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Unread 10-15-2014, 07:40 PM   #1
grandam88
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overheating issues, need opinions

2000 Xj, converted to 4x4, 6" lift 35" tires. 4.0

Had issues in the past with overheating, changed thermostat, all was fine from there.

Fast forward 8 months, went mudding, killed the alternator, drove it home anyway. On way home no signs of overheating but jeep suddenly dies. Assumed the 9 volts at the gauge was part of the cause until i realized engine was smoking. Turned key back on, all of a sudden I'm reading 260 on temp gauge. Where as when i turned it off, gauge registered 220.

I poked around and realized my water pump pulley had play, pried on it a bit and it started leaking. Replaced pump.

Test drove same day, noticed my gauge was reading 220 at highway speed, pulled over and all of a sudden gauge was at 250. popped hood, noticed coolant was only boiling over in the reservoir, not in the radiator. chalked this up to be the cap. Weak cap could cause this.(6 month old cap)

Removed thermostat(for testing purposes), replaced radiator cap. I have noticed the upper and lower radiator hose seem to have more pressure in them than I remember. In my opinion, if I am on the highway and temp goes above halfway, there is generally an issue. Fans do next to nothing at highway speeds so its all up the the 55mph wind to cool the radiator.

Engine seems to still be running warm, I replaced the radiator 6 months ago but this is really the last thing I can think of outside of blown head gasket. It DOES NOT overheat at idle or low speed, just highway. Another thought is maybe lower radiator hose is collapsing internally underload(on freeway)? Radiator is also clear of mud, but seems to be slightly swollen at plastic end caps.

If anyone has any ideas, I would appreciate it.

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Unread 10-15-2014, 08:30 PM   #2
skyway0018746
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Do you have a high flow water pump ? Replace hoses for sure if life is unknown . Loosing pressure will cause temp spikes . Read up on the 0331 head and do a leak down test along with a cooling system pressure test . Remove cap while running engine and see if there are bubbles coming out .
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Unread 10-15-2014, 09:25 PM   #3
CJ7-Tim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyway0018746 View Post
Remove cap while running engine and see if there are bubbles coming out .
Do Not remove the radiator cap when the cooling system is hot ! I think Skyway meant to say when cold, remove the radiator cap, and idle until fully warmed up, then check for bubbles.
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Unread 10-15-2014, 09:34 PM   #4
skyway0018746
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ7-Tim View Post

Do Not remove the radiator cap when the cooling system is hot ! I think Skyway meant to say when cold, remove the radiator cap, and idle until fully warmed up, then check for bubbles.
Yes don't remove while hot !
Bubbles in overflow tank could of been combustion gasses .
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Unread 10-15-2014, 09:49 PM   #5
grandam88
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Lol, if I remove a radiator cap when engine is hot i need to stay away from working on cars!

I am well aware of the 0331 head issue.. Thought i had this problem a while back. There are zero bubbles in my in my radiator on a cold start.

I researched a few things on other jeep forums, sounds like lower radiator hose is the next thing to replace. If i am fine at idle, then overheat on the freeway when more coolant is not only demanded by the engine but also being pulled by the water pump. Its a flow issue. Since my lower has no spring and is getting up there in age, its worth the 13 dollars to give it a try.

I do not have a high flow water pump.
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Unread 10-16-2014, 07:47 AM   #6
RVA65GS
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Are you losing coolant? Did you ever diagnose the smoke?

It's possible it overheated with the bad water pump.

Test the coolant for hydrocarbons if replacing the lower hose doesn't cure the problem.

Good luck.
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Unread 10-16-2014, 07:54 AM   #7
skyway0018746
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From your first post you sound like you know what your doing . Just good to add safety for those who don't know. With your coolant temp spikes a cracked head still possible even though you tested before . Crack might not open up till its up to operating temp and with more rpm at highway speeds it's pushing or saucking more coolant . Stock hoses have a spring in them , new hoses don't I always fish the spring in new hoses for added protection .
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Unread 10-17-2014, 12:10 PM   #8
grandam88
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lower radiator hose is replaced, still getting hot. I couldn't get it to over heat on a 4 mile test drive at around 70mph. It did go up to the 220 mark though.

The odd thing is there is no boiling in the radiator, just blows crazy bubbles and overflows from overflow tank. Cooling system still seems to have alot of pressure in it.

Also noticed my front right brake caliper is sticking, not sure if that's relevant or not to the situation. Also, out of nowhere, my electric fan broke on the test drive.

Smoke may have been from oil I spilled, or the stuck brakes. I also lost my rear drum brakes now. Its crazy how I have this jeep 4 years with minimal issues, convert to 4wd, go mudding three times, and now its falling apart. lol
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Unread 10-17-2014, 12:16 PM   #9
grandam88
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This is starting to look like a bad head gasket, the bubbles its blowing in the resevoir(more bubbles than water coming from radiator), plus high pressure in hoses may eqaul exhaust leak from head gasket?
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Unread 10-17-2014, 03:10 PM   #10
skyway0018746
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Likely, there is a chemical to put in coolant to see if there is emissions in it.
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Unread 10-17-2014, 04:13 PM   #11
RVA65GS
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Test the coolant for hydrocarbons. You'll need to get a combustion leak detector kit. The fluid will change color if there is combustion gasses in the coolant. I'm not sure if an auto part store would have one or you'd need to order one.

Also, check for small leaks around the water pump. It could be sucking air in and creating bubbles in the recovery tank.

Yes, a sticking caliper can cause it to run hot.

Good luck.
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Unread 10-17-2014, 08:48 PM   #12
skyway0018746
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Also if you know anyone with a emissions sniffer ( tail pipe emissions test ) stick it in the over flow tank .
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62 mm bored throttle body's fs - pm
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Unread 10-17-2014, 10:27 PM   #13
grandam88
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You can by the hydrocarbon tester at most autoparts stores. Its called a block tester.

Just out of curiosity, does anyone else here have hard lower and upper radiator hoses at running temp idle? If i recall, the lower is soft compared to the upper that comes out of the pump.
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