04-2012, 03:44 PM   #9
CJ7-Tim
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If you unplug the CTS wires the fan will start and the check engine light may turn on.

e-fan turns on at about 215-218* as controlled by the engine computer (ECU).
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Unread 02-04-2012, 06:59 PM   #10
98GooseXJ14
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That is a lot of information tim thank you very much. Im going to start with the radiator cap and thermostat and next will be a full flush of the system and refill. I dont get it but it only does it offroading.. I can have it sit at idle in a parking lot for a half hour and it doesnt go past about 200-205.
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Unread 02-04-2012, 07:44 PM   #11
jmaxey27
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I had to do just about everything CJ7-Tim said. And, for the most part, my problem is fixed. The only weak-link in my system is the water pump. But my radiator had a small leak in it on TOP of a crappy radiator cap that let (I'm assuming ALL) my coolant bleed to the overflow tank. So I overheated and had to do a side-of-the-road job and fix it enough to limp it to my garage. But I would follow his advice. It's legit. And the "all components need to be in tip-top shape" phrase is correct. Because I did the cheapest-more expensive swap and I ended up changing everything but the water-pump (and the fan clutch... I still have to do that)

If you install a new radiator (hope you don't have to) make sure you get that stupid trani cooling line quick connect put on tight to the bottom of the right radiator tank. I didn't shove it on there far enough and ended up having to dismantle everything just to grab it with a pair of pliers and move it half a centimeter.
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Unread 02-04-2012, 10:48 PM   #12
joe108
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I just went through this running hot thing on my new 00 Cherokees maiden 4x4 trip.
There were other Cherokee owners with the group that have had the same issues. Mine did not "overheat" but began running hot and threw a misfire code after parking and heat soaking the engine. As yours, mine runs just fine when not offroading.
The veteran cherokee group suggested a complete cooling system overhaul as suggested since mine has over 108k miles, so I just collected all the parts(OEM $), hoses, thermostat,new water pump, and an all metal/copper 3row radiator. As soon as those parts are in, I'm going to do the electric fan over ride mod, but have yet to find a good step by step write up that won't trigger a check engine light.
The other guys didn't suffer from the heat as mine did so I'm betting that the system overhaul will help. I'll post results if I get a chance to do the overhaul.
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Unread 02-05-2012, 08:33 AM   #13
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Hood Vents.....
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Unread 02-05-2012, 12:28 PM   #14
flhtquick
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just what temp do ya'll call overheating, this is mine just setting in traffic
pict0009.jpg  
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Unread 02-05-2012, 01:23 PM   #15
PurpleMachine
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That's what mine sits at when warm
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